Routes in Wales for selected grade

Start 8m left of the prominent groove line, below an undercut at 2m. Pull up and move steeply rightward to reach a small spike above the bulge. Reach up to the left-rising break and finish up the easier upper groove.

Start 4m left of the crack and groove. Work through a bulge on undercuts to gain the left-sloping break. Move up into a grey groove with a pink patch overhead. Follow this to gain the top via a jug.

Traversing the left rising break from 2m left of the crack and groove, TRs. Finish direct after 6m. A bag.

Start below a black bulge 10m left of Smuts. Go up to the bulge and make hard moves left to pass the bulge. Continue slightly rightwards to a very slim groove that leads to the top.

A short but compelling line up the pocketed wall left of East Gully Groove. Well protected if you trust the old threads, but at the living end of E2.

To the right is a prominent flake crack, which looks from below like it tops out onto hideously loose blocks. Fortunately the blocks seem to be sound. Gain the flake crack from the left using pockets (good wires) and blast quickly up the crack to a bold, but easier finish.

A strenuous number. Start 6m right of Ice Age and climb an obvious line of leftward-trending flakes over a roof to the top.

From 3m up Liberty, place the good wires and make a tricky 'fall' leftwards onto a vague ramp and pocket, to gain a small hole. Pull round the overlap above the hole and finish up the easier wall above.

1. 20m, 4b. As for Killer's Route to the Junction Stance.

2. 15m, 6a. Clip the PR high up above the belay from the corner (The Jackal Finish) and step back down. Climb the headwall directly above the belay (crux) to gain an obvious scoop, 2PRs. Follow easy ground to finish up the corner above the Zygon nest.

A daring route following the obvious crozzly line left of Assassin.

1. 18m, 6a. Climb directly up to a v formed by Assassin crossing Hair Raiser low down. The initial hard moves up to the start of the crozzly flakes are well protected by a good wire, but there then follows a 12m run out on tricky 5c moves to a jam crack. Place gear, breathe a sight of relief and amble easily up to an obvious leftward traverse leading to The Junction Stance.

2. 20m, 5c. Gain P2 of Killer's Route, by pulling up right round the arête above the stance.

Face Only