Routes as trad in North-West Serra Range

50m left of descent is a wall with two corners. Shallow corner in arête left of chimney and right of another corner.

From block 10m left of Moonshine and on orange wall below overhangs, traverse left to arête and climb it.

Up middle of wall 13m left of Solarplexed and 36m right of Slip, Slop, Slap. Up right over conglomerate bulge, passing right of bulges. Veer back left and up steeply.

Excellent, technical climb; possibly best on cliff. First of two prominent cracks on first wall 40m left of Soul’s Midnight and 22m right of Liquid Sun-shine. Starts as finger-crack.

Stepped and roofed corner 50m left of LS (Didn’t find a climb with these initials. Ed.). Pass right of first roof and left of second one.

Steep and fierce. Up first (of a pair) V-corner on orange wall 7m left of The Long March, then left under overhang and up wall steeply.

From blade of rock against face 25m left of Pandora’s Box, climb arête on left of wall, then crack.

Start 5m right of The Last Crusade at blade of rock supporting cliff. Up to block that forms short right-facing bottomless corner. Over and up.

Up middle of clean wall 4m right of Blowfly, keeping left of weaknesses at top.

Start: East (left facing the cliff) of 'Green Gap Pinnacle' is a cliff with a long arete forming it\\'s left edge.

1. 50m (15) The arete is gained from the left and followed

2. 50m (15) 'Arete'

3. 50m (15) Climb on the right side of steep upper section, then regain the arete by a crack and follow it again.

Good climbing but hard to find your way as the line is very subtle - a big adventure!

Start: Starts about 10m up the gully where the angle eases and a crack/corner system starts on the right wall (facing the cliff).

1. 45m (17) Climb a series of cracks and corners to ledge. Tend up and rightwards (tricky thin slabbing in some sections) up wall to belay in sloping 10m long corner crack with some fixed nuts and a very old big (what used to be red) sling with some small orange roofes above and right and small ledge above and left.

2. 40m (15) up corner then step left onto small ledge. Up and right a little to arete. Up to large corner with attractive orange corner just left of middle and small ledge right of this. Belay near attractive orange corner near center of large corner.

3. 50m (15) Up attractive corner crack then move left and up wall on good horizontal breaks to large ledge (much vegetation!). Either break the belay here or continue up to top by left (corner) or right wall. Belay on summit.

then head left up attractive crack

Start: Complete P1 of \\

1. -m (-) As per 'Sweet Sixteen'

2. 30m (22) Straight up, then traverse right into left facing corner. Traverse led (hard) on lip of overhang to right facing corner. Up this then step right to ledge

3. 50m (15) Up steep face on good holds, easing (this pitch is prominent from the ground).

4. 10m (-) Up easily

Classic outing.

Start: start below the only real line on the wall, 100m left of the right arete (down climb)

1. -m (-) Climb wall to crack through overhang and up flake-crack. Exit right.

2. 24m (-) Step down and traverse right to crack. Up to blocks.

3. 45m (-) Go right 3m, up 10m then veer up left for 28m. Left slab to small tree.

4. 44m (-) Up left to traverse left. Go up from blocks to overhang. Traverse left to big line and up on to left wall.

5. 36m (-) On to left arete of face. Veer up left past big dead tree, then climb corner on left to overhangs. Traverse right and go up to exit right to second dead tree.

6. 44m (-) Crack to cully. Leave it when cracks lead up right wall.

Start: From the small tree 6m up the right arete.

1. -m (-) go left from the ledge, up 6m, back right and up corner through blocks.

2. 36m (-) Up past bush on right, traverse left on to side of arete, diagonally across steep slab and up to small pinnacle.

3. 42m (-) Walk off pinnacle and scramble up until above trees

4. 42m (-) Left into V-gully and traverse on to side of arete. Up face to sloping ledge.

5. 42m (-) Up

The arete and wall on the right end of the cliff above the col behind green gap pinnacle. Start about 40m down and west of the col.

In middle of main orange wall. Up bulges over apparently detached block and sharp flake-crack to V-mantel, then up.

Up corner left of I Can Smell Something Burning, veering right.

Start 4m left of I Can Smell Something Burning at twin-trunked tree. Up twin cracks, bulges, then traverse right to finish up I Can Smell Something Burning.

Left side of black streak at left end of cliff. Right under overhangs and up weakness.

Flake and shallow corner 4m right of Black Thunder.

25m right of Act Of Faith, a cairned crack leads to a chimney-gully.

Shallow crack, groove, face (one BR) right of Literary Lunch.

Line 2m right of Give Me a Break, which curves up left side of face.

Prominent, steep, right-facing corner right of The Secret.

Right of Sugar Tax is an attractive slabby grey wall. Stuffed Kiwi takes diagonal from left to right on this.

Quite good. Cairned crack 4m right of Fallen Angels.

Very thin and sustained face climbing protected only by small wires. Climb slabby black wall just right of Stuffed Kiwi by vague, left facing corner-seam at half-height (about a third of the way along from left end of this wall). Move a little right to finish.

Middle weakness of Sugar Tax wall, starting 2m right of In A Daze For Days. Pass left of bulge 2½m right of triangular block on Sugar Tax. Up past slot. Finish up weakness in middle of wall.

Bulging slabby seam 1½m right of Mirror Man. Finish up right weakness

Right of The Soul Cages is the descent gully. Predatory Pussy is 4m right of this, the left one of two cracks.

Loose. 30m down and round right of Predatory Pussy is a prominent crack on right wall of a recess (a bit like Boomer at Mount Arapiles). Cairned. Climb slabby overlap to ledge. Up crack.

The first section of cliff (the Portiere) rises from the creek-bed. The Edge starts 10m left of the cliff's right end. Right of two curving cracks. Move left through break.

2m left of The Edge, go straight up and through break on right of overhang.

Shallow, left-facing corner 15m left of Peripheral Vision. One BR.

(There are 2 carrots left of this line. Route info unknown.)

Right-facing flake 2m left of Middle of the Road. Left at overhang, up bulge.

Line 5m left of hanging gully. One BR.

Shallow, left-facing corner left of Wicked Game.

Bold. Wall 3m right of Depression Session.

Crack 4m left of Depression Session.

Crack 5m left of 'Promises in Paradise', up smooth rock and left of high overhang.

Committing start. Wall between Dainty Ape and State Of The Art.

Right one of two lines 3m left of Dainty Ape.

Start as for 'State of the Art' and climb left line. Go left of bulge and finish up notch.

Major left-leaning overhung corner left of Jugs Away. Over apex and up crack.

Line on left side of curved, recessed wall left of Daggy Dance.

Wall just left of Sporting Gesture.

Left-leaning diagonal 10m left of Daggy Dance.

Climb crack just right of cave on first wall up from the Portiere. Left to line in main wall. Left and up corner.

Left-leaning line on next wall up left of the Portiere.

Shallow corner 10m left of Quiet Freedom. Face above overlap.

Crack 8m left of Cerveza And Snaggel and just right of little gully. Crack thins and veers right.

Start up Proboscis Prevails. Left and climb thin line (BR).

Corner-crack in gully opposite Quiet Freedom buttress.

Black slabby wall at start of face left of Old World, New World. Two BRs.

Diagonal on slabby wall 10m left of Black Magic.

Classic. Middle of Cream Wall. Four BRs.

Another classic. Sustained. Wall left of Love At First Bight (two BRs). Hard step right to BR on Love at First Bight. Veer up left.

Tricky start, then easier, then steep wall on left side of Cream Wall.

(BR left of Miracle Mile. Possibly for this climb?)

Diagonal left of middle of Recess Wall (next cliff left of Cream Wall), offering superb Mount Rosea-style climbing. Slab (BR) to horizontal break, then line through two bulges (two PRs). Corner, then straight up.

Last main crack, 20m right of Beady Yellow Eyes. Up (BR) to crack. Crack. Finish left.

From major crack 10m right of Icy Red (on Feather Wedge Wall), climb wall to overlap. Into crack. Finish right

Good face-climbing. From 1m right of Icy Red (Featherwedge Wall), up (two BRs). Right and up crack until it ends. Face, then bulge (BR). Finish just right of major crack.

Right one of twin lines left of middle of uppermost cliff (except for Discarded Dreams area).

Line left of Icy Red.

Flake right of crack with tree at left end of uppermost cliff in area - Featherwedge Wall. Face to over-hang. Finish up right-leading ramp.

Left leaning hanging flake at right end of front of Discarded Dreams buttress, just left of broken corner.

At the head of the main gully is a prominent block on the ridge between the creek-beds. Reach this by traversing from near the upper end of the cliffs and round to wall on north side. Discarded Dreams is the line of brown flakes on grey rock left of the orange wall.

Climb the corner crack forming the left boundary of the wall.

Start: Near the left end of the cliff is a recessed wall above a ledge about 15m off the ground.

Good climbing on sound rock

Start: The corner right of 'Black Madonna'

Climb to overhang and up crack above.

Start: Starts a few meters right of 'Never Never' at a thin crack beside a large tree.

Start: On the left of 'Tjuringa' Buttress is a corner crack. This climbs it.

1. 35m (15) Up the corner crack, finishing up chimney.

2. 35m (15) Crux. Chimney to top of Chock stones. Left on to wall below overhand and over it.

Starts about 4-5m left of Rainbow Serpent on the left side of an orange scoop.

P1 (35m, 23): Move left past first bolt onto front of the buttress then up past another bolt to easier ground. Up to the roof and follow the line awkwardly around the left edge. Belay in the line at a reasonable ledge.

P2 (30m, 17): The crack up centre of the buttress, as for Morning Glory.

While the first pitch is worthwhile, the second pitch offers consistently excellent climbing right on the arete which is beautiful compact grey stone.

Start: on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress below orange roof.

1. 32m (20) steep technical finger crack climbing up to and right of orange roof to steep powerful bridging, then up left past flake to ledge. Up wall past more bolts tending left after about 15m to belay on ledge. Take a bunch of wires, (BD) cams #0.3 to #.75, one #2 and lots of (about 18) quickdraws.

2. 30m (22) swing up onto left side of arete and up delicate grey wall to orange steepness. Powerful thin moves lead to more moderate but delicate and super enjoyable arete that seems never to finish! Generally regarded as 3 stars by everyone who's done it so far. James McIntosh commented "it's the best arete in the Grampians".

pitch 2 left hand variant. From belay, head up to third bolt. Traverse up and left to morning glory's overlap, through this and up fantastic vertical crack & face trending R to join P2 at the belay. Great climbing, fantastic rock. ~grade 18.

A strong (crack) line from half height but needs a direct start to be its best. The originally climbed entered via the start of 'Quinkan' followed by a traverse left, and a direct start (MGDS) was finally added some 30 years later!

Start: On the right side of 'Tjuringa' buttress is a big corner. This (and Quinkan) start up this.

1. 20m (16) Up corner to small ledge.

2. 52m (18) Traverse left to line.

3. 45m (17) Up the crack in the middle of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

Start: In the big corner on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

1. 35m (17) At bushes go left and up wall, then back to corner and up to tree.

2. 35m (17) Chimney to top. Scramble (roped) to anchor above 'Rainbow Serpent'.

Start: Superb clean wall between 'Quinkan' and 'Bunjil'. Seriously low on good gear however.

Good moves but some suss rock and spaced mediocre pro detract.

Start: Thin crack about 12m right of 'Quinkan'

1. 40m (16) Step right, then left on to bulge. Up crack line using the wall to the left when needed. Belay at bleached ledge.

2. 40m (17) Up twin lines, right right at overhang and finish up wall. Belay on ledge. Move left (facing the cliff) to rap off "Rainbow Serpent"'s anchor. Suggest stay roped up for this!

Start: Just right of 'Bunjil' is a bulge.

1. 40m (15) Climb the bulge, veer left up wall to left facing corner. Up left wall to ledge above corner.

2. 20m (15) Up the beautiful wall

3. 50m (15) Up the crack and up.

Start: Wall 3m right of big tree near 'Walunda'

1. 10m (20) Climb the wall then bulge, up right to ledge.

2. 35m (20) Up wall to ledge below smoother rock.

3. 35m (20) Up crack in headwall and on.

Start: From between 'Burnum Burnum' and 'Murinbungo' climb 5m to rounded blocks.

1. 25m (18) Left for 6m on lip of bulge, then up to belay on 'Burnum Burnum'.

2. 30m (18) Diagionally right, then up to crack through overhang just left of arete and so to ledge on arete.

3. 30m (18) Left and up wall