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Routes in Gold Coast for selected grade

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Showing all 28 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Binna Burra Bellbird Buttress Rapture Wall
18 Conrod Corner

15m up left trending gully. From tree step right into corner and up corner system to bushes at half height. A classic climb, with excellent jambs and bridging, great holds where you need them and excellent gear. Layback at the bulge with more bomber gear and split crack. Loose rock at the top.. Wire runner at top for belay. A 70m rope to wrap back to the tree, or take 2 ropes.

FA: Ted Cais, Donn Groom & Mike Meadows

Trad 35m, 2
Binna Burra Bellbird Buttress Red Rock
18 Red Crack

Initialled start. Be wary of the Bees nest on the 2nd pitch.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows

Trad 80m, 3
Closed Burleigh Heads National Park
18 Jungle Boogie

Just R again. Face route up pillar on bolts next to good gear. Up past break to small sickle-crack (sling), then to ledge. Finish as for Anaconda. A great lead.

FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 2002

Sport 15m, 2
18 Call Of The Wild

The most obvious route here. 2m R of pillar and marked by some weird metal spikes sticking out down low. Attractive, sinuous crack up corner to small roof, then ramble out.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1993

Trad 15m
North Burleigh Bouldering
V0+ Miami Flake

Sit start below lower flake, move up to lower flake and follow. Move up to upper flake and top out on the far right with mantle. If possible, start at the lowest point of boulder as sand can affect the starting point. Located on the other side of Grasshopper's Rock and starts on the bottom of the two flakes that run up from left to right.

Set: Sammy Stevo, 24 Jan 2016

FA: Sammy Stevo, 24 Jan 2016

Boulder 2m
Pages Pinnacle
18 Trixster

Hard start and technical climbing, follow the obvious seam to the top. Marked "T"

Set: Gordon Baudino, 8 Nov 2014

FFA: Gordon Baudino & Glenn, 15 Nov 2014

Sport 18m, 7
18 Party Time

A bit of thought required on this. Grade may be harder if placing the draws.

Set: Glenn, 21 Sep 2014

FFA: Glenn, Sheree Ferguson, Nicola Banwell, Gordon Baudino & ross ferguson, 25 Oct 2014

Sport 18m, 8
18 Nerangutan p1

About 20m right of Tinka is this slab route. Bolted with FH's. Slightly runout to where it steepens. A bit adventurous. Chains on right.

FFA: ross ferguson & Tom Cramer, 2011

Sport 25m, 11
18 TOS

Short and fun - a popular warm-up. Most find this a pumpy little 18.

FFA: Glenn, 2010

Sport 12m, 8
18 Flat Caps And Whippets

Climb the right side of the arete on cool knobby rock. Shares chains with The Tyke and both 21s to the right.

FFA: ross ferguson, Matthew Clifford & Glenn, 2010

Sport 12m, 4
Closed Poondahra
18 Spud
Unknown 19m
18 Big
Unknown 8m
18 Crazy Horse
Unknown 20m
18 Selective Amnesia
Unknown 26m
18 Wipe Out VF
Unknown 23m
18 Tickle Me
Unknown 24m
18 Dawn Treader
Unknown 37m
18 D Climb
Unknown 40m
18 Ekidna
Unknown 25m
Whitinbah Wafers
18 Weetbix

Start at bottom of obvious crack corner. Right under the roof, belay, then back left onto jugs.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Robbie McBirney, 1975

Trad 42m
18 Walnut Cookie
  1. 18m 18 Good luck.

  2. 22m 15 The right hand line.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Trad 40m, 2
18 Marshmallow

Start below obvious corner and jam up

  1. 18 32m To tree belay. Hard Jamming.

  2. 14 10m Right near the top.

Note: tree belay might not be there 48yrs on. One can otherwise just run the pitches together.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

Trad 42m, 2
Wildside
18 Dreamwalker

Thin vertical start off the ground to a small slab section, then up to the beginning of the sharp arete. Many options here to continue; face, crack, side pull, layback, or the most compelling option is to go bold straight out on the corner of the arete hanging one leg either side. Plenty of holds but definitely not a gimme, you'll have to explore to find jugs, pockets and crimps. Continue up the arete and/or face to anchor. Great moves and so much fun, a highlight for the sector!

FFA: Ben Barnes, Fibonacci, Joni, Bethany Martland & Peter Martland, 27 Jun 2020

Sport 16m, 5
18 Solar Flare

A great short climb with some nice moves and holds that aren't immediately obvious making for a very challenging onsight at the grade. Usually shaded but mid morning can present a cheeky challenge through the crux. Best when starting from the lowest ground level (not the higher ground to the left), but stick clip the first bolt if required.

FA: Joni, Ben Barnes & Fibonacci, 12 Aug 2020

Sport 12m, 3
18 Duelling Bullfrogs

Varied climbing styles with great moves and several options through this 3D line. Start right of the little dihedral corner, up 5m to ledge, continue on the back wall up the left side of the obvious curving arete. Optional rests can be found along the curving arete before a committing to the next wall with a much sharper arete to the anchor. Belayer stay focused and watch the fall zone between bolts 5-6, potential to deck on a protruding rock below if you're not careful.

FA: Ben Barnes & Fibonacci, 19 Aug 2020

Sport 18m, 6
18 Pop Rocket

Some nice moves through the crux sequence at the start, then a cruisy slab to the anchors.

FFA: Fibonacci & Joni

Sport 15m, 4
18 Phantastic Phallus

Update: All the bolts on this route have been chopped by ranger.

This is a really fun climb on a unique and fascinating pillar feature. A sustained thin and crimpy route so rest as often as you can. 5 bolts + lower off anchor. Easy to top out above the anchor if you want to enjoy the summit for a while. This was the first route to go up at WS.

FFA: Fibonacci, Dimo & David Jefferson, 12 Jan 2019

Sport 18m, 5
18 From The Ashes

Thought provoking three dimensional climbing up the flake and corner system leads to a stellar move through the bulge. Gear is good where you need it, lower half requires a bit of focus around spaced gear (#5 won't go astray, but not required).

FA: Paul Norris, Gaston, Tmang & Andy

Trad 18m

Showing all 28 routes.

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