Routes in Ethiopia

Diamond in the rough basalt. Light problems and technical moves. Go straight over the crux for the 10c or stray right to make it less strenuous.

Beginner/intermediate climbing on quality and varied basalt.

Spicy and sharp. This rarely climbed adventure above Tenish Tenish is defined by its creator, Niels T, as ‘a 5.11 climb for 5.12 climbers’. Carry a clean pair of underwear.

PG was the first line bolted on this wall in honor of my first baby, a Chile-Gringo mix. Bouldery start on this one. The best option to access Sheba and Austerity Measures.

‘My Brother’ in Amharic, turned out to be Poroto Gringo’s lil sister. Shares same anchor. Lots of lichen.

Hardest line on the wall goes into and around the large roof on the upper part. Get acrobatic for the Queen of Sheba. Niels made this one too.

The best climb of its grade at AG. This line starts at the mid-way point and goes to the crag’s highest point along the edge of a long arete. Bolts were donated by a group of Spanish dancers!

Bavarian Bernde’s masterpiece. Bouldery start, powerful first crux and a techy, small crimper top. The man had to quit smoking just to redpoint this one.

Fun climbing goes up the middle and then right side of the middle pillar. Tiptoe out an exposed arete at the top and go for the crux. Name means something like ‘jumping jesus on a pogostick’ in local parlance. Throw a piece of pro in a big horizontal crack for the nerves.

Sustained 5.11 climbing until the crux two-thirds of the way up. Get a long rest before attacking the dark basalt and fingery crux of the blue donkey. You’ll likely scream ‘waraj’ to get off this one.

The easiest 5.11 at AG with smooth climbing and great holds. Worth the repeat, over and over. Amharic for “heroes don’t die”.

Popular and safe climb that gets steep before the chains. Big holds.

Oystein, the Norwegian first ascensionist abandoned this climb below the final ledge on a couple of nuts. Today, the most popular trad route at AG. Note there are two sets of anchors at the top of P1, one for toproping or lowering if just doing the first pitch and another 5m higher for setting up the second pitch. P2 is well worth your time with lovely cracks, protection and movement.

The best for its grade and the most climbed route at AG. Hospitable, playful and friendly, like most habeshas.

AG’s first route was named for the stalks of grain trampled to get to the base of the wall.

1. well protected sport climbing up a steep start, then moves right onto a pillar of grippy basalt.

2. step off the pillar, which stands separated from the wall, back to the wall and then up a slab to the top. Carry some gear for P2 if your not into longish, empty spaces. P2’s crux has bolts

Get your friends climbing on this easy stroll up a small slabby pillar. Already has everyone hissing “eshi eshi”. Can be extended with a second pitch, then belay at the second anchor.

Get up Easy Eshi first pitch, but belay at the second anchor on a nice ledge (past some grass) Straight up to the top of the wall.

A must-do. Simply incredible line with aesthetic and athletic! This is AG’s most iconic line and wasn’t bolted until the end of 2015. Use 70m rope, but can be done on 60m if belayer stands on the first ledge. Anbessa is lion: hear the roar.

The hardest trad line at AG, this steep left-trending crack gets finger thin and then transitions to a vertical crack at the crux. Shares anchor with Anbessa. So far, unrepeated.

The first crack climbed on this wall, starts in the right crack of Anbessa Wall’s middle crack system and moves to the left side and up. Takes all sizes of gear, nice climbing and an exposed finish. Celebrate the historic battle with the rest of Ethiopia on March 2nd.

The Bushy Slabs. Short climb for beginners: ‘No Problem’. Can be done on bolts or gear.

Same start as Galatoma, stay on the lower, left-trending crack and follow a thin finger crack straight up to the same anchors. Free and feral like its creator.

Climb up and over to the higher left- trending crack, then up a thin ramp to the first bolt. Another bolt and then the anchors. Galatoma means thank-you in the Oromifa language.

AG’s one-move wonder! Go up some intermediate terrain and throw a couple of bigger moves to get over a bulge. Sail up the rest of the pillar to the anchor. Named after the famous veggie market in Addis for all the plants pulled off the wall.

Ethiopia’s hardest sport climb has a long sustained crux with moves that most of us only see in the movies. Says Elad Omer, Addis Ababa resident pro climber: “you must be in Zohan shape” to mess with the Zohan.

Elad’s first contribution to the wall starts just below the graffiti. Before setting off, try asking yourself if you’d rather climb a Girogis or drink a Giorgis.

A bouldering start, then a rest before the crux that starts with a flat undercling pinch.

Use your balance to get through the start and pull jugs over the roof and up onto a large flake to the anchor. Classic 5.11 at AG and the easiest climb on Giorgis wall.

A continuous climbing with sidepulls.

First crux at the top of the dihedral, long reach on small holds, and an unexpected second crux below the chains. The Liger Army team put this satisfying line in under the chant “Liger Army Never Dies!”

3 hard moves between the first two bolts lead to an easier ending.

cool route with nice moves

technical and resistant

Follow the line of bolts to under the overhang.

Trad line up to the anchors of Perón Perón. You can also top-rope. Take care as the rock is breaking in some places.

Athletic 7a to the crossing with "great leap", then 6c. Superb.

Start as for Great leap downwards and trend left, then traverse under the overhangs to an anchor. Not very interesting, climbed to bolt the anchor.

Start on a 6b wall/slab, then possibility of belay before an 6c athletic section.

Start in the corner, below the small roof, clip the bolt and traverse right under the roof, then step over it. Straight up to the first anchors. Possibility to continue with one hard move (6c) and reach the top.

Three separate cruxes of easier sections

Nice crux at the 2nd bolt, then sustained 7a to the belay.

Some difficult moves in the corner lead to a rest before a superb ending. Make sure you tie a knot at the end of the rope. 60 meters rope just reaches the ground.

No hard crux, but a very sustained section. Caution, a 60 meters rope is just enough.

7a to a rest before the overhang. Still to open after the break of the best hold of the crux, Penelope will probably have to wait a long time... Make sure you tie a knot at the end of the rope. 60 meters rope just reaches the ground.

slightly overhanging wall, perfect rock, nice moves

Easiest route of the sector. Two starts possible, same difficulty.

Start as for Source then follow the bolts left under the overhang.

First route opened in the cliff, under the rain. A rest with a good jam after the crux.

Some athletic moves, then the crux where it's better to be able to raise your foot high.

Long obvious crack easy to protect. When the crack stop, traverse on the right. Belay on the tree.

Sit start and climb the flake on big holds until you get to the top of the flake. Top out to the left probably needs a pad or more courage.

Sit start and exit on a big pocket on top of the boulder

Grab the big holds and exit.

See details: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108135069/hyenas-secret