Nodes in The Black Range

While technically a state park, and some crags may be on a bushland reserve or private property, the area is still managed by Parks Victoria, and is included in the Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan (GGLMP). So access notes for each crag have been updated accordingly by Crag Stewards Vic.

North facing single pitch climbing known for its good cracks around 18. While the new sport routes are average, rebolting of some older face routes should make them more appealing. NO new routes to be established (see Access Issues).

Bouldery start leads into sketchy dirty slab climbing. May see a few more punters with a good scrubbing and some "protection enhancers"

Diagonal crack left of HFAM.

Direct up wall between WSTS and AAA. Small edges but no tree.

Right angled corner.

Up rounded arête keeping the bolts to your left. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Fantastic little climb, with plenty of small to medium gear. Follow the most obvious crack line on wall. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. Climb seeps water when wet.

Up small crack system, with a bolt protecting the crux. Topping out is currently mossy, but will clean up over time. Fixed hangers to belay from about five metres back from top.

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

3m right of 'DIBEAPCP'[12978997].

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Start as for Snapper Crack. Step L up past 2FH and wires

"An exciting climb which is guaranteed to leave your forearms screaming. It takes the right leading crack about 15m right of the descent gully. Up the slab and into the crack. Jam your way to stance under roof, then finish up pumpy wall past fixed pegs." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). Home of an active bee hive as of May 2020.

"Varied and interesting climbing on rock that is reminiscent of Arapiles. Start 3m right of Snapper Crack. Up the slab, then up an awkward seam. Continue diagonally across and up wall till a couple of hard moves bring the overlap to hand. Finish up tiring wall." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

3m R of What's the Verdict. Climb the line direct past 2FH & trad gear

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Crack with a small cave at its base.

Just R of Please be Seated up past 2 FH

Just L of Rumpole up past 2 FH to lower off under tumble of boulders which are surprisingly stable

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Start at base of Ipso Facto then head L & up past 2 FH to DRB lower off.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Start on undercut arete 3m L of Slanderous Discourse. 4 FH to DUB abseil

Starts just left of Slanderous Discourse. Up past RB & wires to double UB abseil

Start up the attractive sickle-shaped crack just left of the yucky chimney descent, follow holds left at the break to a thin seam (microwires); then a desperate move back R to finish straight up. If you keep stepping L to finish up arete, it's a reasonable 22.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"The crack and unlikely bulge immediately right of GBH. The name says it all." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs).

PS nobody these days can explain how "the name says it all".

4m left of Lichen Life. 4FH

2m left of 'Found in a Compromising Position'. Fairly easy ground up crack to high first bolt, which can be protected with medium wires if you are feeling mortal. Up delicate face, top out left after last bolt.

Start 5 left of Habeus Corpus. Straight up past 5FHs.

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This superb climb tackles the attractive orange rock passing three bolts, immediately right of Bagatelle. Unfortunately the second bolt is poorly positioned and might be preferable to pre-clip it with a sling before starting." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

2m L of The Willows Milkbar. 3 RB's & small to medium wires.

"The wall 4m left of Mr Meaner has a couple of lines with common start. Move left into curving flake and turn the bulge at its left end." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). After moving left from 'Murder One', this route manages to stay independent of its neighbour, despite appearances.

"This companion route to The Willows Milkbar offers interesting climbing up the thin right leaning seam before finishing with an amusing mantle over a small overhang."

"This alluring arete is a committing lead and is a popular top rope problem. Don't forget your RP's. Up the wall and arête 5m left of Short Term." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs).

The first gear is reached at about 4m, consisting of crappy RPs and a tiny crack where you can finally use those cams you bought for aid climbing. Climb another 4m or so above this before reaching your next gear. Alternatively, enjoy the route on top rope and walk away.

"The mean looking, black crackless corner, starting from the terrace." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Bolts removed by FA.

"What on earth has this name Pudgy got to do with legal stuff is anyone's guess. Desperately thin wall climbing which is also a wee bit committing up high. Up the wall with the ring bolt, 5m left of Caveat Emptor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This tricky face climb was originally led by Richard Smith without the bolt. It was placed shortly after by Louise Shepard who was unaware of Smithy's ascent. The arete just left of Barbed Tongue." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Initialed faintly. Start at small corner with the twin cracks left of Red Tape. Climb corner to triangular roof and continue up right line to top.

"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Squirm up the old fashioned crack and chimney. Initialed"

"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box (just near an active beehive at ground level - as of May 2020). Follow the 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red/yellow BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

2m Left of BRD 6FH to DRB lower off.

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires to DRB lower off.

"A surprisingly technical tips crack. The thin, overhanging crack 5m left of Prosecutor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs).

"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

As for Persona Non Grata but blast straight on up blunt arête past 3 more FHs to DRB lower off.

You may wish to take some small wires to protect the moves after the second bolt.

Start is 2m left of Decree Nisi. Up short crack to bulge onto bolt. Easier face climbing above.

Faintly initialed. Nice corner with tree near the top. Clean climbing with a mixture of bridging and face climbing.

Contrived divergence from Decree Nisi. At the tree, climb the off-width crack directly throught the small roof, religiously avoiding the obvious line to the left.

Variant start to Decree Nisi which starts 5m right. Onto flat top the follow lines curving left into Decree Nisi.

Starts as for Unfit to Stand. Up for 5m then follow right flake. Keep going right then up wall past bolt. Beware of dangerous block.

Start up the seam in the arête left of GP. Protects with RPs. Step left and up over bulge to Good gear and up to terrace. Finish as for GP.

Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top.

Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected.

Start up CL head 3m right at ledge to 1st SS glue in carrot. Straight up past 2 more SS glue in carrots to DRB lower off.

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

Re-bolted by Glenn June 2014. Now 5 RB's to DUB lower off. Follow featured wall up to high cave. Clipped bolt from safety of cave, take a deep breath, step left and delicately launch up black wall through crux.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top.

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

Start as for Uno Flatu past overhang joining ToJ at finger crack

Between OS & MI the arête the whole way. 3FH. Medium SLCD's below last FH

Start as for Malicious Intent and follow the corner until the overhang. Traverse left to gain the overhanging arête and follow the thin crack to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

To help protect rock art in the cave, when starting the route it is requested that you avoid the black overhung offwidth crack, and instead use the easy broken handcrack an arm span to the left (I think we can be pretty sure that this is the way that everyone has climbed this route since the beginning of time, and this start doesn't need to be written up as a different route).

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

To protect rock art, it is requested that the first pitch of this route not be climbed. The second pitch can still be climbed (easily traverse in from 'Malicious Intent'), and the description from the 2001 Grampians Guidebook remains accurate: "Up the bulging arete past a really shitty bolt up high". 2 carrots.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

From the right side of the cave, hurl yourself at the undercut line which is initialled. Continued up the line, hand traversing left beneath a roof near the top the last part is a tad reachy. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

As for Legal Aid but traverse right past a bolt.

Stick-clip first bolt. In its upper half this route follows the left side of a large pod/cave feature, and the crux is pulling out of the top cave.

Start a few metres right of Legal Aid and chin out to the bolt. Around and up easily to a ledge and another bolt. Up into the scoop, then move back right to clip a new ringbolt, then onto the slab passing another bolt. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

An easier finish is to mantle out of the upper cave early, to clip the bolt on "The Hanging Slab" (about grade 23).

There is another route that goes up the right side of the large pod, passing a historical mish-mash of fixed gear. It seems that little is known about this route.

Requires tube chooks or some other form of large protection. Tackles the sickening cleft not far right of the camping cave. Up chimney, then up the overhanging off-width via laybacking and the occasional face hold. (The chockstones described in the Mentz/Tempest guide are no longer present.)

Black Ian's Rocks has seen some controversy and inappropriate development in recent years. It contains well known Cultural Values (site of CV23), in particularly in the cave at the RH end (these routes are Closed). Other new routes that may have impacted on nearby Cultural Heritage values have been removed. There is to be absolutely no more development here.

Start 5 metres right of Power Without Glory at the thin line above the undercut start. Chin the roof on good jugs, then step right and up into thin line to the cave. Move up the right and onto the arête (dubious protection). Finish up short wall. It's possible to traverse a further 2 metres right before heading up, but this is probably trickier. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)