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Big Glassy All Aid climbing 3 routes in area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 5
3
YDS
5.75.85.95.10a5.10c

Seasonality

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Summary

Remote adventure climbing at its best. Mostly aid climbing or free climbing previously aided climbs. Serious undertakings for experienced climbers only.

Description

A big, glassy wall capped by roofs, and flanked by major corner systems on either side. Quite a remote feeling to the place, not the best place for an accident . . .

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Head downstream following rough road on right hand side of river for several kilometres until you reach some old shacks and a nice clearing - look up and across the river at the immensity that is Big Glassy (You may have noticed it already).

Where to stay

A great base camp area is opposite the old farmhouse. Great views of the wall. An advanced camp can be setup in a walk thru cave at the base of the main wall, on the right hand side.

Ethic

Remote adventure climbing in wilderness. No power drills. Be careful, help is quite a long way away!

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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1
15 AID:A3+ R ★ Fever Aid 270m, 8

Major Aid climb on the left-side of the wall via a shallow corner in the smooth orange wall capped by a large roof.

Gear: 8 knifeblades, 5 Lost Arrows. 3 Baby Angles, 2 bathooks, 1 skyhook; Double Cams to 2.5 1 each larger, Rack of RPs, Rack of Nuts and tie-offs

Start: From base of major arching corner left of the middle of the wall

  1. 50m (- M2) Aid corner / crack past bolts (from earlier unknown attempt) to DBB at small ledge. Thin Tie offs needed near end.

  2. 50m (14 M3) Corner via BR andtie offs to narrow ledge, Tree and 2.5 cams for belay.

  3. 50m (12 M5) Aid crack of left of ledge then free up and left to next ledge. Aid loose R-leading flake from L of ledge till 3m below shale band, Thin vertical crack via BR into shale then flakes, horizontals and bathooks tending L via BR to semi-hanging BB plus 1-1.5 cams.

  4. 30m (15 M3) Aid through small roof then free up R along ramp to ledge. Belay at R end of ledge. DBB (one loose) plus wires and cams. Retreat from here would require tyrolean to previous belay.

  5. 35m (- M5) Wall via BR's and hooks to left-most elegant arching crack. Nail crack then left across wall via hooks and BR's to reach flake, Up to HB - 2BB plus knifeblades,

  6. 35m (14 M6) Slightly L for 7m via hooks, blades, BR and cams, then R via hooks to BR. Out through large roof via pins cams and BRs. (One missing -take bolt). Turn lip on large cams, then free wall to belay off cams and BR,

  7. 20m (12) Wall to large ledge, Belay from wall behind ledge or tree on R.

  8. -m (-) Bush-bash R along ledge for 150m to begin descent

FA: Andrew McAuley & Vera Wong (alt), 1994

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2
20 M7 Big Glassy / The Original Route Aid 270m, 10

Climbs right side of face, traverses left then charges straight up following vague hanging corner system.

Early repeats by Darragh/Peisker and McAuley.

Gear: large selection of pegs, mainly Blades, Arrows and Angles. Wires and cams, mainly small/med.

10 pitches 260m 20M7

Start: Right edge of wall on wide ledge. Start marked BG.

FA: Chris Dale & Andrew Penney, 1983

3
18 M5 R ★★ The Great Untoothed / Big Glassy Corner Aid 240m, 7

A must for choss'ists. Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'. Climbs BIG corner - Loose in parts.

Gear: Skyhooks, Double cams and wires.

Belays are well equipped with BR's and / or fixed gear.

Start: Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'

Great free route P1 to 5 the rap off. 23ish.

  1. 35m (14) Easy broken corner to large ledge, turning small roof on R. Gear belay.

  2. 35m (18 M3) Aid small corner behind ledge, then free moves L to main corner and up to belay. Free at about 21? Gear belay

  3. 35m (18 M4) Aid corner to roof then free around roof and up to bolt belay. Free at about 23?

  4. 20m (- M4) Up corner to chain belay. Last chance to bail.

  5. 15m (- M5) Up corner to shale band then L across wall and up to belay. Bad bolts?

  6. 50m (-) Down and L to wide crack. Aid through roof and beyond, then free up and L to belay on R under large roof.

  7. 50m (-) Aid 3m roof-crack then free up corner to final belay.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Julie Styles & Keiron Lawton (var), 1996

FFA: P1-5 Zac Vertrees, Rohan Druce & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2008

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Sat 13 May
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