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Route in Big Glassy for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 M5 R The Great Untoothed

A must for choss'ists. Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'. Climbs BIG corner - Loose in parts.

Gear: Skyhooks, Double cams and wires.

Belays are well equipped with BR's and / or fixed gear.

Start: Left leaning crack splitting right side of 'Main Wall'

Great free route P1 to 5 the rap off. 23ish.

  1. 35m (14) Easy broken corner to large ledge, turning small roof on R. Gear belay.

  2. 35m (18 M3) Aid small corner behind ledge, then free moves L to main corner and up to belay. Free at about 21? Gear belay

  3. 35m (18 M4) Aid corner to roof then free around roof and up to bolt belay. Free at about 23?

  4. 20m (- M4) Up corner to chain belay. Last chance to bail.

  5. 15m (- M5) Up corner to shale band then L across wall and up to belay. Bad bolts?

  6. 50m (-) Down and L to wide crack. Aid through roof and beyond, then free up and L to belay on R under large roof.

  7. 50m (-) Aid 3m roof-crack then free up corner to final belay.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Julie Styles & Keiron Lawton (var), 1996

FFA: P1-5 Zac Vertrees, Rohan Druce & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2008

Aid 240m, 7

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