Routes in Toohey Forest for selected grade

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

Straight up overhang to jug and hard mantle out

LH undercling and RH on small hold just below the lip to start. Move up via slopers, mantle over the bulge and top out straight up. The block to the right is out.

Sit start off 2 slopey slits under staghorn fern to finger pocket. R hand to sidepull pinch, throw L to big jug and top out to L of fern.

Start R of L arete and jump up to large prominent hold (sharp and eats skin), get feet up and throw to good R knob at top. There is a good L hold near it and then go to cobble crimpers to the L and mantle out (V4)

A little painful

Sit start just right of Cobble Start with left hand on the large pebble, and right hand on the side-pull rail. Once you get your but off the ground, head up and left on slopers and small crimps out left.

Good value sit start. Start on low good edge and up the Acrobat on slopey crimps.

Sit start with hands in the good crimp and opposing undercut beneath it, powerful move to the juggy shelf above. Left hand around the corner to the left and gain the top.

Sit start on two moderate crimps. Left hand is 30cm right of the fern. Right hand is a further 30cm to the right. Find feet... Lunge right for first small jug, continue along above the "cave" turn the corner and finish using the lip at the top.

Start just right of 'Groovy'. Move straight up to ferns using small holds and crappy ridge before traversing left into 'Groovy'.

This section of rock is now fairly overgrown with moss, lichen and the fern.

Stand start: Straight up R arête using sharp cobbly holds and pockets, then throw to lip and mantle. ~V3

Sit start: Start with good low left hand side pull, and right hand pinch up high. Bump up to slopey break, and up from there.

Start with right hand in small slot, left hand inside the mouth of the cave. Move right to the good pinch of Num Num Num and follow this line to the top.

Sit start on the knobbly orange hold, then straight up past a couple slopers and a harsh but bomber fingerlock to a slopey topout, following the direct line.

Sit start on good holds. LH up to 3 shallow pocket pinch and RH up to nice side pull. Some technical feet to get solid for the top out.

Sit start with LH on undercling/sidepull/crimp on broken hold, RH on crimpy gaston slightly higher. Move up right then bust out left to the knob of the original Yakini standstart, and finish left up this.

Start on big low jug, then straight up through a cool sloper.

Akward-ish start on the left jug under the roof, then up to a bomber jug on the lip. Quite body tension-ey.

Sit start then up the crimpy edges.

This route was added to The Crag by Alex Mougenot (FA) but it wasn't added to a topo, nor was a description provided. From what I (Jack Mullaly) can tell from an old conversation in the area history, it traverses this boulder right to left. We assume it starts are the right hand diagonal edge and finishes far left. Certainly the crux is towards the left where the nice holds on top run out. Feel free to adjust if you know better than I!

Lip traverse right to left. Start at amazing sidepulls at far right. Traverse left and top out far left. Has a really great mix of different moves and holds. Graded V4 but might be better as a 3. Needs a second ascent.

Start as per the praise the cobble sit start. Traverse left through detrimantle start to the mantle unpieced start. Top out via mantle unpieced. At no point may you use the Starter ledge.

This is the natural version of The Mushroom, without using the chipped pockets. Sit start at the back wall on a side pull and sloper, move onto the good juggy break with your right hand. Avoid the chipped holds and mantle over the blunt nose.

http://strandedclimbers.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/summer-evening-at-tooheys-forest.html

Sit start in the pocket formed at the base of the crack to the left of Mushroom Magic. Move up the crack with a few layback and heel hook moves to reach a pair of slopers on the shelf. From here, gain the sharp slopers over the lip and anxiously mantle out.