Routes in The Gold Mine for selected grade

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt.

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Really steep climbing on excellent rock - once you get past the first few metres. Either sketch up the brittle start or batman up to first bolt (add a star if you do this!). Hard move at first bolt involving slopers and a tricky highstep layback section. Up juggy flakes to mega roof - out this on mostly big holds and finish up killer headwall. Extended runners to avoid rope drag. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

Climb start for 'High Roller' clipping first 4 bolts, take a 3-4m run out traverse to the left to clip bolt just above roof on 'Crash Test Dummies'. Continuing to traverse the juggy roof merging up to anchor of '3D Disco'.

The arete. Stick clip the first bolt, then power through the bouldery start to easier climbing in a nice position.

Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors.