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仙居 Xianju Mostly Sport climbing 43 routes in crag

43
YDS
5.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

丰富的山地资源，300米的结组线路，热情好客的当地岩友 Rich mountain resources, bow section lines 300 meters, hospitable local climbers

Access issues

Approach

仙居县到白塔镇，白塔到石门样村岩壁就在村子边上，小河边 Baita Town Xianju to Baita village to Shimen rock.samples in the edge of the village, a small river

Where to stay

岩壁底下可以野营，也可以住农家 Camping under the rock can be live farm

  • 仙花土菜馆： 18968559216

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Height
Grades
1
牛鼻洞 Niubidong crag
 Mostly Sport climbing
39
166
11m
2

Routes

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2
5.10a 饭蒸岩 Sport 70m, 2, 12
1 5.10a 35m
2 5.8 35m

  1. 12 bolts, 第7把建议用长快挂. Long quick draw for the 7th bolt is recommended

  2. 5 bolts + tree. 第二把快挂建议加扁带挂大树上. Recommend to use tree as the 2nd anchor (sling + quick draw)

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3
5.11b/c 天柱岩 Sport 230m, 7, 18
Closed

Warning Access: 已禁止攀爬

1 5.10b 48m
2 5.9 35m
3 5.9 20m
4 5.7 20m
5 5.11b/c 30m
6 5.7 35m
7 5.10a 38m

Bolts: 18,16,8,4,14,8,14

4
神仙居飞拉达 Via ferrata 600m

飞拉达全长600米，最高200米，有个200米长的索桥，由高宁(Serge Koenig)设计，详情见介绍。位于神仙居景区内，需要门票。

5
5.10 A2 C2 R 世界的理想 Aid 350m, 11
1 5.9 A1+ 55m
2 5.8 C1+ R 30m
3 5.8 C1+ 25m
4 5.8 C2 20m
5 5.8 C1+ 55m
6 5.8 C1 20m
7 5.8 C1 30m
8 5.8 C1 R 35m
9 5.9 C1 R 30m
10 5.10 A2 30m
11 5.9 C1 R 20m

线路位于仙居县公盂岩南壁，2020年11月老聂在岩壁上挂了六晚独自一人通过Rope Solo的方式完成了该线路，不得不服其强大的精神力量和精湛的技术操作，撒花。

老聂的攀登报告1

FA: climber小聂, 29 Nov 2020

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5.10c ★★★ 面壁思过
5.10d ★★★ 磨溪清风

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Arthur Fernandez on ★★ 加一马 jiayima 5.12b - Last desperate move of the crux

Arthur Fernandez on ★★ 加一马 jiayima 5.12b - After a fall on Jiayima

at 牛鼻洞 Niubidong

主岩场 Main Wall - 仙居A区岩场20230501

Wed 10 May
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