The Stables



Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

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Drive to the end of Schofield Pde, Pennant Hills.

Park near sign, walk through gate for 100m to a track on the left, now signposted as "Berowra Valley National Park Schofield Fire Trail". Follow this for approximately 200m till it heads right towards the oval. Instead of heading right go more or less straight ahead for 50m, turn left at a rock cairn and follow more cairns through scrub to top of little rocky section. Zig down this section till you arrive on the top of a cliff, walk right to a gully. Head down this and you come out onto Cave Wall. There are numerous other ways of getting here this just seems to be the easiest.

Ethic inherited from The Stables

These areas are in Berowra Valley National Park, so dogs, fires, rubbish, rock and vegetation damage and other activities prohibited under the Act are forbidden.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Straight up featured wall, 3RB's, walk off

Start: In access gully.

FA: rod wills, 2007

The steep proud line, punchy climbing through nice rock, starting in the slot under the roof from the ground, Do not use rock cairn, begins by climbing the balancy short slab and out first rooflet.

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2007

Start as for Jazz Maverick and throw out right to join Approaching Showers an awesome link up.

The line of rings 3m right of 'Jazz Maverick'

Moving up the obvious start into the blocky flake feature, with a big move up left to continue following the leftward rising rail joining the finish of Project 1 through the runnel feature, no lower offs, top out and walk off boulder to finish for full value and walk back down to belay area or back clean from last ring. Caution if topping out, easy climbing but runout. Take care when cleaning.

Start 2m left of 'Mufasta'. Climb up into some burley crimps through to some easier climbing to finish on two lower offs.

Maint: Tim Mayer

FA: Jarred Jordan, 2021

Start up Mufasta for two bolts, and then traverse left finishing up 'Project 2'

FFA: Timothy Mayer, 18 Jul 2021

Up to sharp arête tending left at top. 3 U's to lower offs.

FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002

A balancy start to a pumpy finish up the left feature. 3 U's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw

Straight up the overhanging arête. 1FH, 2U's to lower offs.

FA: Hawkshaw

Obvious corner crack left side of wall, enjoyable jamming, top out to right to avoid dirty exit

FA: Greg Hislop & Kylie Barrett

Tending left up juggy face, 3 Rbs to lower offs.

Start: 4m right of CAV.

FA: rod wills, 2007

Up short orange face to jugs, 3Rbs to lower offs.

Start: Shared start to TPOG, tending right at first bolt

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007

Up slab onto orange face topping out over the buldge. 3 RB's to lower offs.

FA: Rod Wills, 2005

A good climb up the prominent flake in middle of wall. 3 U's to lower offs.

FA: Andrew Morrison

The direct start to 'Yoink'. Hard fun moves up to meet 'Yoink' at second bolt.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw

Easy moves on pockets leads to a big move past bolt to break. Finish up wall. 2U's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2002

Start 1m R of Bunsen Honeydew. Up nice arête. A little contrived, so try and avoid BH and the tree, otherwise take off 4 grades

FA: Tim Mayer, 8 Jul 2017

An unspeakably wretched enterprise consisting of what look like bashed in non-glued stainless carrots 0.5m apart a bit right of 'Bunsen Honeydew'. Practice? Madness? Boredom? To quote the late John Ewbank: "urinate at the base of it and continue".

Mantel above the first bolt then up the crack to lower offs.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 20 Feb 2020

FFA: Chanté Fisk & Brendon Flanagan, 6 Dec 2020

Step up onto boulder in middle of wall and follow line of rings to the top. 3 RBs to lower offs.

FA: Mark Page, 2005

Start 3m R of DF at hard bouldery moves. Nice jump move, then traverse up and L passing 3 RBs.

FA: Tim Mayer, 24 Jun 2017

As for Psychopath for the first 2 RBs, then break out R passing another on some nice bouldery moves.

FFA: Tim Mayer, 11 May 2019

Thin crimpy slabby goodness. Head up slab to thin move above scoop. 2 UB's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

3 metres right of CSOC. Up over bulge to slab. 3 Rings to lower offs.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Up over bulge following arete to finish on shared lower offs. 3 Rings to lower offs.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Straight up pockets tending left at final bolt and thin move. 4 FH's to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw

2m rt of SFSG

Start: Follow pockets behind tree, 3RB's to lower offs.

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007

2m rt of 40 Lashes

Start: Straight up juggy face tending left at the top, 3Rb's to lower offs.

FA: Rod wills, 2007

Up and out through roof of cave, clipping second ring before heading to lip to avoid grounder. 4 RB's & U's to lower offs.

FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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