Custom PDF
Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
Summary
Description
Overhung
Slab
Vertical
Afternoon sun
North West
South West
The largest and most attractive crag in Montenegro, boasting climbing routes up to 35m in height. At the moment there are about 80 routes. It has a width of 250 m. There are abundant opportunities for equipping hard overhanging routes. The crag is characterized by a large number of tufas, in a style that blasts your core and works body-tension to the max.
Best time for climbing is from early spring to late autumn. Owing to its north-western orientation the rock is not warmed up by the sun during the winter months, except its left south-western section (sector A). The rock also seeps a lot more this time of year due to lots of rainy days.
During the summer months the crag is in the shade till 2 p.m. (sectors B&C have shade until 3-4 p.m.) and offers more than enjoyable climbing even when the temperatures in Podgorica reach their maximum.
©Access issues
The crag is on private property. The landowner permits climbing on the condition that climbers respect the nature, don't leave any litter, don't start any campfires, and no camping under the walls, and under no circumstances no climbing or bolting routes in the first big cave between sectors D and E.
©Approach
Gentle
10-20 min
The crag can be reached along the road Podgorica-Kolašin, 5 kms away from the centre of Podgorica, heading towards Kolašin. At the first bridge over the Morača River, turn right to the narrow asphalt road (easy to miss) where after 100m there is a small pullout for about 5 cars. Once parked, backtrack for 50m up the road where the obvious trail starts up an incline. It takes 10 minutes to get from the parking area to the crag. In the summer bug spray is a must, and the long grasses on the approach get annoying so if your skin is sensitive you might want to wear pants.
©Where to stay
There are multiple hostels just across the river, maybe 15 minutes walk to the parking area, across the bridge. The first hostel is Izvor, that offers rooms as well as camping. Apparently this one has a small kitchen for guests to use.
Autokamp Titograd is your other option, just down the road a little further past the gas station. The family that runs it are super accommodating, wonderful people. Private rooms with one or two beds, AC, and private bathrooms. A common area with a coffee and drink bar and another one with ping pong and a half-working massage chair. Laundry facilities for a few bucks. You even have private access to the river below via a steep driveway, complete with chairs to lounge in by the water. Check out the routes down here too, on this site under the crag Titograd.They allow camping, big camper vans (complete with powered sites) and are friendly to bikers. The only downside of this hostel is no common kitchen for cooking your own food, which really sucks for visiting climbers that need a room to stay in. There are multiple grocery stores a few minutes drive into town though that have a full hot bar of food for cheap.
©Ethic
New route potential
Do not use the bathroom underneath the walls or inside the cave. Do not leave toilet paper. No bolting in or immediately around the cave, per the landowner.
©History
Smokavac has been developed since around 2005-2006. Founding members of the Outdoor Club Podgorica (OCP) Vanja Pejovic, Ivan Lakovic, Milos Pavicevic, Nojan Boskovic and Novica Cupic discovered the awesome potential of this crag so close to the capital city. Upon coming to the wall they saw a few routes with homemade bolts and big runouts. These routes marked with yellow lines were equipped by unknown climbers from Slovakia during the 2005 summer. The club and other local climbers got to work bolting and rebolting, establishing most of the routes in the crag. Other climbers contributing routes include Klemen Becan, Stefan Lieb Lind, Andrej Grmovsek, Valentin Sattek, and Srdjan Lecic.
©Tags
Plan your Trip
Some content has been provided under license from: © montenegroclimbing ()
Hello!
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question
Thu 27 Apr
Check out what is happening in Smoki - Smokovac.
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
- Ticks by climbers like you
- Discussions of the community
- Updates to the index by our users
- and many more things.
Login to see the timeline!