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Nodes in Arche de Noway

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Showing all 7 nodes.

Node
Arche de Noway

First large cliff on the left as you head rightwards from the hut. It has a large arching cracked runnning horizontally for about 20m at about 20m above the ground, for which the cliff is named.

5.8 Colombe

Several meters left and up from the start of Arche de Noway, look for a bolt a short way up the cliff in dark rock, and further bolts moving more leftwards than up. Follow the bolts, trending more leftwards (generally on good holds) rather than up (thin steep slab) for the first 7 or so bolts, then up, then curving slightly back to the right at the top.

A great climb, long sustained climbing at 5.6-5.7 grade, with several 5.8-5.8+ cruxes along the way.

Because it climbs above a gully, it can generally be lead, and leader lowered off into the gully safely on a 60m rope. Can also safely rappel from anchors on a 60m rope. (Note: guide says 55m, but it is not that long. 1/2 mark on 70m rope was about at first bolt, when climber finished climb. So, about 40m.)

5.10a Arche de Noway

Look up the cliff (about 20m) for the obvious large arching horizontal crack/overlap. This climb starts on a line of bolts that descends from the right side of the crack, climbs up to the crack on bolts, then follows the arching crack leftwards until close to where it starts to descend, then breaks upwards to anchors.

5.10b La part du lion

Just right of the bolts for L'Arche de Colombe, this set of bolts goes up the mostly smooth looking slab. Rappel anchors part way up, and many people treat this as either a 2-pitch climb, or just climb to the rappel anchors and finish there.

5.9 Maudit Serpent

Bolt line about 4m right of Arche de Norway, curves to the right around a flake, then curves back leftwards to bolts.

New route right of Maudit Serpent

Just left of Maudit Serpent. Looks nice but very thin at the top.

2nd new route right of Maudit Serpent

Rightmost route on this slab. A modererate start leads into steep slab climbing.

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