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Description

The lesser of the two massive blocks that make up the twin Red Rock Pinnacles.

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

When standing at the road, this is the left of the two pinnacles, and the first one reached on the walk in.

Descent notes

There is no walk down descent, you need to rap from one of the numerous lower-offs on the sport routes (may require a sketchy downclimb to the lip of the cliff)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between the North & South Pinnacles. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 2003

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

A much better way onto the Think You Can Dance arete via the orange face around right. Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Strike The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

FA: Neil Monteith

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith Tim Lee, 2003

The rising line of bulges and ring bolts. Very shady!

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Set by adam demmert

FA: Kent Paterson, 2017

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

On the north west corner of the pinnacle is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

FFA: adam demmert, 2007

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

4m Left of Grey Matter. Straight up to the top. First move is the crux. The rest of the climb is grade 12 up fragile featured wall. Pull over the right side of the red overhang.

FA: Lewis Clarey & Abdul Rahman, 5 Dec 2014

Activity

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