Kichwa Tembo All Trad climbing 5 routes in crag

Climb a chimney, step L and shortly move back R into chimney; go up for 3m., move L onto the arete and up to small cave stance (35m.).

The chimney to a platform at top (20m.);

the L wall can be climbed in the middle section of this pitch. Step R (thread runner) and climb a quartz band, moving R on slabbier ground to belay block on nose (20m.).

Now L across slabs, then easier rock leads to ridge (30m.).

Var: the quartz band can be climbed direct (excellent, V I-). Follow ridge across a crevice to base of the final step.

Either climb this (The Link), or scramble down a gully on L for 40m. to a tree on the R wall, from where a 45m. abseil leads into South Gully. It is also possible to abseil down the climb itself.

A superb chimney climb; long pitches of fine bridging on good rock. The line is obvious, briefly as follows.

Enter chimney with difficulty, then 2 ways are evident for the 2nd pitch: at a narrowing, climb face to L (VI-) till it is possible to regain chimney, or avoid the face by going deep into chimney and climbing in semi-darkness (IV). The 4th pitch involves a hard move L round a chockstone (V+). Near the top stay on the outside of chimney. For continuations, see Covenant.

L of Great Tsavo Chimney another chimney splits the E face but does not reach the ground. Falcon (well-protected, exposed, VI- **) climbs this area of rock: a slab leads to base of the wall which is climbed by steep cracks trending R. A ramp system slanting to R leads to the chimney which is followed for 5m., then a slab on R leads to a hidden ledge with tree; steep cracks above L end of ledge lead to the top.

A fine continuation to Covenant, the Great Tsavo Chimney or Falcon, taking steep exposed slabs R of the headwall. Although not technically hard, the poor belay, sparse protection, difficult route finding and complex rope handling make this a serious route. Step across Great Tsavo Chimney to a ledge; move 2m. R to a spike then climb direct to a grassy ledge on L and poor belay, peg (10m.). Move R onto slabs and climb these trending initially slightly R; after 2 mantelshelf moves, go L and down across a holdless slab to reach easier ground above. If climbing on a double 9mm. rope it is best now to untie from one of them, join them together and continue up the much easier ground to a belay a long way back (55m.).

Mastadon and Behemoth are situated on the E face proper. Both provide excellent wall climbing rarely exceeding V -. Belays and protection however need a lot of care. A small selection of pegs is recommended for Mastadon.

Start R of the biv. boulders, where a tree 1 0 m. up has roots hanging down to the ground. Climb the roots then a chimney to a small niche (35m.). Go up to a overhang, traverse 3m. R onto a blunt arete and follow this to a steepening. Traverse back L to a corner (30m.). Go back R then up diagonally R till a line of holds is taken diagonally L (hard), then a wall to a small L-facing comer and hanging belay below a ledge (30m.). From ledge go L then 5m. direct to big holds. So L again (difficult) to runners, then up 2m. and L again. Several more L-then- up moves lead to a ramp which crosses face from L to R. Belay on ramp, L of a thin semi-detached rock pillar, pegs (40m.). Climb ramp to a good ledge(45m.). Go up diagonally L across slabs to top of a second, higher ramp line; block belay (25m.). Move up then R following an arching crack to reach a grassy overhang; surmount this (hard) to base of a chimney cutting the headwall (25m.). Climb chimney to small ledge (35m.). The chimney narrows to a crack; bridge over narrowing into a niche (runners), step onto L wall and climb a slab above trending L (45m.). A sustained and poorly protected pitch.

Start 40m. R of Mastadon, at the bottom of a long L-facing chimney. Climb this for 6 m., traverse onto wall R and take this over a bulge to a big ledge (40m.). Go up direct for 40m. first trending L then R. Traverse 6 m. L to a ledge above a band of roofs (45m.). The next belay is directly above on a big ledge and can be reached either directly, or more easily by moving L and up to a spike, then back R and straight up, pegs (45m.). Climb L on easier slabs; after 20m. pass the belay ledge at end of the Mastadon ramp pitch. Continue to block belay as for Mastadon pitch 6 (45m.). Traverse horizontally L below the headwall till you can almost see the Great Tsavo Chimney. Take the wall above (unprotected) till a hard move L leads to a hanging belay from a spike and nut, level with top of Great Tsavo Chimney (45m.). Ascend to easier ground and go up L to a ledge overlooking the top of Great Tsavo Chimney, some 12m. below (30m.). Continue as for pitch 2 of The Link (55m.).