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Routes in Mt Tibrogargan for selected grade

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Showing all 5 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Caves Route Sector
8 Prometheus II Traverse
Trad 60m
8 Prometheus II

FA: Neill Lamb & Bill Peascod, 1956

Trad 43m
Desperation Wall
8 Prometheus I

A good way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as clean and classy as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery.

Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gully that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

  1. Scramble up the gully, left of Candy Mountain, then up right, into the prominent corner and follow the apron right towards Ross Miller Route until a ramp is met on the left. Scramble up this ramp to a corner belay below the first bolts of the Ross Miller Route.

  2. Climb the left leaning gully, to a prominent steelwood tree. Belay from here.

  3. Traverse right and diagonally up, following a line of small trees (slings) to a ledge, below a steep short gully. Belay from solid tree or gear.

  4. Move left and up (grade 2) or climb the gully directly to avoid rope drag, heading in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Find a suitable tree to break the pitch.

  5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney, with a cruxy move to top out into cave 4. This pitch can be done without rope. The most popular escape is the Cave 3 traverse (grade 2, now bolted, with anchor), on the left far side of the cave, to join Caves Route, or keep scrambling to the right and in the upper cave 4 to the start of Prometheus II (marked). Due to the weakness of the trees on this route, abseiling is not recommended.

FA: Ron Brooks & Neill Lamb, 1953

Trad 120m, 5
North Face
8 North Face Route

Start at the base of the central north face. A bush-bashing affair with some rock here and there.

  1. 35m - Almost straight up, zigzagging slightly to find the line of least resistance to a gully. Tree belay.

  2. 12m - Out of the gully to the right and up to the trees. From this stance, scramble unroped on sloping rock (Grade 1) dotted with trees to dense undergrowth. Bushbash straight up to a buttress and follow around to the right and up to a rock wall.

  3. 20m - Up a rock gully on the left to a tree belay. Emerge from the undergrowth to find a slab.

  4. 20m (crux) - Trend left up the rough slab to a tree belay. Scramble up left over easy rock and through undergrowth to North East shoulder.

Trad 87m, 4
South Face
8 South Face Route

Start by climbing to the top of Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated route, not recommended to pure rock artists of to the inexperienced route finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse rightward along the base of the rock face for approximately 20m. Due to the inevitable presence of loose rock, climbers must make absolutely sure that Upper Slider is quiet (e.g. deserted) in order to avoid bombarding climbers below.

  1. 18m - Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old peg to tree belay.

  2. 26m - Continue up with a slight rightward trend, past more pegs following the line of least resistance to a tree belay. Up into bush and rubble. At this point, you have two alternatives - 2a) Continue on up diagonally right, through undergrowth and mank to the south east corner and bushbash to the summit, or 2b) Trend left on Grade 1 rock until a yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner.

  3. 32m - From a tree belay, traverse left across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above yellow overhang.

  4. 24m - Straight up, then rock and vegetation to wall. Tree belay. From here, scramble left along base of wall for 35m across a small stretch of slab.

  5. 40m - From a tree belay, climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a tree belay on left side. Continue up gully into white corner.

  6. 47m - Up slabs adjacent to corner for about 10m, then traverse right for another 10m, then up to top.

Trad 190m

Showing all 5 routes.

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