Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
United States Alaska The Arrigetch Peaks Arthur Emmons | |||||
West Ridge
FA: Jonathan Krakauer & Bill Bullard, 1974 | |||||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Denali | |||||
Class 3/4 | ★★★ West Buttress
1
Alaska 2+
2
Class 3/4
The West Buttress has been derided as "the Denali Iditarod" or "the Scenic Loop." However, this is in context to Denali being fondly referred to as the "Mid-life Crisis Mountain" --- in 2011, the average age of a Denali climber was exactly 40 years old. While there is always some truth to nicknames, many people aspire to climb the West Buttress and the climb is undoubtedly considered as an exceptional mountaineering challenge. Nowhere in the world does one travel with so much gear over so much vertical in such a hostile environment. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of "The Butt" leave very little margin for error (the lower glacier in warm conditions, Windy Corner, the Autobahn, Denali Pass, and the Summit Ridge). Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to Denali's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses. (from summitpost.org) FA: Bradford Washburn, 1951 | 4000m | |||
AI3 | West Rib
1
Alaska 4
2
AI3
For some Denali afficionados, the West Rib is the next step after completing the West Buttress or Karstens Ridge, but it represents a significant step up in skill and experience. The route involves moderate to steep snow as well as mixed snow and rock. The West Rib is a commiting route, but does offer retreat/escape points along the way. The West Rib offers steeper climbing and fewer crowds then its neighbor to the west. The Rib is not known for its technical challenges, but more for its sustained steepness and appeal for climbing on Denali's south face. The West Rib offers two variations --- the Complete West Rib or the West Rib Cutoff. The complete Rib starts in the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and is the most dangerous portion of the climb with respect to objective hazards (avalanche, crevasse). If conditions allow entrance into the NE fork, then a 9,000 ft ridge climb comprises the Complete West Rib. Most climbers choose to do the West Rib Cutoff, which ascends the standard West Buttress route until 14,200 ft. At 14,000 ft you leave the crowds of the West Buttress and traverse to the West Rib gaining the ridge at around 15,700 ft. You then ascent the upper ridge making one camp along the way. FA: Peter Sinclair, Jake Breitenbach, Barry Corbet & Bill Buckingham, 1959 | 2800m | |||
5.8 AI4 | Cassin Ridge
1
Alaska 5
2
5.8
3
AI4
The Cassin Ridge is today considered a "50 Classic" of North America and was first climbed in 1961 by a group led by Italian alpinist Riccardo Cassin, for which the route is named. The Cassin Ridge rises 8000 feet from the very bottom of Denali's South face to within a few yards of the true summit of the mountain. Steep snow, ice, and mixed climbing make this one of the most sought-after big mountain alpine climbs in the world. Climbers completing the Cassin Ridge find themselves in a small fraternity of elite Alaska climbers. The route ascends the prominent ridge on the south face and is steep, demanding, and committing --- escape routes are few and far between. As a result, only the most experienced climbers will think of attempting it. FA: Ricardo Cassin, Luigi Airoldi, Luigi Alippi, Giancarlo Canali, Romano Perego & Annibale Zucchi, 1961 | 2500m | |||
Class 3/4 | Muldrow Glacier
1
Alaska 3
2
Class 3/4
The Karstens Ridge/Muldrow Glacier was the route of first ascent and used to be the standard route before Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route. This route is similar in difficulty as the West Buttress, but receives far less traffic. Expeditions are, on average, a week longer than West Buttress trips because of the longer approach from Wonder Lake. More adventurous climbers will attempt "the Traverse," by ascending the West Buttress and descending Karstens Ridge or vice versa. The Traverse is more strenuous than doing either route alone because climbers must haul all equipment and supplies over Denali Pass whereas climbers doing one route or another typically cache equipment and supplies that are not needed higher up on the mountain. FA: Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens & Robert Tatum, 1913 | 4000m | |||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Mt. Hunter | |||||
{FR} TD | ★★ West Ridge
A long ridge / ice climb with ice up to 70 degrees. Total time up to 7 days. Vertical gain 2,450m climbing distance 8,000m. Alaska grade 3+. FA: Harrer Meybohm, Heinrich Harrer, Fred Beckey & Henry Mehbohm, 1954 | 2500m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ North Buttress
A3, 5.9 mixed and vertical to overhanging ice. Hanging bivouacs (porta-ledge) or small ledges. FA: Mugs Stump & Paul Aubrey, 1981 FA: Todd Bibler & Doug Klewin, 1983 | 1900m | |||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Ruth Gorge Mooses Tooth | |||||
WI4 M4 V | ★★★ Ham And Eggs
1
V
2
WI4 M4
This uber-classic couloir route is the most crowded on the Tooth, and probably sits second in popularity within the Range only to the West Buttress of Denali. Climb M3-AI3 and easy snow to a few crux options around 300m up. The FA variant through slabs and snow mushrooms is rarely done. Instead, chose between the left ice at WI4 (funnels sluff and spindrift) or the crack system at M4 on the right. Continue up moderate ice and snow to the col, where the fixed rap anchors disappear. Move onwards over a corniced ridge to the summit. The descent involves 20-22 rappels from the col, and bypasses the leftwards dogleg of the first pitch by rappelling straight down. FA: Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies & Nate Zinsser, 1975 | 970m | |||
WI5 M5/6 V | ★★★ Shaken Not Stirred
1
V
2
WI5
3
M5/6
While slightly harder than Ham And Eggs, this route tends to hold higher quality ice due to being more shaded, and you get to get away from the crowds. Note, however, that if you are climbing behind other parties, the upper pitches through "The Narrows" offer no reprieve from falling ice for both leader and belayer, and even snow from parties on the col will be funnelled down hundreds of meters. In good conditions, the entire crux is a slightly overhanging curtain of ice. In leaner years there may be almost no ice, however the mixed climbing is well protected. Rap on plentiful rock anchors. A 70m rope will hit bullseye more often than a 60m. Do not rap the first 2-3 pitches due to poor pro, instead move climbers right and rap from a chockstone over the rocky buttress. | 900m | |||
Class 4 V | West Ridge
1
Class 4
2
V
Complex and often heavily corniced ridge traverse that rises from the Ruth Glacier and continues past the West Summit of the Tooth to the Main Summit. After passing the West Summit, both commitment and complexity of the route increase. FA: Klaus Bierl et. al., 1964 | 1600m | |||
FR:6a M7 | Bird of Prey
FA: David Lama † & Dani Arnold, Apr 2015 | 1500m | |||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Ruth Gorge Mount Huntington | |||||
West Face | |||||
5.9 A2 VI | Harvard Route
FA: David Roberts, Ed Bernd, Don Jensen & Matt Hale, 1965 | ||||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Ruth Gorge Mount Barrille | |||||
The Japanese Couloir
FA: Teruaki Segawa, Kensei Suga, Masayuki Suemasa & Eiji Tsai, 1976 | |||||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Mt. Capps | |||||
Class 3 | East Ridge From Kahiltna Pass
Follow the ridge. Some crevasse danger. | 450m | |||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Mt. Frances | |||||
Class 3/4 | East Ridge
From base camp head to the obvious col between Frances and Peak 12,200. Climb 200m of 60-degree snow, then follow the ridge up. Keep in mind that the ridge is often crevassed and you will need to down-solo the start couloir as there aren't many options for leaving anchors. | 1100m | |||
United States Alaska Denali National Park Mt. Foraker | |||||
Class 4 ALSK:3 | Sultana Ridge | 3800m | |||
WI4 M5 ALSK:6 | Infinite Spur | 3500m | |||
United States Alaska Devil's Thumb | |||||
5.10 | Direct East Ridge
FA: Fred Beckey, Bob Craig & Cliff Schmidtke, 1946 | ||||
United States Alaska Mount Fairweather | |||||
Southeast Ridge
FA: Allen Carpé & Terris Moore, 1931 | |||||
United States Arizona Southeast Arizona Cochise Stronghold East Stronghold Rockfellow Domes End Pinnacle, South Face | |||||
5.11b III | Magnas Veritas | ||||
5.10 III | ★★ Days of Future Passed | ||||
5.10d III | ★★ Welcome to the Machine | ||||
5.10c III | Poetry in Motion | ||||
United States Arizona Southeast Arizona Cochise Stronghold East Stronghold Rockfellow Domes End Pinnacle, North Face | |||||
5.11a III | Cap'n Pissgums | ||||
5.11c III | Uncarved Block | ||||
United States Arizona Southeast Arizona Cochise Stronghold East Stronghold Rockfellow Domes Rockfellow Dome | |||||
5.11a III | Abracadaver | ||||
5.12a III | Jabberwock | ||||
United States Arizona Southeast Arizona Cochise Stronghold East Stronghold Rockfellow Domes Bastion Tower | |||||
5.10b II | ★★★ Forest Lawn/Pair A Grins | 2 | |||
United States Arizona Southeast Arizona Cochise Stronghold West Stronghold Westworld Dome | |||||
5.10c III | ★★★ Warpaint | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Mount Lemmon Chimney Rock | |||||
5.7 I | ★ Standard Route | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Pusch Ridge Leviathan Dome | |||||
5.9 III | User Friendly | ||||
5.10c III | ★★★ North Face | ||||
5.12a III | Over the Rainbow | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Pusch Ridge Solitude Pinnacle | |||||
5.9 III | The Deep | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Pusch Ridge Wilderness Dome | |||||
5.10 III | Rivendell | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Pusch Ridge Table Mountain | |||||
5.8 III | ★★★ Cherry Jam | ||||
5.9 III | ★★★ Crescent Crack | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Mendoza Canyon Elephant Dome | |||||
5.7 II | ★★ Elephant' Trunck | ||||
5.10c III | Elephantiasis | ||||
United States Arizona Tucson Mendoza Canyon Table Dome | |||||
5.9 III | Wily Javelina | 210m, 6 | |||
5.10a III | Table for Two | 240m, 6 | |||
5.9 III | Beggar's Banquet | 230m, 5 | |||
United States Arizona Tucson Baboquivari Peak | |||||
5.6 III | ★★ Southeast Arete | ||||
5.9 III | Don's Crack | ||||
5.6 II | Forbes-Montoya | ||||
5.10c III | Born of Water | ||||
5.10a III | ★★ Cloud Man Got Angry | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Four Peaks | |||||
5.6 II | ★★★ Gymnastic Endeavor
Great climb. Shares start with ladybug, but then continues straight towards the highest summit of the wall. Climbed it in two super long pitches on the FA, but there are spots to belay if you have a problem with rope drag. Gear is decent on the 1st, questionable on the 2nd. Successive overhangs and runout gear on the 2nd pitch keep it interesting. Needs traffic to get rid of some loose rock on the second pitch. FA: Andrew Harris & Jacob Hess | 110m | |||
5.5 II | The Ladybug | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Closed White Tank Mountain Fall Factor Wall | |||||
5.6 II | Potent Pudding
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5.6 II | Milkrun
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5.6 II | ★★ Sneak and Destroy
starts slightly left of Cactus Candy. 1st pitch: Head straight up staying out of gullies. Mostly protected face climbing on decent gear. Should you fall though, things could get interesting. It's a full ropelength pitch,which should put you on a pretty good belay spot. 5.5 2nd pitch: Keep heading up from belay more face climbing to runout overhanging crux. make the last piece before the crux count, the next placement comes at a sketchy stance immediately following the crux. belay from the tree. 5.6R 3rd Pitch: fourth class to the summit FA: Andrew Harris & Jacob Hess, 2007 | 110m | |||
5.7 II | Snorfy Elaticor
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5.7 II | The Jaws Of Rockomatic
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5.8 II | Attila The Hun
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5.6 II | ★ Owlshit Crack
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United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Siphon Draw Hobgoblin Spires | |||||
5.7 II | ★★ Rink-Kudo | ||||
5.10a III | Mish Monster (via Dan's Birthday Route) | ||||
5.9 III | Grandfather Hobgoblin | ||||
5.6 III | Totgoblin | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Siphon Draw North Buttress | |||||
5.8 III | ★★★ Spider Walk | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Siphon Draw Los Banditos Towers | |||||
5.5 II | Monster Mash | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Southern Superstition Cliffs The Acropolis | |||||
5.8 III | The Odyssey | ||||
5.11b III | South Face | ||||
5.7 III | Southeast Ridge | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Southern Superstition Cliffs Carney Springs Wall | |||||
5.7 III | DeGrazia | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Southern Superstition Cliffs Bark Canyon Wall | |||||
5.8 III | ★★ The Long Lead | ||||
5.9 III | ★★ Big Bruno | ||||
5.10a III | Stoke It Gently | ||||
5.7 III | ★★ The Glory Road | ||||
5.9 III | The Long Road | ||||
5.11b III | Bandito Route | ||||
5.10b III | Erection Direct | ||||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Southern Superstition Cliffs Zonerland Weavers Needle | |||||
5.4 III | ★★★ West Chimney
Classic approach:
Down: There is a big anchor left (on your way down) for a rappel to the top of pitch 3, then hike down, down climb the short wall to the anchor on top of pitch 2 (chock stone) and rappel from there. With a 200 feet rope you reach the lower steel pipe and you can scramble down but you can also do an intermediate anchor with a shorter rope. Equipment: take some slings and some medium size cams to protect at least pitch 2, 200 feet (60m) rope recommended | 180m, 4 | |||
United States Arizona Phoenix Superstition Mountains Southern Superstition Cliffs Zonerland Miners Needle | |||||
5.8 III | Rockabilly | ||||
5.8 III | Pokey Dance | ||||
5.9 III | Pseudonym | ||||
5.7 III | The Anonymous | ||||
United States Arizona Prescott Granite Mountain Swamp Slabs | |||||
5.6 II | ★★ Green Horns | ||||
United States Arizona Prescott Granite Mountain Middle Section | |||||
5.11 II | C. W. Hicks (Direct) | ||||
5.9 II | ★★★ Magnolia Thunder Pussy
FA: Karl Karlstrom, David Lovejoy & Scott Baxter | ||||
5.8 II | ★★★ Green Savior | ||||
5.10 III | ★★★ Kingpin | ||||
5.10 III | Waterstreak Delight | ||||
5.9 III | ★★★ Coatimundi Whiteout - Candyland Finish | ||||
5.10- III | Candyland | ||||
5.7 II | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10 III | ★★★ Slammer Jam | ||||
5.10- II | ★★★ Reunion | ||||
5.9 II | ★★★ Said and Done | ||||
United States Arizona Prescott Granite Mountain Right Section | |||||
5.9 II | ★★ Chieu Hoi | ||||
5.10d II | ★★★ Thin Slice | ||||
5.10a II | For Pete, Thanks | 67m, 2 | |||
5.8 II | Bleak Streak | ||||
United States Arizona Flagstaff Sedona Mormon Canyon | |||||
5.10 IV | ★★★ Earth Angel | ||||
United States Arizona Flagstaff Sedona Oak Creek Spire Area | |||||
5.9 III | ★★★ North Face | 110m | |||
United States Arizona Flagstaff Sedona Coffee Pot Area Summit Block Rock | |||||
5.9 II | ★★★ Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride | ||||
United States Arizona Flagstaff Volunteer Canyon | |||||
5.10c III | ★★★ Volunteer Spire
FA: Jeff Kennedy & Albert Newman | 70m | |||
United States Arizona Flagstaff Mount Elden Elysian Buttress | |||||
5.7 III | ★★ Elysian Buttress |