Routes in South Australia

Up just L of Mariah, L along the horizontal, a step up then the little seam to the top.

Right side of big roof. Thin layback crack up to mini undercling crack. Up to obvious ledge. Step off ledge onto roof face and up to double bolt anchor

The rock could break too. Up the overhanging right side of the arete right of Pedagogue to a ledge. Continue up the arete. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge.

1. 40m (20) Climb one and a half pitches of "Machiavelli" to DBB on ledge.

2. 30m (27) The steepest route at Moonarie, classic moves the whole way. Climb up to carrot bolt below roof, then up and through double roof and arete above passing four bolts. Turn left onto the face and easier ground, up to DBB on big ledge.

Has been unnecessarily retrobolted by "Epicol" into a sport route.

Original bolts starting to show rust and age.

Start in the large corner left of I'm So Thin, to the roof then exit left for 5m, then up weakness.

Start just R of Precambrian shuffle, and under the roof. Shuffle out through the roof using undercling crack and OK feet. Great gear, small cams needed. At the lip paste feet on nothing and power layback out, turn lip and change corners. Finish as for Tensions. Awesome fun but desperate. Probably 27/28.

Vertical thinnish crack system 5m L of Man Overboard, beginning from a handy stance (abseil in).

Rarely done, mainly because it has a sport (bolted) start, then relies on trad (small wires) to finish. Climbs Pussycats start (crux) then trends left into Kiss My Brain (bolt and old piton). Over roof, but instead of taking the bolt line left (KMB), go up 2/3m then trent left to arete. Finish at top chain for maximum enjoyment.

Over the overhang at the thin seam 1m R of UM countinue directly up.

An offwidth struggle 3m L of Artemis. Big cams, tubes to 15cm.

On the buttress L of Diamond Wall, starting 3m L of ST. Up into the alcove balance R then up and R to the crack. Finish boldly up the face.

15m left of 'One Legged Dog' is a crack with a tree at 7m. Follow it the whole way, with a dog-leg to the right at the small overlap.

The huge crack up the otherwise blank face of the boulder near the summit. Gradually constricting crack ranging from squeeze chimney at bottom down to finger crack at top.

The main diagonal crack on the wall L of Midnight Sun. If the start is wet, climb a crack parallel to and just R of the main line to a stance at 5m. Gain the crack proper and follow it all the way.

The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

The big RH corner at the RH end of Waterloo Wall. Traverse in from the right or rap in.

The main crack L of the big orange scoop.

The diagonal line just left of the arête, which joins Somebody Shave Me at the final head wall.

Up Paradigm Connection to a point just above Paradigm's small overhang, then a finger pocket and some dicey moves up & left (past a bolt) to climb the head wall to the top. Keeping left of Paradigm in its entirety is the challenge. To step or reach right to use natural protection on Paradigm makes it too contrived and undermines the integrity of the climb.

The crack 2m right of DCN

The large crack 1m right of F.O.F. Well protected. Spicy Finish.

The central line with innovative fixed gear. Follow the vertical weaknesses up and right around the corner. Continue up the crack and top out. Has an assortment of gear hammered into the weaknesses including an old car seat belt buckle. Best fixed gear ever! Gear appears to be very old.

Probably best to be climbed on trad judging on how old the gear is and how it's inserted into the rock. Literally just bolts hammered into the cracks. FRA climbed on the gear for them old school feels.

The rib widening to a wall 2m R of The Ear. Cams to BD #4 in the crack on L.

Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G.

2m L of AFBPS. Corner, chimney, wiggle around the roof. Nice.

Unknown first ascent starting 1m left of Gostrich LHV and going straight up past approx 4 carrot bolts. A lower chain exists at the top but any fixed gear 6m prior to that does not. Take some trad.

Up the large crack and scrable fun climbing up to top of cliff. Natural anchor.

(F) The protection is reasonable, but take note of the name. Sustained climbing up to the ledge then short wall to finish. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

Start as for Mum's Mat to the roof, but traverses right on tenuous moves until the ground is reached.

The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.

Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.

The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.

Boulder the face via sidepulls up to ledge (big lego block that looks loose). Surmount this and punch through the roof on on to the summit. Established as an onsight solo.

Up seam and corner to small roof, then up funky crack with some interesting moves. Up slab to hand crack/chimney, through to a cave and out through roof of cave. Good pro and good fun!