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Routes in Mpumalanga for selected grade

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Showing all 52 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Jack’s Playground
14 Jack and Jill

In the descent gully on left. Start at the same base as Jack In A Box but veers up left to the hanging bolts.

Set: Alan Hughes, Dec 2015

Top rope
14 Jack in a Box

In the descent gully on left. Starts from the centre of the shelf and follows bolts direct to the top.

Set: Alan Hughes, Dec 2015

Sport 7
14 Requiem For A Yellowwood

Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face.

FA: Wes Makovini, Jun 2015

Sport
Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Burning Man Walls
14 Girl All The Bad Guys Want

[N, A] Hidden in the corridor just left of 'Blue Stingray Boots'. Busts up the obvious crack in the stack. Fun fun fun. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016

Trad
Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Animal Farm Sector
14 ZUNGUZUNGUGUZUNGGUZENG

Starts around the corner from BROWN TOWN, climb the obvious ledgey corner to the top. Was not cleaned, no loose rock but a fair amount of grass.

FA: K. Richards, R. McCallum & A. Barerio, Sep 2020

Trad
14 Boxer's Cruel Death

4m right of 'Chikamasa'. Climb the jagged wide crack past the tree on one's right and up to a cubby capped by a small roof. Beware of the razor edge on your rope and runners. Top out and anchor on a shrub in the veld.

FA: A. Bareiro, Sep 2020

Trad
Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags The Library
14 Pigs in Heaven

9m right of 'The Raven' at the rock step (same as 'Poisonwood Bible'). Climb up and diagonally left to anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

Sport 5
Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Wildfire
14 Ten Commandments

Take your thinking cap - very technical and balancey. Starts up a crease 2m right of 'Smoke At Dawn' at 'Bush Fire'. Step up left after 4th bolt toward the arête to finish at 'Smoke At Dawn' anchors.

FA: Clive Curson & Jette Bollerup, Aug 2017

Sport 8
Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Als Bells Area
14 Flash

About 3m right of the cracks is a large right-facing corner.

FA: Uriel Boeckheler, Nathanael Boeckheler, Anita Boeckheler, Tobias Boeckheler, Viviana Boeckheler & Clive Curson, Aug 2017

Sport 11
Waterval Boven Tranquilitas The Creche
14 Jackie Chan

Start inside a straddle width chimney 20m right of the obvious 'The Huffing Warthog' crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face going slightly left.

FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Sport 10
14 Feel Good

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at 'The Creche'.

FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

Sport 15m, 7
Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Baboon Buttress
14 A.S

Climbs the chimney just right of 'After Thoughts' corner. A grovel.

Sport 6
14 Baboons in Boardshorts

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

Sport 7
Waterval Boven Wonderland Area Hallucinogenic Wall
14 Forest Glump

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on 'Face in the Trough'

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney, 2000

Sport 10
14 Clockwork Orange Variation

Starts two meters left of rocky and joins 'Clockwork Orange' after 2nd bolt.

FA: D Margetts & A Margetts, 2009

Sport 8
14 The Ladder

Right of the aboveS

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Sport 13
Waterval Boven Wonderland Area The Theatre
14 2b or not 2b

A fairly moderate way to the highest ledge (80% up) in the middle of this impressive amphitheatre. Starting 3m left of 'Centre Stage', go up to the diagonal break leading back to the main corner. Last move to the lower anchors is the crux. Extend draws in the mid-section.

FA: Arielle & Talia Behr, 2018

Sport 12
Waterval Boven Triple Tier Crags The Gym
14 Like a Box of Chocolates

Take a rucksack for the lead rope. IYWITSD. This route is protected by ringbolts, starting from 2, just above and downstream of the following 2 routes. If you deviate a metre left at the crux, the grade goes down to 11/12 - still fun, though.

FA: Chris Vind, 1995

Sport 9
Waterval Boven The Island Never Never Land
14 Pixie Dust

Immediately right, around the corner from 'Tinkerbell'. Climb grey rippled face. easier if you use the corner.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

Trad
Waterval Boven Sport Valley The Pasture
14 The Crack

The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains.

FA: Rupert Leigh, 1994

Sport 5
Waterval Boven Sport Valley Flying is Fun
14 Recovery Room

The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Sport 7
14 Fly By Night

Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Sport 6
14 (bolts 2)

First bolt-line left of the crack.

Sport 9m, 4
14 (bolts 4)

2nd bolt-line from the crack, left of the U-bolts up the left-side of the arête.

Might be Inspektor Bliksem Neer?

Sport 9m, 4
Waterval Boven Sport Valley The Other Side
14 Weigh-Less Crack

On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack; if you are thin enough climb it!

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

Sport 7
14 Voyager

3m right of 'Frequent Flyer' on the same face.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

Sport 11
14 Curse of the Armadillo

A few metres right of 'Nearly Headless Nick'. Climb the cracks up the slab and exit left.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

Trad
Waterval Boven The Waterfall Crags Toon Town
14 Slanting Crack

Climb the rightward slanting crack.

Trad
14 Fred's Cornflake Collection

Climb the big flake line right of 'Minnie Mouse Menopause'

FA: A Gillet & Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1992

Trad
14 Kill the Wabbit

Climb the on-balance wall right of 'Fred's Cornflake Collection'. Move right towards the arête to the broken crack half way up, then straight up.

FA: A Gillet & Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1992

Trad
The Hell The West Face
14 Dads Day Off
Trad 150m
The Hell Barbel Pool Crag
14 Grammy! We Want to Go Fishing
Trad 26m
Sabie Gorge Donkerhoek
14 Piece of Cake

To the right of TSC. Follow the obvious line from the bottom and share last bolt and anchors with TSC. First bolt is rather high, but easy.

FA: Tania Louw, 2004

Sport 7
14 - 17 Kid’s Arête

Start in a little corner where there is an overhang on your left with a knobbly face above it. Start on the right and climb unto the face on the left as soon as possible. Go to the arête ASAP with your feet on the little bulge as far down as you can. Climb the arête to the anchors. The further left you stay the more difficult it is – the further right, the easier.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2003

Sport 7
14 Kid’s Corner

The same as KA and share the same bolts with it. Stay on the face, though, and use different anchors as well as the last 2 bolts.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 1996

Sport 9
Sabie Gorge Treebeard’s Towers
14 Long Drop

Starts in the same recess as BF. The face on the right. Steeper than it looks but with good holds.

FA: Tania Louw, 2005

Sport 8
14 Jungle Gym

The last climb on Treebeard’s Towers. Climbs the easy lichen covered steps to the right of HFH. Steps left after the forth bolt and shares last and anchors with HFH

FA: Jens Kock, 2006

Sport 7
Blyde River Canyon Rondawel Complex Lake View Crags
14 Slippery When Wet

FA: Greg Devine, S. Devine, Dave Chesney, T. Wilmot & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Trad 40m
Manoutsa/Strijdom Tunnel Main Crag
14 YEBO-GOGO
1 13 50m
2 14 15m
3 14 40m
4 13 40m
5 13 25m

FA: Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & A Lynch, 1995

Trad 170m, 5
Manoutsa/Strijdom Tunnel Double Green
14 RATBAG
1 13 25m
2 14 25m
3 13 25m
4 13 30m

FA: L Costa & T Willmot, 1997

Trad 110m, 4
Botshabelo Monolith Ben Amera
{FR} FB_ALT:4 El Desperado

Stand start on the left using the obvious foot rails and divot. Move up on shallow divots.

FA: Ale, Nov 2022

Boulder
Botshabelo Monolith Perfect Rock
{FB} FB_ALT:4 Ice

Sit start and climb arete.

Boulder
Buffalo Gorge
14 A Man Called Horse

This route will be sheer enjoyment for first-time climbers, as well as experienced climbers, especially after the abseil with the adrenaline still pumping through your veins. This route starts about 5m to the left of the dripping waterfall below the ‘Ryk se Klip’ abseil up the left corner of the gully. The first 7 meters might be a bit wet and slippery up to a big tree. From there onwards it’s just fantastic climbing between two spectacular rock faces all the way to the top. * A top-rope can be rigged from the top.

FA: Sarel Petrus, Andrew Harvey & Vickus Prinsloo, 2010

Sport 30m, 12
NGwempisi George Coffee Shop
14 Nine Stone Handicap

FA: C. Othenin-Girard, Gareth Frost & Nicole Hemphill, 2004

Trad 20m
14 When the Tiger Broke Free

FA: M. Sporen & L. Jackson, 2004

Trad 25m
Gold Rush Nuggets
FB_ALT:4 Easy Groove

FFA: Neil Margetts

Boulder
FB_ALT:4 Decent Route

FFA: Neil Margetts, 2006

Boulder
Gold Rush Cartoon Land
FB_ALT:4 Mr. Furious

Stand start on sloppy grips and climb into short crack formed by flake. While keeping away from the big chicken heads on the right, climb straight up crack to top out.

FFA: Dave Johns, 2006

Boulder
Gold Rush The Potholes
FB_ALT:4 Who Nose

Sit start, climb up nose of rock to top out.

FFA: Helen Clements, 2006

Boulder
FB_ALT:4 Grumps

Start in back of crack under crimps. Move up then traverse right with feet along ledge and up.

FFA: Neil Margetts, 2005

Boulder
FB_ALT:4 Smiley Face Rock

Low sit start and up centre of pocketed face to top out.

FFA: Neil Margetts, 2006

Boulder
White Rock
14 Beautiful Sky

The climb starts 2m to the right of 'Dragon' go straight over the bulge

FA: Sean Cue, 14 Jun 2021

Sport 20m, 11

Showing all 52 routes.

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