Barrier Buttress All Trad climbing 20 routes in cliff

A pleasant if somewhat disjointed route up the north side of Barrier. Start at a large triangular block about 6m left of Barrier Pinnacle

1. Climb the crack on the left side of the block to a stance on top. hand traverse left for a few meters below a chimney/crack.

2. Climb the vertical chimney from the right-hand corner of the stance, traversing out left at the top. Scramble 30m in the direction of 11 o'clock to a pitch about 40m to the left of a prominent pinnacle.

3. From the level of the top of the pinnacle, traverse right for about 7m along a narrow ledge, then up 6m to a platform. move right into a crack which leads to a stance at the top of a prominent nose.

4. Climb the face behind the nose, moving diagonally right. turn a corner to gain a narrow ledge above

5. Traverse 7m along the ledge to a vertical fault in the final wall (facing Porcupine Buttress). Climb on the right side of the fault to the top.

Notes: there is a direct variation for the the first 3 pitches: pull up into a brown face and climb to a good hand-rail which enables you to do a strenuous and exposed hand swing (13) left to the base of a vertical, open chimney.

A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag.

Start: up the over hanging corner left of Barrier Pinnacle

1. Climb up the corner until it is possible to traverse left on slanting hand grips to a semi-detached block. Climb the Block, stepping off and traversing right to stance shared with Pinnacle.

2. Move around the bulging corner, using good grips in a recess to reach a hidden flake, and continue up to a good stance or continue up a brown recess, traversing left under a overhang to exit up a corner to a broad ledge.

3. Lay-back up the right-side of a ramp until forced to traverse left onto the ramp. Continue up to a small one-man stance below an overhang on the right. Continue using a series of pull-ups, move left and up through the overhang. climb the block to a good stance.

4. Step across onto the face, then traverse left round a corner and up to a good stance below a black crack. climb the crack to the top.

Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m from a large triangular boulder, and 6m left of Barrier Sandwich.

1. Climb the brown face 4m, then traverse 2m left and up to a roomy, cave-like stance, on poor rock. Traverse right 3m then climb the recess above, moving right to stance at the top.

2. Climb the bushy fault and step right to a bushed up ledge. Climb a series of large steps, which leads to and obvious traverse left for 5m, ending on a broad ledge.

3. A pinnacle - from which the route gets its name - may be seen in profile about 15m right. Climb up behind the pinnacle and emerge on its right, before continuing up a vertical fault above for 15m. Move out left to a good ledge some 7m above.

4. Climb diagonally up to the right to the foot of a vertical fault and lay-back to a stance. Continue up excellent holds to the top.

Do not underestimate the first pitch.

Start: about 12m left of Barrier Frontal, up a left facing corner capped by a roof.

1. Climb the recess for about 5m, then traverse across the vertical wall to the corner. Pull through an overlap, to beneath the next roof, and move left and up a recess on a higher ledge (awkward). Continue up the recess to the ceiling, then traverse right around the corner to a small ledge and move up to a bigger ledge. Climb the face above the left-hand edge of the ledge, then traverse 2m left into a shallow recess (with a bush) to another ledge.

2. Traverse to the right along a narrow, bushy ledge until you reach a stance at the top of the first pitch of Barrier Frontal.

3. From the blocks, climb on the good holds past some steep flake moves to reach a stance in a deep fissure. Climb the fissure for about 1m then traverse out right 3m to the obvious break. Using a yellow sandy-looking projection move up to the right for 2m, then swing up to the square stance to the right of the overhang.

4. Traverse right, along a reddish ledge for 5m until a flake lying flush with the face is reached. Use the flake to swing up and continue climbing to the stance, bypassing the small overhang on the right. Climb the obvious recess (shared with Barrier Frontal) and exit to the right to reach a ledge with two fixed pitons and horseshoe on Barrier Frontal.

5. Climb up for 3m, then move diagonally left to the hanging recess and up this to the top.

A Direct line up the clean top faces between Barrier and Walk Over.

Start: from the right hand side of the light grey face about 10m right of Sandwich, or just left of the scramble to the base of Frontal.

1. Reach the handrail and traverse left to a tiny ledge just before the corner that overlooks Sandwich. Climb the steep crack above.

2. Climb the crack about 3m to the right, through a bulge in the red rock. Continue via a series of tricky moves up the outside of the pinnacle, climbing the final block to the left.

3. From the top of the block lying on the left of the crack of Barrier Pinnacle, reach height for a jug and pull-up leftwards into a shallow recess. Continue to the roof, then move left until the roof ends. An awkward pull-up leads to a stance above the roof.

4. Climb straight up, then diagonally left to a narrow ledge at the left end of the face.

5. Traverse 8m right along a rail, then climb up in line with the stance above with 3, through steep rock on in-cut holds. Continue past a ledge up short rock bands to the top.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [16] 12m

   Climb the shaley crack directly above the stance. Climb the obvious lay-back to an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [11] 20m

   Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. Climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the 'shaley crack' on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the 'Soup Plate'.

Another moderate route well worth doing. For the most part the line takes the vague arete. The route was originally done in 7 pitches, and so the modern version is described below.

Start: the line basically starts on the right corner of the front face of the buttress, but to get there traverse right around the corner, scramble up a short corner to an earth platform with a large tree. this is Just right of the prominent red face where Enterprise starts.

1. Climb the recess to the overhang, then move left onto a sitting ledge, which narrows as it runs out onto a jutting nose. Move around the nose, then up to a good stance.

2. Move 3m left to a sharp-edged boulder. Move up a meter, then back right and up an obvious fault that runs left to a stance.

3. 18m (12) Move slightly right and up to skirt the overhang, then traverse 5m right and up a gap between two blocks. Traverse about 12m right along a wide ledge to a stance at the end.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.

A good route on the South Face with a fine handrail.

Start: about 8m right of the water drip. Pitch 1. 16m (10) Move diagonally left for 8m, then negotiate a dassie traverse for another 8m to the base of a shallow, Y Shaped crack on a brown face.

1. Climb the Y-Shaped crack for 4m, then traverse right towards and then onto a loose-looking block. Move diagonally right to the right hand corner of the face (above the water drip). Climb the easy recess to the broad ledge above. Walk right for 9m to the base of a recessed corner.

2. Climb the recess to a small overhang, move 1m left, then pull though the small roof to a rest. Climb the corner above on fingertip lay-backs to the overhang above. Rail 7m left & up to a comfortable stance.

3. Climb up and right onto the obvious protruding flake beneath the roof. "Turn the overhang" and up 3m before traversing left to a 7m face to a stance.

4. After an awkward start, climb the face diagonally left for 10m to a small ledge. Continue up, trending left to reach the ledge beneath the final pitch or Edge. Take Edge to the top:

5. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.

Notes: it is recommended to traverse diagonally left to join BE at the end of pitch 4.

A Good clean steep route, which latches onto the top sections of FF and BE.

Start: about 5m right of Fingertip or 4m right of Hang Ten, beneath a steep recess with a small roof halfway up.

1. Climb the recess with a few awkward and strenuous moves to turn the little overhangs. Stance on a good ledge.

2. Start round to the left, up a flaky face right of Fingertip to a ledge. Move around to the left into a recess. Climb this, breaking out left at the top to a stance above an overhang which overlooks FF's crux.

3. Move left through a corner onto a face with a detached block. climb to the roof, an traverse left to a stance beneath a corner (this pitch is shared with Hang ten.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right. This is the last pitch of BE.

Varied line to the top of the crag.

Head straight up and left into a small recess. Pull around this and up and left to the big ledge. Pull onto the upper tier and follow the line of least resistance up and left to the top.

Pitch 2 is improbable and exposed.

1. Head up and right under the first small overlap, then straight up to a wide corner below the roof. Rail right and up to the ledge via a tricky move (right of the wedged block in the ceiling).

2. Pull onto the upper tier on the left side of a low overhang. Head up and right to the main roof. Pull through to a good hand rail, move left and pull up to the wall above, then easily up and right to the top.

A great line, probably the best at the crag.

Head up and right under the first small overlap. Continue diagonally right to a jam crack through a small roof. Pull past two more rails and then right to exit onto the ledge.

Big brother to Café Caprice, wingspan will help for the final wild moves.

Head up and right under the first small overlap. Pull up and hand traverse right, then up and further right to a wide, bottomless corner. Pull up into this and hand rail right to a final long pull through the roof and up to the ledge.

A steep route out of the centre of the cave.

Starts on a boulder in the middle of the cave.

Pull up and move left until able to head straight up to the roof. Traverse left and finish up Café Caprice.

The second pitch is excellent!

1. From a block, head up and left across the slab to a mantle onto the ledge.

2. Pull up and left to good holds through the roof (will feel much harder than 22 if you don’t find the sneaky beta). Head diagonally left across the expose face to the top.

The best of the easier routes, good position.

From the block, head straight up the slab to the ledge (sandy in places, but avoidable). Pull up to a high, wide rail and traverse right until able to gain the orange face. Continue up and left to the top (in situ rap point).

Nice climbing but wanders a bit.

To the right of the slab is some scrappy rock. Start right of this and up to narrow overlap. Pull through on the right then move back left and up to easier terrain. Continue heading left, following a vague, steep recess until able to exit right at the top.

Good climbing, pity about the loose block and bushy mantle at the end...

Start: up the wall at a point where a faint path leads through the bushes and out to the right side of the crag.

Head up and tend left under the broken rock and up to the midway ledge. Climb up below the black water-streak corner for 2m and then rail left 2m and up to the exit face will a series of horizontal rails. Beware a big loose block just right of the final face. The top out involves negotiating none non friendly climber's friend.

Nice climbing up to midway, then a walk and tricky finish.

Start: on the far right of the wall.

Climb up to where a short traverse right leads up to the ledge. Walk right a few meters and then climb diagonally back up and left to a tricky exit at the top.