Routes as boulder in Binalong

The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade.

Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a much harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam.

Up the right hand side of the boulder through 'HIV??' and then traverse left on slopers with good spotters to finish up 'Deep Freeze'. In true internet tradition, someone flapped in and crapped all over this one!

A reasonably difficult leftways-leaning crack that won't take jams all the way. Hard start, quite technical. Difficulty depends on whether you can manage a high step for the first move. Otherwise the feet are atrocious!

Crack gets the majority of the run-off after rain so it'll probably need gardening if you want to jump on this. Hard moves up an insecure crack. Top currently needs a bit of cleaning up.

I looked, and behold, a pale rock. Straddled upon it...

Compression moves up a blunt arete to top out at jugs over a very airy landing. This one is an absolute cracker - requires great body tension, technical moves on tenuous holds and good concentration, not to mention good skin! The full line will involve some very heady moves, particularly if done 'pure' without the assistance of the boulder to the left.

There was some question before it was attempted whether it would even be possible given the apparent spacing of the holds. It definitely goes, but it sure ain't easy.

A shorter warm-up for the area, head straight up the off-widthy crack to a low topout.

Straight up the front of the boulder using compression slaps.

Sit start in the widening crack at the bottom of the short boulder in the middle of the wall. Slap your way up the crack, then on to the front of the boulder and up. Can either jump off the low platform, or continue up and top out as per topo line.

An unfortunate chimney start owing to a lack of holds bar two well-spaced pockets that won't get you anywhere. From there, a traverse across the face on a rail will get you to safety. It's not the lowest climb around though... A few deep breaths on all counts when this was sent.

The chimney start. Get right inside and go up to the top without using any of the juggy footers around. Actually a bit of a lark.

On the boulder just to the right of 'I Rolled a 4'. From a sit, head up the arete using the crack to establish yourself.

Eliminate - as for 'Crack Fiend' but stick to the arete and avoid the crack.

A rising traverse of the boulder from the end, out through the roof on the left side of the boulder and up. Might take a bit to clean up properly.

Straight up through the body of the boulder. Bit of a downhill landing.

Very morphological. Grading is honesty based, somewhere between V0 and V3 depending on your size. Sit start under the roof, lock off with your right hand in the crack then chuck a big move out left to a glory jug. Not terribly wonderful, to be honest.

Not wonderful. Enough holds to get up, use it as a warmup. The boulder to the left of the tombstones facing up the hill.

Up from a needless sit start staying right of the crack line and topping out. Stay away from flake to the right, it could break.

Near to the tombstones themselves (up and right when looking up the hill). From a sit start, huck a biiiig move to the top.

Up through thin feet and hands to a juggy topout.

Start for 'Resouled' then top out right.

Walk up the boulder.

Sit-start matched on a flat depression. Crank out right through a few moves using a heel hook high up to get you onto a small incut and sidepull, then up and over.

Sit start at the left end of the boulder with poor feet. Use very poor sloper holds to establish a heel hook, then head out right, through a difficult move which will require you to cut feet. The rock just below the traverse is out.

Project - lowball bumdrag, but it's undercut, has some friable holds (it's going to get harder) and good luck with your feet. Something to warm up or play around on.

Straight up the front of the boulder, through the pocket and out. Easy.

Standing at 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket, yawn, check the time, pepper your neighbour's lawn with his clover, then trend slightly left through past some big pockets and wish you were living elsewhere.

Quite nice. Sit start using a combination of sidepulls or a very shallow incut crack. Crank up to a heel hook position using a nice sidepull, lock off, pray to Jesus, then slap out very far right to a glory pocket from an insecure position, then up.

From the same start as 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket and vague pinch and get your feet set. A fair sized move out to a small incut sidepull, then up using friction and mantle on good holds.

V1 or V2, just a poor landing. Up through some poor scoops and friction moves.

Up through an easy crack, likely to be V0.

Sit start and up. Watch out for the sidecling, it might go!

Sit start and up from crimps to a rail, then a high step and top out.

Hard low sit start then up to slopey top out.

Sit start on first two juggy side pulls then left along the arete and top out same as for Ebola Boulder.

Up the arete from a stand. Hold that left sidecling!

Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it.

Sit start. Some good holds but it's still tricky getting off the ground with the poor feet available. You can easily make this harder but if you do it right it should be a 0. One of a group of good warmups for the harder stuff down the hill.

Right side of the 'Mossy' boulder past the bush - watch out when you top out! Sit start and up.

Sit start. Up through a flake (photo's already old, some of the flake got destroyed) then top out. Another warmup. Other side of the boulder from 'Mossy Ferguson'.

Up past a nice flake from a sit start. Another warmup.

This climb shed more holds than you'd think possible. Up from a fairly horizontal position (sit start) using some ankle strength to get you to the top. Pretty contrived, big rock in the way.

Up from the underclings and jugs and head left to top out (ideally, don't walk out onto the slab on the far left).

Straight up from underclings. Contrived, because there's jugs just above...

Same start as 'The Breakdance Kid' on the sharp juggy sidepull, but instead moving left from the start to a chunk of removed rock that has obviously come off. From there you finish up 'Undercling and up' on whatever holds are left of the climb.

Up through a now busted flake on some very balancy and difficult moves. There's a small rail on your left and the feet suck. Be careful of the flake, the rest may still tear away and it's a very big chunk of rock that could hurt you or your spotter. Watch how you lever against it - preferably not straight out from the rock.

Stand start to the left of The Breakdance kid with R hand on the good crimp sidepull. Climb up and slightly to the left with disco moves then topout.

Sit Start as per Kegless Lizard then traverse to the left through the pinch and the jug used for Prison Snake. Continue traversing through the crimpy crux and topout up Disco Boogie Time. The crimp ledge/rail above and to the left of the Prison Snake jug is out. Most likely v5-v6.

Sit start on side pull and crimp. Straight Up.

Sit start jug on the right/high side of the boulder. Pull onto slab up and over.

Couple metres away from 'The Breakdance Kid' boulder. A very surprising little sit start that looks dead easy but requires some technical heel hooking and is pretty bodymorphic and hippy. Take whatever grade it feels like because it'll vary depending on your size.

Rubbish. Sit start on ok holds. Done with a dynamic move to the rim then easily over.

Sit start. Up and over.

Sit start. Left hand on sloper or high, right hand in the pocket. Feet are poor.

Sit start. Up and over!

Sit start left side arete.

Sit start using the rail.

Sit start and move left to the rail.

Sit start, right hand arete, up and over with hands either side.

Over the hill from the little starting area of boulders. Will require a fair bit of cleaning.

Just to the right when looking uphill of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder. Big dirt mounds on the underside indicative of birds? Looks good but need to check whether these actually are nests.

Up the right side of the boulder through good holds but over a poor landing. The mantel is a bit sketchy, but should be better once it cleans up a bit more.

Sit start. Your choice of a half-pad crimp, off-angle shallow pocket or a mono for your hands. Up to a jug then top out. Stand a lot easier, V2ish.

Up the arete. Some tenuous moves to get around the corner on solid sidepulls. One of the few climbs that didn't have an exploding hold on the day...

Tenuous feet. Sit start and head up, then traverse right to top out. Left heel hook optional. Hold broke during FA so possibly a little harder.

Sit start and over.

Sit start and follow the crack.

Sit start and traverse left.

Sit start.

Up the crack. Bit of a poor landing if you have difficulty topping out.

Start up the crack then trend left. Slightly vaguer holds.

Stand start on a reasonable size pocket for your right hand and a smaller pocket or crimp for your left. High step if you can for an easier start on the incut/remains of the flake. Head up for a good incut rail then left and done.

Really the direct version. Straight up on good, but quite spaced holds.

Sit start the boulder from underclings and up. Pretty hard.

Straight up through insecure sidepulls and slopers. Techy. The rock on this boulder is a lot more polished than others nearby.

Up the flat side of the boulder from a sit start. Pretty nice. Still needs some cleaning up, a bit mossy up top.

Sit start (stand V1) and up, topping out either left or right.

Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start with your feet as low as possible using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. danger - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it.

Straight up on the largest holds for Buddeh rather than left.

Sit start slightly right of Buddeh and up.

Start on the underclings for Buddeh and move right to the sloper and up through the crimps.

A hardish dyno. FA unknown at this stage . Will add more details when known/tried. Topo line may be incorrect.

Traverse the front side of the boulder and up, on good holds.

Bit of an eliminate. Follow vague holds up, then bail off left.

Left hand variant to 'Limpy McCrippleton'. Boulder up and over the sloper rail with a few deadpoint moves and some very interesting footing. This is your first point for gear. Bring some mats or a spotter if you don't want to go rolling down the hill. Up and through the weakness to the top.

A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6.

The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sitting on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling.

Sit start to the left of the boulder underneath Limpy using the lowest rails possible (see topo). Very contrived, but the hardest way to get up the boulder (so far); extremely hard moves to start using underclings. Can be finished up Limpy (harder) or Hasbeen Army (still bloody hard). Might be 10 either way? Topout if you wish, it's your funeral if you fall.

Possibly one grade harder than Limpy according to the FA. Follow the crack up and through the rest of Limpy.

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Sit start from underneath the boulder. Suits taller people well. Throw from the rail to start and up without dabbing (!), then into a cruxy move to latch two sidepulls and dyno to a jug. FA was done with a dyno, easier with a heel hook but possibly still 6?

Sit start and up the left side with big jugs to help you.

Chop this! Up from a sit along the right side through slopers. Could be extended through the cave for a fun variant, if you don't mind the sheep poo.

Burly sit start off opposing holds using a reasonable left hand rail and a nasty right hand crimp. Gotta look hard for them feet. Not a good warmup! But lowball at least. This could be your hardest V1 send ever !

Standing start, head up and slightly right. High step the small incut and it's a bit easier.

An awesome, sequency and technical climb up through some good holds to a scoop, pinch and crimp with the option of a very sharp sidecling to help you through. A good little number. Was going to be Paddy's first first ascent here, but he didn't have enough gas left.

Up the left side of the boulder when looking uphill. Not hard, but not bad either.