Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Bavella Punta Chjapponu | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Linéa d'ombra - with Franzi | 190m | Tue 28th Sep 2021 | |||||
Bavella Punta Rossa | ||||||||
6b | ★★ Eperon Sud | 250m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/eperon-sud-punta-rossa/
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ED | ★★★ La Célébration du lézard | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
TD | ★★★ Alexandra | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
Bavella Punta d’Arghjavara | ||||||||
6b | Torre di l’Alba | 140m | Wed 27th Apr 2022 | |||||
6a+ |
★ Altore
1
5c
2
5c
3
6a
4
6a
5
6a+
| 150m | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Jul 2023 | ||||
Lead all pitches. Pretty great route. Pitch four is the mega classic pitch with beautiful granite tufoni jugs! Last pitch includes the triple mantle! Wouldn’t recommend to climb without a 70m rope. Rope-drag gets pretty annoying at points.
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Bavella U Ponte Grossu | ||||||||
6a | Maquis toi | Don't Bother | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
5b ~5b+ | Le Démon de midi | Crap | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | |||||
5b ~5c | Le Démon de midi - with Thomas Gubler | Crap | Fri 20th Oct 2023 | |||||
6b | Trace de Pneumo | ★ Good | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | |||||
6b | Trace de Pneumo - with Thomas Gubler | Don't Bother | Fri 20th Oct 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ A capra di U Ponte Grossu | Wed 5th Jun 2019 | ||||||
5c | ★★ A capra di U Ponte Grossu | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Sep 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ A capra di U Ponte Grossu | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ A capra di U Ponte Grossu - with Thomas Gubler | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Oct 2023 | |||||
6c | ★★ Rends fou foune moi | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | |||||
6c | ★★ Rends fou foune moi | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
6c | ★★ Rends fou foune moi | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le cric du Mozambique | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le cric du Mozambique | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le cric du Mozambique - with Thomas Gubler | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Oct 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Le cric du Mozambique - with Yvonne | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | ||||||
6c | ★★ Il enfile Jean Mou | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | |||||
6c | ★★ Il enfile Jean Mou - with Thomas Gubler | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Oct 2023 | |||||
6c | ★★ Il enfile Jean Mou - with Yvonne | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | ||||||
6b | ★★ Il est où staffu ? - with Thomas Gubler | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Oct 2023 | |||||
6b | ★ L’Saint Esprit est tout tout puissant | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★ Le syndrôme du lézard | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Oct 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★ Le syndrôme du lézard - with Yvonne | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | ||||||
Bavella 3G | ||||||||
7c+ | ★★ Allez jump! | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Sep 2018 | |||||
7c | ★★ Elle restera dans mon anal | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Sep 2018 | |||||
Bavella Mescaline | ||||||||
7c+ | ★★ El Hueco | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Oct 2018 | |||||
7c | ★★★ La diagonal des fûts | ★★★ Classic | Wed 3rd Oct 2018 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ Merde mes pompes | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Sep 2018 | |||||
7b | ★★ T en formes | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Oct 2018 | |||||
Bavella Castellucciu | ||||||||
6a |
★★ Mistral gazeux
1
6a
45m
2
6a
20m
3
6a
15m
4
6a
15m
| 95m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Oct 2022 | ||||
5+ | ★★ La Perillat | 200m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Sep 2017 | ||||
5+ |
★★★ Super Picsou Géant
1
5
25 m
2
5+
35 m
3
5
40 m
4
4+
15 m
5
5
30 m
6
5+
25 m
7
5+
20 m
| 190m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Oct 2022 | ||||
Bavella Punta Lunarda | ||||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★★ Nirvana | 250m | Mon 11th Oct 2021 | |||||
6c+ |
★★★ Nirvana
1
6b
250m
2
6a+
3
6b+
4
6c+
5
6c+
6
4a
7
6c
| 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Aug 2022 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Nirvana | 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/punta-lunarda-nirvana/
We take of old bots this day, trad' route now.
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Bavella Teghie Lisce | ||||||||
7a | ★★★ Acqua in bocca - with ben carter | 300m | Sat 7th Nov 2015 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Acqua in bocca - with Ben Carter | 300m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Nov 2015 | ||||
Led in blocks, I did the first 5 pitches, Ben the rest.
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6c | ★★★ Avec etau et violon | 200m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 30th Aug 2022 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Porte des Cieux | 280m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/la-porte-des-cieux-teghie-lisce/
Hard for the grade !!!!!
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Bavella Punta di u Corbu South | ||||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Jeef | 240m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Oct 2021 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Jeef | 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Jeef | 240m | Tue 8th Oct 2019 | |||||
6c | ★★★ Le dos d'éléphant | 280m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Le dos d'éléphant | 280m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 18th Oct 2022 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Le dos d'éléphant | 280m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Sep 2022 | ||||
Bavella Punta di u Corbu East South-East | ||||||||
8b | Delicatessen | 170m, 14 | Sun 1st Jan 2012 | |||||
8b,7c+,7c,8a,6c
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8b | Delicatessen | 170m, 14 | 2017 | |||||
Bavella Col de Bavella Punta di l`Arghjetu | ||||||||
6a | ★★ Arete de Quenza - with ben carter | 270m | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
6a | ★★ Arete de Quenza - with Ben Carter | 270m | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||||
Bavella Col de Bavella Punta Macao | ||||||||
6a | Occitanista - with Franzi | 100m | Tue 28th Sep 2021 | |||||
5c | ★★★ Aioli bar - with Franzi | 90m | Mon 27th Sep 2021 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Aioli bar | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 20th Sep 2022 | ||||
5c | ★★★ Aioli bar - with ada | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | ||||
Bavella Col de Bavella Pilastru | ||||||||
6a | Sans nom | Tue 4th Jun 2019 | ||||||
6b |
★★★ Pilastru di l'alba
1
6a
50 m
2
6b
30 m
3
6a
50 m
4
5b
30 m
| 160m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Oct 2022 | ||||
Route: U Compulu:
Some very rusty bolts, but good placements available, take a lot of slings for the tafonis.
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6b | ★★★ Pilastru di l'alba | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | |||||
6a+ | West face of the needle | 7 | Wed 6th Jul 2016 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Luce Turchina | Wed 6th Jul 2016 | ||||||
Bavella Col de Bavella Punta Pícchíatu | ||||||||
6b | ★★ Excès de zèle | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Oct 2016 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Pas de bras, pas de chocolat - with pholz | Wed 25th May 2022 | ||||||
Steepest route i ever climbed outdoors, 30 meters of tafoni jugs, ~10 meters overhanging, maybe more. Rope drag is terrible, otherwise a unique experience which left me quite destroyed for the rest of the day.
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6b+ | ★★★ Pas de bras, pas de chocolat - with Markus | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th May 2022 | |||||
Flash attempt. No chocolate for me. Made it to the crux, then lost my way somewhat, fell and couldn't get back to the wall. No juice left for a second attempt... I can't imagine there are many routes of this grade in the world that are this steep.
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Bavella Col de Bavella Oriu | ||||||||
6c | ★ Le coup du coucou | ★ Good | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ 4 c mieux ! - with Markus | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th May 2022 | |||||
Nice tafoni route, steep but not ridiculously so
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6a+ | ★★★ 4 c mieux ! | Sun 29th May 2022 | ||||||
Steep and sweet
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6a+ | ★★★ 4 c mieux ! | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ Sans nom 8 - with Markus | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th May 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ Sans nom 8 | Sun 29th May 2022 | ||||||
Feels easier then the 6a+ to the right for me, might have a height advantage at the crux leaving the overhang though.
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5c | ★★★ Sans nom 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 19th Sep 2022 | |||||
Bavella Col de Bavella Paterla Nera | ||||||||
6a+ | ★ Veghja chi passa (Unnamed 3) - with Luke Franzke | ★ Good | Mon 4th Sep 2017 | |||||
Bavella Col de Bavella Campanella | ||||||||
6a | ★★ Mare nostru - with Marion Lemetayer | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Feb 2024 | |||||
6a+ | L'ora bella - with Pia | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||||
6a+ | L'ora bella | Thu 7th Jul 2016 | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Unnamed 1 | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Unnamed 1 - with Pia | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Unnamed 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Unnamed 1 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Unnamed 1 | ★ Good | Mon 9th Oct 2023 | |||||
7a | ★★ Roc and folie | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st May 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Don Diedro direct | Fri 27th May 2022 | ||||||
6a | ★★ Don Diedro direct - with Markus | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th May 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Don Diedro direct | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st May 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Don Diedro direct - with Pia | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Jul 2022 | |||||
5c | ★★★ Don Diedro | Thu 28th Apr 2022 | ||||||
5c | ★★★ Don Diedro | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
5c | ★★★ Don Diedro | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | |||||
6b | ★★ Le toit des pompiers | Fri 27th May 2022 | ||||||
2nd go, mainly an overhanging boulder Problem
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6b | ★★ Le toit des pompiers - with Markus | ★★★ Classic | Fri 27th May 2022 | |||||
Varied, with a steep overhang and an interesting dihedral
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6b | ★★ Le toit des pompiers - with Pia | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Jul 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ Le toit des pompiers | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Sep 2022 | |||||
6b | ★★ Le toit des pompiers | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | |||||
Slap overhang crack sloper all in one. Perfect
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6a+ | ★★ Ultima Sprinta | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Sep 2017 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Ultima Sprinta | Thu 28th Apr 2022 | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ultima Sprinta | Fri 27th May 2022 | ||||||
Very steep for the grade and fascinating rock
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6a+ | ★★ Ultima Sprinta - with Markus | ★ Good | Fri 27th May 2022 | |||||
I guess you'll like it if you're into routes that are obscenely steep for their grade... Would not recommend as a last route of the day... But the rock is beautiful to look at.
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