Showing all 11 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 | ★ Heads And Tails
Begin in the crack to the right (as for Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC. FA: Grant Davidson & John Dawson, 1984 | 20m, 3 | |||
15 | Hjar
Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top. DBC. FA: Rick McGregor & Geoff Mead, 1975 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Hobbledehoy
The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone. FA: Robbie McBirney, 1974 | 20m | |||
15 | ★★ Diabolo
The fist crack right of "C.J.D Arete", climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack. FA: Robbie McBirney & Geoff Shekell, 1974 | 20m | |||
19 | Queen of hearts
A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M." FA: Graeme Dingle & Sarah Moodie, 1997 | 30m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Mihna
The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on "J.E.M." helps with otherwise lean protection. FA: Rick McGregor, 1974 | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Sparmid
Start as for "J.E.M.", and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and get established in the crack. At the top of the crack there is a crack that leads diagonally up to the right to the anchors of "Fight or Slight". While airy it is easily protected to get up to use these anchors to abseil off. Originally either used a tree tree belay or exited to the left to the anchors of J.E.M. which created drag with an up and over redirect. FA: Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley & John Watson, 1972 | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Mātatatata whānui
Climb the large crack with large chock stone to the right of "Fight or Slight", follow the line of weakness to the large offwidth on the right. Get into the crack, you'll need a #6 or big bro to protect the large offwidth and watch for loose chock stones. Shortly after the chockstones in the off width crack exit on the left side of the crack to the platform by the anchors of Fight or Slight. FA: Andy Baird & Eric Horn, 28 Mar 2021 Set: Andy Baird & Eric Horn, 28 Apr 2021 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Wobble
Climb the short offwidth to the right of the gully, then head right, up the hanging corner to gain a large ledge. Beware of loose rock. Continue up the offwidth with a chockstone above, finish to the right of the arete. There are rap chains behind the large blocks. FA: Rick McGregor & Cado Avenali, 1974 | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Ridin' the 868
Wondered how no-one had climbed this beautiful looking crack up to the obvious anchors. Discovered when I needed my 8, then my 6, then bumped my 8 up higher. Crux is getting up and over the chock stone, had a good attempt at lifting and moving it on the descent, no movement. Would be a 16 without the crux, so if the chock stone goes may be easier. FA: Andy Baird, Rick Chen & Natalie Bunkieyarge, 17 Feb | 15m | |||
16 | ★★ Futtick
The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock. FA: Gordon Mather & John Watson, 1972 | 35m |
Showing all 11 routes.