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Fingal Beach

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Seasonality

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Summary

Adventurous bouldering in a stunning location. Afternoon low tide and sunny weather are a must if you want dry holds and dry feet.

Description

A handful of problems on bullet hard, pocketed limestone. A day of high octane crushing this is not. You're here for the adventure and the setting. The bouldering is just a delightful bonus.

Access issues

You're in the national park, so follow all signs and regulations. Check the Parks website before you visit: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/mornington-peninsula-national-park

Approach

Park at the Fingal picnic area just off Cape Schanck Rd. Take the Coastal Walk trail north west towards Gunnamatta beach, then follow the signs to trend left down the stairs to Fingal. From the bottom of the stairs head south (turn left) along the beach. Follow the coast line for 400m to just beyond the first boulders over the pebble beach and you're there.

Ethic

Do better than the hikers. Leave no traces, yours or other peoples. Pack out any trash you find and keep the place pretty.

History

History timeline chart

Karl Bromelow has been climbing here since 2008, and Evan Campbell since 2019. Working backwards in the sequence, one presumes climbers find the spot in 11 year increments, with probable discoveries in 1997, 1986, 1975, and so on and so forth.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start far left, then up the arete via holds hidden round corner. Tight space if you're tall.

Sit start. Use handle hold for the win.

Sit start as for the handle and top out right.

Sit start, arete right of The Handle. Have some pity and gently remove the local residents before crushing.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 5 Jul 2022

SDS traverse the face on mostly smooth holds to top out at the grooves just R of Jetsam.

FA: @dalai, 30 Mar

Sit start. Climb the orange features directly above the big smooth rock. Shallow water solo?

Sit start.Climb the sculpted orange features to top.

Sit start. Steep prow immediately right of Jetsam on smooth holds directly to the grooves at the lip.

FA: @dalai, 5 Apr

Sit start immediately right of the block and climb the steep face. Sharper holds than its neighbours.

SDS immediately R of Ligeia and just L of the block on the ground.

Climb up and R via the seam and vague arete to divots on the lip. Finishing straight up from there.

FA: @dalai, 30 Mar

Sit start under roof on pockets, use seam left and face holds right to top just right of the block behind you. Very nice.

FA: Evan.C, 2019

Sit start below the obvious seam, then trend right to finish as for Ligeia.

FA: Evan.C, 2019

Sit start as for Leucosia, head left to finish as for Atlantis.

FA: Evan.C, 2019

Open project.

Sit start. Up using the split finger pockets to latch the slippery sloping pocket to jugs of Scrimshaw Traverse. Finish either left or right.

Sit start. Branches out right from the start of Atlantis getting the first smooth pocket on Atlantis with the left hand rather than right. Vertical 2 finger pocket up right then awkward high step rock over to latch a Gaston on Scrimshaw Traverse directly above the 2 finger pocket with the left. Reverse Scrimshaw a move and top out carefully just right of the capstone.

Hard to grade. Could be harder or easier depending on how many fingers you can squeeze in the vertical pocket and how well you fit the high step. Careful not to dab on the smooth block immediately behind.

FA: @dalai, 5 Apr

Sit start on jug rails to climb the pocketed arete. Step off from the final jug to the block behind (topped for the FA but adds nothing).

FA: Evan.C, 2021

Line of least resistance up the tall slab.

Follow the hairline seam diagonally L up the slab.

FA: @dalai, 30 Mar

From the smooth jugs, punch straight up to the lip and top out over razor blades.

FA: @dalai, 30 Mar

From right most holds, traverse left to top out through a poor crimp and long moves. Steep, cool.

FA: @dalai, 21 Apr

Sit start underneath the boulder and make difficult moves to finish as for the top of Mavericks.

Stand start is a good problem in its own right at V3

FA: @dalai, 5 Apr

Cool spanned compression up steep but low overhang. Sit start with low left hand on arete and choice of right hand features. Slap up the arete and mantel. Bring long arms.

FA: Jamie, 13 Jan

Similar to RH but from the start feel free to use holds around the left of the arete.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 15 May 2022

Sit start down the hole at the top of the jumble of boulders behind The Handle. Climb out with feet on the right and no recourse to Big M block for right hand nor the jug around left of arete for left hand. Eliminate but very nice.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 15 May 2022

Stand start matched on the scoop. Up using mostly smooth hand holds.

FA: @dalai, 30 Mar

Open project.

SDS right underneath start matched on the deep slot. Out to pinch pocket and then starting holds on Teles finishing up this.

Novelty lowball. Amazing how your standards drop when everything else is still too wet.

Sitting between Teles and Second Mate. Pocket and edge just below the lip. Up and over.

Sit start in the hole. Gain the jug rail and traverse it right to top easily.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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