A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6.
The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sitting on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling.
4 Aug 2012 | First ascent:
David Nott FA of the boulder problem |
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9 Sep 2012 | First ascent:
Ian Phillips FA of the full line |
V6 | Assigned grade |
★★★private |
NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.
NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.
KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.
Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.
Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.
Overall quality 83 from 1 ratings.
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