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The Kitchen

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Summary

If you want crimps and foot holds go to Mt Stuart, if you’re looking for arete hugging and heel hooking, you’re in the right place.

Description

If you want crimps and foot holds go to Mt Stuart, if you’re looking for arete hugging and heel hooking, you’re in the right place. A number of huge boulders which have split to reveal blank faces with prominent aretes.

Access issues

Do not climb on or near any boulders with aboriginal paintings. Be careful with your chalk dust. Be careful when establishing new routes to maintain appropriate distance.

Approach

Drive for approximately 12 minutes along Hervey’s Range Road until you reach area shown on Map. Parking is partially obscured, on right. Pink flagging tape currently marks parking. The parking can fit 4 cars and is the start of a 4wd track. Trail to crag is immediately on other side of road going uphill. Follow trail head trending along drainage channel towards Townsville then turn right towards boulders uphill. From car park to boulders is 2-3 minutes.

(-19.360065, 146.484155)

Ethic

Do not climb on or near any boulders with aboriginal paintings. Be careful with your chalk dust. Be careful when establishing new routes to maintain appropriate distance.

History

History timeline chart

The area is believed to be first climbed by a core group of geology students and staff (including Eric Roberts). They bolted the first sport route in the area and put up a fair few boulder problems. A later renaissance occurred in 2019-2021 spurred on by covid exploring.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

A large boulder which has split in to three sections; The Chopped Boulder, The Sliced Boulder and the Grated Boulder.

Start as for Sliced for the first three bolts. Stem start, then pucker up and step over to arete sharing anchors with Chopped.

FFA: Jack Heenan, 9 Sep 2021

Start via stemming and continue up the arete to finish at a DRB.

FA: Eric Roberts

Stick clip first bolt. A thoughtful start to establish yourself on the arete shared with Sliced.

Stick clip the first bolt. To gain the first hold, do the splits off the boulder. Balance your way up delicate face climbing. Top out for anchors.

FFA: zac & Jack Heenan, 2021

Set: zac, 2021

Starting on the other end of the split from Sliced. If your knee or elbow goes over the lip, you are not doing the intended route. The climb can be easily equipped/ cleaned by mantling on to the boulder and walking along the top. Further, this technique can be used to bail/ skip sections.

FFA: Jack Heenan, 30 May 2021

Mantle over the arete at the 8th bolt of Chopped for a short version. DBB found on top of boulder. Recommended to second to clean and rappel to lower off.

FFA: Jack Heenan & Eric Roberts, 22 May 2021

Ideally needs some work before repeat ascents.

FFA: Felix

FA: Jack Heenan

Start clipped at the first bolt and dyno from small ledge to gain arete. Second to clean. As for chopped, you can mantle arete to equip/ clean route/ skip sections. Can be linked in with Decils if you are looking for more arete hugging.

Start on jug rail, throw a heel and reach the edge below the lip before mantling.

Slightly over hanging face, start on the lowest point of obvious rail (slightly flexing be careful). Definitely use a pad on the slab for when climber is topping out.

FA: Glen Hayford, 15 Sep 2021

Follow up crack full of vines and green ant nests on the back side of Dream Catcher

FA: andrew s, 2020

Open roof project, all moves go just need to be put together

Open project, the best looking boulder line in Townsville but probably the hardest also. Starts low on the steep face following the tiny flakes and scars in the face up to a glorious top out. Lots of cleaning has been done and still being done for th landing, careful with pad placement and spotting.

A well featured course granite boulder.

Up the obvious route via good holds. This is also the easiest way to descend the boulder. Sit start for a harder problem.

FA: Luen Warneke, 24 Aug 2018

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Wed 26 Apr
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