Routes in Pierce's Creek

Left side of the large face at the top of the crag, one of the first boulders if approaching from the top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTyUKfN2aVE

Sit start then climb up and top out. No stacking pads for SS.

Bevan Ashby

Start right hand in good jug in break, traverse into Fundamental.

Stephen Waring

Sit start. Throw to a rail from some poor incuts praying for footers now that one of the epoxied holds has disappeared. Cruxes - getting from the sit to the good holds, and executing a gaston out left and continuing left and around, topping out on big holds as for the V5. Likely not possible after the good hold to throw off has broken.

An extension to Saint Christopher, almost 180 degrees around the circle from Slapsickle.

start on crimps in the in the crack right of hangman. bust up into the rooflet then join back into hangman to topout

Stand start under the blunt arete, use the pencil crimp to get into the undercling in the little roof and top out

Sit start the steep crack. A test piece for well 'ard crack climbers. You can try and layback/undercling this, but if you aren't Arnie or can't jam you're likely to fail. Eat your wheaties.

King line of Cohiba. Follow the crack through the roof and up the slab to finish. Hopefully you have the perfect hand size.

Dane Evans | David Cook

Stand start matched on low rail then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start on leftmost crimp as for Sabotage, climb right into Madam Lash.

Sit start at the corner of the boulder as for 'Madame Lash' and head up and left to join the underclings. It's unclear whether an intermediate hold has been damaged by the fires but seems difficult to get to the underclings.

Stand start with LH on arete and RH on incut sidepull then climb up and top out.

Start as for Couch Slouch, traverse left through Couch Fisher and carry on to finish as for Medica.

Start as for Couch Slouch and traverse left on low line of holds to finish up Fishery.

CMCC

Sit start from slot then climb up and top out. NOTE: seeps for at least a day after decent rain.

Bevan Ashby

Looks like this used to be a hard compression problem and perhaps would still go that way.

Right of Number 12

Sit start left of the start of Teenage Angst on a small pebble then out to the incuts left.

Sit start.

Sit start then out left and up through small incuts and very large moves, off-balance with crap footing!

Big moves on okay holds to start, and then the crimpers and slopers start up. Off-angle.

Sit start from base of arete then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

#historic

Instead of continuing Public Enemy past the arete, head directly up past a committing mantle. A good addition that was long seen, but never climbed.

Sit start and traverse right through a line of very small crimps, topping out for Brass Monkey. If you stay off the higher crimps, add a grade.

CMCC

Stand start and along underclings all the way around the boulder to topout on the far right on easy ground. Looks to have been significantly damaged by the fires, possibly harder.

Sit Start on the back of the boulder on 2 flat ledges. Tricky first move into a whale of a mantle

After the tricky move to the sloper lip, go straight up the slab.

Hang start on right hand jug, traverse left on crimps and slopers, mantle

Start as for Fluffy Cheesecake, travers right on small crimps, finish as for Rats Nest.

A powerful start then traverses left into slapsickle. It will leave you pumped.

Up through burly underclings to long throw to a pocket, then thrash your way around trying to find some way to keep yourself connected to the rock. Hit the knife edge apex, then easily slab your way up to finish. The topo foreshortens the climb considerably - it's no lowball, particularly with the insecure thrutching you will have to enter into up top.

Sit start and up with big moves on small crimps, with a tough topout.

Sit start as for Chalice, on the lowest holds, then top out to the left through a wafer-thin crimp. Matching on that (or using the other crimp for your left hand) and throwing to the rail is the crux. Possibly a minor variant of what was Pizza Knob (V4) which got damaged during the fires and is rated V8 in the new guide, but topping out on the same tiny holds.

Stand start from face/arete right of corner. Done on face crimps. Or the Warner version of a classic arete dyno to flat jug.

Start as for Walking on eggshells and climb right to top as for Humpty Dumpty.

Sit start on the incut/s and up and over the slabby section to topout (if you're brave) or drop off. Seems harder than 7 since the fires.

Insta classic, stand start on a good jug and deadpoint or dyno to the jug. Top out with a commiting mantle. Be sure to have an exit plan.

Sit start with hands in the crack at the back of the cave; where it flares. Starting where the crack constricts 1/4 the way out isn't the correct start. Out and up.

Stand start and mantle the vague scoop.

Sit start from rail, then climb up trending leftwards and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Stand start arete then climb up and top out.

Sit start as for Saint Christopher but go straight to the gaston rather than up.

#historic

Sit start from jugs to the right of S and top out as for Salmon.

A highball problem starting at a sit start down low and ending around the corner of the boulder with a mantle at the 5 metre mark. Follow the shallow crack/rail all the way. Crux is the first part before you hit the corner, particularly making a cross through a fairly shallow pocket. 10+ metres of climbing, despite the 5 metre height. This problem was never chipped.

Start from the bottom and jump to grab the lip, just like a basketballer going for a dunk. Then execute a techy mantle. Hope you've got spotters. As with any dyno, the grade will be very height dependent, particularly considering you're jumping from the ground without the help of any holds to lever against.

Stand start then climb up trending rightwards and top out (block on left is out).

Stand start and up.

A 15 (?) metre traverse of the whole boulder, smearing all the way. Will need some cleaning up post-fires.

A long traverse potentially circumnavigating the entire boulder. Two cruxes - a clutch throw from a small incut and an off-balance reach-through from the same hold.

Sit start from right hand crimp then climb up and top out.

Sit start on the chipped holds, go up through the chipped letterbox and lunge for the top.

Sit start from chipped incuts and head left to finish.

Stand start from small edges then climb up and top out.

Up the lower leftward diagonal break. It gets high, and looks rather hard

Opal Boulder - up face and slab top out, 12 hard slab moves with a beautiful crux footer which is truly outrageous

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Start as for Shlop, move right through some small edges, and make a big move up.

Sit start with a hand on each of the good edges at the left side of the block, make a big move straight up and top out.

From a sit start, lowest holds possible, crux is the sloper slap, finding your footing and bumping up then top out as for Unknown 2.

Sit start from left side of arete then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start in the horizontal break. Traverse right using crimps and/or the sloping top to finish up Jaiho. Starting with both hands on the side pull flake probably adds a grade.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Stand start from RH side pull then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start at the base of the boulder. Straight up the tapered arete/face, and then along the rib above.

A sit-start problem, up pressing into the scoop then large moves/frictioning to the top. Very bodymorphic, hard to grade.

Low sit start as for Coronas. Follow the start of Coronas left along the low flake, then head further left and traverse the horizontal break to finish up Magicos.

Start at good flake, traverse right across the horizontal break and then crimps to reach the far arete, then up.

A link up of Robustos and Exquisitos. Follow the line of Robustos to the Magicos flake, then join the line of Exquisitos and follow that to the far right arête to finish.

About 80 metres away from Animal Train across a gully and past an overgrown road. Bit hard to find at the moment. Hard and overhung. Stand start on the lowest point (the small notch) then up from sidecling or a match traversing right. Very physical.

A highball line that previously went up the face between Split Infinitive and 'Number 12', Looks to be doable, but may be a bit harder

Sit start then climb up slab gaining flake and top out.

Sit start from rail, then climb up trending rightwards and top out.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Stand start at the scoop with left hand on low crimp, up the scoop and through the mossy slab

Stand start right of the tree. A hard start, with good compression (look for the crimpy right hand sidepull and the undercling toe hook) and layback moves up the seam. A harder sit start also looks possible.

sit start to the right of what a drag with left pinch and low right hand.

Stand start from break then climb roof trending rightwards topping out as for Elephunk.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start from feature at back of roof, move off the undercling with your left hand then climb up and top out.

Sit start from feature at back of roof, move off the undercling then climb up and top out.

Stand start from left hand arete then climb up and top out.

Thin face round the corner right of Mollusk

Traverse from a burly sit-start very reminiscent of 'Phone Sex', round the corner and up through a single chipped hold and very balancy move to the top.

Up past a chipped hold onto a chipped scoop then throw a long way for a rail. Unusually for granite, it's reasonably overhung. Get feet set somehow and mantle.

Sit start. Up through now broken flakes using a two finger pocket to gain the break and some crimpy rails reminiscent of 'Vendetta'. From there you could either go direct or left along the rail for roughly the same grade.

Sit start and up through jugs. Moderately overhung, a hard move with poor feet will get you to the topout. Start on the lowest incut/undercling or you may sacrifice a grade.

An easier variant can be done by heading up and right following the first move.

Stand start then climb up and top out (block on left is out).

Sit start as for Rift Zone. After the first moves to get set on the good horizontal rail, head diagonally left and up past two more good rails, then up to finish.

Undercut sit start to gain the good rails, then nice edging to the top.

Sit start and top out on the left.

Sit start, and straight over the nose of the block using crystals/small edges.

Stand start as for Hot Cocoa, then move right to finish.

Stand start from face/arete right of corner then climb up and top out.

Drop the rope, grab a pad and start it from a sit.

A highball, very height dependent. Sit start. Sink a jam (if you can) up high and use a small notch for your left hand to campus up and get your feet set. That's the hard move, the rest is grade 14. For shorties, it's going to be more difficult but there's a reasonable number of holds. You can get off the back of the boulder, if you're careful. Obviously, don't use the tree... (it actually is quite tempting when you're trying to get the side-smear!)

May be called 'Rino'? A problem reminiscent of 'Spruce Moose', climbing your way up a prow. Currently needs gardening as there's a tree in the way.

A problem marred by a tree right in the way. Sit start.

A pure slab problem after a rockover onto the one rail/set of holds the problem has. Then it's desperately trying to levitate upwards.

Sit Start 4m left of Trickery, Punchy first move and mantle