Routes in Pierce's Creek

Powerful start, then technical on slopers, easy finish.

Around the side of the boulder from Bow You Bastards, start on good holds (past the gaston) and up.

Sit start on rail, up through crimps. Apparently a hold has broken in the middle making this harder. Potentially V7 now?

One of the only warm ups at the slab area. Sit start and head up right on the ramp.

Stand start at low blunt edge, then up slab tending slightly left, using the obvious scoop feature towards the top. Can sit start, at same grade.

Stand start and up. Step across to the top of the main block or bridge between the two blocks to descend.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out (block on right is out).

Up the face, in the alcove right of Beker. Some nice quartz edges. Sit or stand start (slightly to the right), at around same grade.

Sit start on the large sidepull feature in the middle of the block, do a hard gaston move and top out straight up.

A powerful start then traverses left into slapsickle. It will leave you pumped.

Sit start, and top out on the right.

Sit start on good low holds, then head up and right to finish out on easier terrain.

At the top of the smallish bloc, directly left (looking uphill) of the Animal Train bloc. Sit start with good holds, then straight up.

DYNO - Sit start on crimps and dyno to jug on the arete, then top out. Most of the challenge is in missing the pads on the swing.

Low sit start at the base of the flake. Left along the flake, then up via the scoop and arete.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out.

Sit start from slot then climb up and top out. NOTE: seeps for at least a day after decent rain.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start with a hand on each of the good edges at the left side of the block, make a big move straight up and top out.

The first crack you'll see when approaching from the downhill side. The best line at Pierce's Creek, classy climbing. The first 6m is easy but involves a pair of huge hollow flakes with questionable pro (be gentle). The business is the thin hand crack above on sound rock. Take plenty of red cams, and a few other assorted things. Blue and grey cams are best for the belay, but other options are available.

Slabby arete immediately right of crystalline. Sit or stand start, at around same grade.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Stand start and up, immediately right of the blunt arete.

Sit start on the right side of the good flake, then up.

Sit start at the arete. Up to side pull on the arete, then move left onto the slab and straight up.

Sit start (as for #15) and up, finishing via a good rail high on the left. Excellent gymnastic moves on decent holds down low to a technical finish.

Sit start on the right side of the plate, and up.

Highball crack with little room to land. The problem is pretty easy, but hitting the pads wouldn't be (Take it as Grade19/20 trad)

Stand start matched on low rail then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Stand start and up slab. Thin start, then a diagonal line of good quartz edges.

Sit start and up. The good but detached low footer is out.

The gently overhanging finger and hand crack on the uphill side of the split boulder.

Straight up, in front of the tree between Beker RHV and Crystaline

Sit start and up the corner, more sustained than you expect

Start as for Fishery climb left to finish as for Shlap.

Start as for Shlop, move right through some small edges, and make a big move up.

Straight up into the scoop. Also serves as a good descent from this boulder, jumping from the scoop onto a pad.

Sit start at the obvious sloping ledge, and go directly up and over (heading right into the obvious crack is a lot easier and not as nice).

Visible ahead slightly to the right, when approaching the Play with Fire boulder. Sit start with good compression side pulls, then straight up.

Stand start. Up crimps and vert features.

Sit start the steep crack. A test piece for well 'ard crack climbers. You can try and layback/undercling this, but if you aren't Arnie or can't jam you're likely to fail. Eat your wheaties.

King line of Cohiba. Follow the crack through the roof and up the slab to finish. Hopefully you have the perfect hand size.

Dane Evans | David Cook

Sit start on underclings, up the arete to the jug, then pull the top

Stand start on jug just left of the blue spot, and use a toe hook to do the mantle, do you need an explanation?

Traverse from a burly sit-start very reminiscent of 'Phone Sex', round the corner and up through a single chipped hold and very balancy move to the top.

Stand start - up the face in the gap.

Easily up the right side of the face, on good edges.

Sit start on the left side of the arete, then straight up.

Sit start and traverse right through a line of very small crimps, topping out for Brass Monkey. If you stay off the higher crimps, add a grade.

CMCC

Sit start and top out on the left.

Up the thin face, immediately left of The Scoop, and right of the Crimp Ladder face.

Sit start from feature at back of roof, move off the undercling then climb up and top out.

Straight up the slab, starting directly below the small scoop feature. Thin hands to start. Finish between Taza and Beker RHV.

Sit start at jugs at the lowest, most left point of the face - traverse right to join Boldrewood Arete and finish up that.

Up the very good easy feature. A good beginner or kid's problem, with an easy descent off the back.

Up between the two gum trees.

Sit start on the right, then up.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Stand start, with a good handhold on the left. Up the face past a good sidepull high on the right, then good edges on the high slab to finish.

Start at good flake, traverse right across the horizontal break and then crimps to reach the far arete, then up.

Sit start, right of the arete. Straight up the wall with good crimps.

Sit start in the horizontal break. Traverse right using crimps and/or the sloping top to finish up Jaiho. Starting with both hands on the side pull flake probably adds a grade.

Sit start on small rock

Sit start with the good flake, on the face left of She's a Rainbow. Up and slightly left into the face and scoop.

Sit start at the base of the wall/prow using the pedestal for feet. Straight up with good compression moves, using whatever comes to hand. The stand is also worthwhile, and goes at about V0.

Stand start and up the crimpy wall and seam.

Up the double scooped wall, immediately left of Continental Plate. Sit start, using the left edge of the plate and then heading slightly left.

Stand start on two small crimps, then up to more crimps and an easier mantle.

Right of The Likeable Llama arete/face, in the slot formed by the Animal Train bloc. Sit start low on the prominent side pull, then a big move to the lip, mantle, and up.

Up the flake. Lots of easy variants possible on this wall for warming up, beginners or kids.

Sit start low with righthand on a side pull and left hand on either of the low edges. Pull on moving left and up.

Sit start with hands in the crack at the back of the cave; where it flares. Starting where the crack constricts 1/4 the way out isn't the correct start. Out and up.

Easily up the left side of the face, on good edges.

Facing the track on the next boulder along from the Drive block. Sit start and up on good holds.

The largest boulder has two impressive cracks in it. The wider, right hand one is Matricide. Approach the boulder from the downhill side to avoid a barricade of logs. Burly, overhung fist-corner crack with an off-width start. Takes blue and grey cams most of the way. Gear belay on top, then scramble off the back.

Ditto to #12.

One of the best highball finger cracks at Pierces - sit start up vertical finger crack!

Straight up the pillar, on the opposite side to The Nose. Balancy start, and up straight over bulges using slopes and side pulls.

Sit start from rail, then climb up trending rightwards and top out.

Stand start and straight up, using the hanging flake feature.

Mantle from the good holds in the horizontal break.

Stand start from face/arete right of corner. Done on face crimps. Or the Warner version of a classic arete dyno to flat jug.

Sit start from rail, then climb up trending leftwards and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Stand start, and straight up the flake features. A few different sequences are possible, all around the same grade and quality.

Sit start beneath crack/corner then climb up and top out.

Sit start on good holds, then up and right to join the Roadside Block Mantle.

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Sit start on the left side of the arete, then up using the arete and holds further left as useful.

Stand start on good crimps and go straight up. This boulder is 20m behind and 10m to the left of the main overhanging boulder.

Sit start and up through jugs. Moderately overhung, a hard move with poor feet will get you to the topout. Start on the lowest incut/undercling or you may sacrifice a grade.

An easier variant can be done by heading up and right following the first move.

A sit-start problem, up pressing into the scoop then large moves/frictioning to the top. Very bodymorphic, hard to grade.

Sit start beneath flake then climb up and top out.

Low sit start at the crack, left of Sticky Fingers. Big holds but awkward climbing up the flake/cracks.

Sit start as for She's a Rainbow, then move left to join the Street Fighting flake and continue left to finish up that problem.

Sit start as for Street Fighting Man, then traverse around the arête to finish up She's a Rainbow.

Low sit start on undercling/sidepull, then right to join the base of the good seam and across to finish up Magicos.

Sit start on the good underclings on the right side of the block, climb straight up.

Sit start on undercling and sidepull,

Sit start from incut jug on back of boulder then climb up and top out.

Sit start left side arete then climb up and top out.

Sit start low on undercling/sidepull and directly up arete

Stand start with the good footer, immediately right of the low wedged block. Up and over the apex of the boulder.