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Fantasy Area

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 333
  • Aka: 梦幻墙

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Approach

可以由鸡蛋东北前往。

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.9 24m
2 5.8 21m
3 5.7 17m

FA: Paul Collis & Andrew Christensen

1 5.10c 22m
2 5.10d 18m

Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. 7 bolts for each pitch.

FA: Dave Gliddon & Colton Lindeman

1 5.10c
2 5.11d

1st pitch as the same as The Never Ending Story. Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels.

FA: Dave Gliddon & Colton Lindeman

This pitch goes to the belay on the large ledge at 25m but if you are not doing the upper pitches you can avoid the traverse by lowering of the belay at 22m.

FA: Dan Hannah & Paul Collis

FA: Paul Collis & Andy Halkyard, 2009

FA: Paul Collis & Dan Hannah, 2008

FA: Marshall Balick, JMorris, Paul collis & Bob Keaty

FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2007

The big holds are on the left. It follows the obvious arete up the left side of the face -- it would be quite a good route if not for the plethora of large and line-bending holds to the left. The end result is a route that looks pretty nice from the ground, but doesn't climb nearly so nice in practice.

FA: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang, 2008

Shares the start with Pumpy Brewster.

FA: Colton Linderman, 2007

FA: Jen DeRose & Erik Schnack, 2005

Shares the start with Sha Bi Abi.

Excellent quality technical climbing, don't be put off by the tricky start!

FA: Paul Collis & Andrew Christensen, 2007

The following routes need deleting

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Andrew Hedesh

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780998728605

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing at Yangshuo in southern China, covering nearly 800 routes across 40 different crags.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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