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Description
Overhung
Slab
Vertical
Brittle when wet
Wet in rain
A brilliant boulder for easier grade climbers. Maybe the best easier block in the Venus Baths area. Has an easy face around the front to warm up on and then a nice scoop on the left side. It is also known as the 'Fishbowl Boulder', thus the oceanic problem names. There is some suspicious rock on the far left, but it's out of the way of the more popular problems. The boulder is right on a popular tourist track so be aware of walkers and don't put them at any risk, scrub off chalk & tick marks, and be prepared for 10year old kids to walk past and ask if you have ever fallen... There has been graffiti on the rock, but Parks and some locals scrubbed it off as best they could. Feel free to continue the cleaning!
Access issues inherited from Grampians
Designated
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
Approach
Ethic inherited from Grampians
New route potential
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
History
This boulder was formed through a long diagenisis process. The sand was deposited in a medium energy environment, hundreds of millions of years ago. Since then, heat and pressure has faintly metamorphosed the sedimentary rock, allowing the quartz mineral in the sand grains to grow and interlock forming a stronger 'Quartz Aranite'. This rock sat dormant for millenia before being released from its place in the bedrock, and rolling into its current position. Here it waited, sitting patiently as millenia past. Finally, some gumbies with a pair of sticky rubber shoes and bag of chalk stumble through the forest and find it. They form an immediate connection. The gumbies visited frequently, and with each visit they would caress the various features of the rock, and clean it of any dirt any grime. Eventually though, the gumbies ran out of features to caress and dirt to clean, and visits became more infrequent. However, the rock enjoyed the attention and wanted to be touched and caressed more, so it started an online dating app for rocks to meet climbers via a website called the crag. Now it gets the attention it needs and it is a happy rock.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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