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Roadside Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 9

Seasonality

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Description

Routes are written from climber’s right to left. Winter names of routes (Mixed ice/ Drytooling) are written in brackets where applicable.

Access issues inherited from Papineau Roadside

The crag is located on Crown Land. This area is active during hunting season in November - Be Seen, Be Heard!

Approach

See Papineau Roadside.

Routes

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Grade Route

(Drip Clip M5)

Right most sport route in the Scoop area. Finishes on jugs on the lip above the anchors.

Scoop Area.

(Casual Encounter M5+)

Finishes on jugs on the lip above the anchors.

Scoop Area.

Finishes on jugs on the lip above the anchors.

Scoop Area.

(The Way We Touch M7)

Permadraw chain extension on last bolt.

Scoop Area.

(Kowabunga M5+)

Scoop Area.

Top access/ decent gully.

Scoop Area.

(Portage M7)

Shares first bolt with Rock Gardening, then climbs right.

Scoop Area.

(Algonquin M7)

Shares first bolt with Crimp de la Crimp, then climbs up the dihedral.

Scoop Area.

(Trojan Horse M6+)

Climb past two bolts on chossy rock, followed by quality climbing through the roof and headwall. Bolted anchors with rusty maillons and aluminum carabiners needing replacement. Often wet until mid-summer.

Consolation Area.

(Office Hands M6)

Fun physical climbing through the roof and a technical finish. Bolted ring anchors. Often wet until mid-summer.

Consolation Area.

(Clip and Go M5+)

Right anchor bolt is loose in the rock and requires re-bolting. Left O-ring anchor bolt in good shape. Often wet until mid-summer.

Consolation Area.

(Spartacus M8)

Starts across from the short boulder with a low bolt on it.

Consolation Area.

(Zip A Dee Doo Dah M4)

Finishes on ring anchors.

Wafer Area.

(Spectre M5)

Two well-situated pitons on this route which aren't necessary as there is plenty of room for gear. There is also a loose handhold towards the top but it is wedged in and unable to be removed. Brown painted chain-ring anchor. Gear single rack #0.3-1 cams.

Wafer Area.

(Maynooth Goes Boom M6+)

Climb past a couple seeping ledges, follow the bolts left and up through the steep.

Wafer Area.

Great engaging climbing, stick clip recommended.

Wafer Area.

(Wafer Thin M8-)

Often dripping through the early summer and after rainfall.

Stickclip the bolt and climb the fun but tricky boulder problem to gain the shelf. Enjoy excellent 5.9 stemming and crack climbing to the top. There is also a second bolt after passing the large roof (bolted for winter use). Gear single rack cams #0.3 to #6. Use the large pine for tree anchor.

Wafer Area.

Just to the left of Wafer. Start at the cave entrance (or deep in the cave if you want to make a statement), climb up and left to a crux bouldery mantle. After a rest on the ledge, follow the crack to the ring anchors.

Wafer Area.

(Naked Soul M5+)

Mixed trad, 1 bolt low down, lower off tree anchor. Name of this slab is Face That Launched A 100 Awes

Wafer Area.

(The Streets Cry Freedom WI4+)

Trad, center line up the wall.

Wafer Area.

(Sticks and Stones WI4-)

Trad, left side of wall, follows dihedral.

Wafer Area.

(Madawaska Shuffle WI4)

Smaller slab face around the corner from Face That Launched A 100 Awes.

Wafer Area.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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