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Nathan's wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 44

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Description

The climbs at Nathan's Wall are technical and crimpy, & they tend to have bouldery cruxes; Fun face climbing! Most routes are short on colourful yellow and red rock, a real beautiful area. Some routes Could use a stick clip

Approach

From the parking area (50.90428, -116.44003) (another outhouse and big fire pit) head up the steep track towards the hidden cliff in the forest.

Ethic inherited from Spillimacheen

Pack in then pack it out.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The Crux is getting my to and past the first boot up to the ledge. A Boulder problem start

This route is sandwiched between two sport routes. To the left is Darkness Descending; the right, Too Many Ledges. Ascend the easy, right facing corner to a ledge. Here you will find a bolt. Ascend the thin cracks up the face. The pro does look meager, but perception is not reality. The right crack in particular hosts lots of good pro. Traverse left. Ascend the easier terrain to the anchor station.

Make the burly first moves to great ledges the whole way up. Trick is to find which ones to use. Starts to the right of a big boulder **

On the right side of the cliff is a face with a incipient crack running up it. This crack ascends to a prominent roof. One can traverse left around this roof and ascend the left facing corner to a anchor a station. This is abalokav rocks. This route is to the right of the sport climb Too many ledges.

This tackles the striking white wall above the overhang on the right side of the area.

Wander up to the large overhang. Utilizing amazing finger locks pull over the overhang and get established on the smooth wall above.

Move up leftwards before a tricky right move at the last bolt allows a sloping ledge below the chains to be gained.

Muster one last move up to the chains.

Climb the wall up to the overhang and moving slightly right continue on up to wall. Right side of the area

Large crack just left of 'Fructosis', it is not clear if this has actually been climbed.

Unclimbed line on the left side of Fructosis. Looks hard.

First route to the right of two big crack systems (dirty & loose) Wonderful climbing if you dont mind not having any real holds, burly & bold! Hardest route on the cliff *

Lots of energy to pull the hard first 2 bolts, have a snack first!

Hard face climbing, keep your feet on the wall and heed the name

Climb up a protruding mini buttress passing the first 2 bolts. Get established on the wall proper, and continue up making a tricky 4th clip then up to better holds above the clip.

Finish more easily above via a shallow right facing groove.

I suspect the topo for this is actually 'Unnamed' and that Fear Feather should actually be the first route left of the big open crack

An old guide book described the gear for this as "None"...

about 30m left of 'Dolomite Boogie'.

Climb the sustained face trending slightly leftwards.

Climb the wall via directly beneath a very small overlap at mid hight. Continue up the wall to pass a larger overlap just below the top.

G.E. Crack is at the right side of Nathan's Wall. It is the obvious, incipient crack that runs up the wall. The crack terminates at a cove. At this cove is a roof with a crack running up through it. Traverse right to the anchor station. This route shares an anchor station with Salmonella Ecstacy.

This route is at the right side of Nathan's wall. This route ascends a large, left facing corner to the cliff top. To the right of this route is the sport route named Estrogen arete. Ascend the corner to the cliff top. There are no anchors atop this route. Scramble left to clip the anchors atop Salmonella Ecstacy, or alternatively, scramble right to the anchors atop Estrogen arete.

There are a couple variations to this route to make it more interesting. Option 1: do the low traverse left to the right facing corner and climb around the arete to the Salmonella Ecstacy anchor station (more difficult). Option 2: do the high traverse left. Climb around the arete to the Salmonella Ecstacy anchor station (5.6).

After a steep and tricky start to get established on the arete, romp up the arete enjoying the moves and the fine position.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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