Showing all 28 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.2 | ★★★ Patina Face
The beautiful featured patina slab facing the parking spot. A lovely top rope, perfect for kids or beginners. Top-ropeable off two new bolts (installed sometime between 2016 and 2020), or (better located) large gear (#4, #5 camalots). Either way, bring lots of slings to extend the TR point well over the edge - there's already lots of unavoidable drag from the chicken heads on the face. | 17m | |||
5.10a | ★ Left
Up the left leaning slab / corner and vague scoop left of 'Patina Face'. Great climbing on unusual (for granite) incut face holds. | 17m | |||
5.10c | ★ Left Again
Left again at some obvious starting holds at head height. Move left under the corner / scoop, then up the sustained thin black panel at half height (avoiding the temptation to move left or right to jugs), and then a variety of easier finishes. | 17m | |||
5.10d | ★ Left Again Direct Start
One move wonder direct start, at incut hold above head height. | 17m | |||
Prow Direct
There are a couple of manky old rivets and rivet-holes visible on this face, and a line to the right of them looks like it might be climbable (though the second bulge 15' up looks pretty blank...). People boulder in this section. | 20m | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Corner / Prow
Up the featured arete, moving left into the grey corner. Up this to a prominent cracked undercling / sidepull block, and either traverse hard right here, or continue up the corner for a few more feet, then traverse hard right on sharp crimps (both ways are about the same difficulty, and are the crux of the route). Easily up to ledge and final short steep crack. This route is directly below the new double bolt anchor, but bring lots of slings (or better yet 30' of static rope) to get the TR point over the (sharp) top edge of the face. | 20m | |||
White Corners
Up the cracks/flakes above the good looking white/orange rock. People boulder in this section too. | 20m | ||||
Class 4 | Top Access
Easiest access to the top, but has some exposed moves and tends to be dirty. Recommended that you wear climbing shoes for this. At times there has been a hand-rope dropped down this, attached to the bolts on top. As with all fixed gear, treat it with suspicion. | 8m | |||
★ Left Shield
Layback left arete. | 8m | ||||
★★★ The Shield
Line of crimps up centre of face. Highball. | 8m | ||||
Right Shield
Right arete and spider-webby flake. Bad Landing | 6m | ||||
Shield Traverse
Traverse from 'Left Shield' to 'Right Shield'. | 9m | ||||
V0 | ★ Slabby Nonsense
Fun slabbing up the middle of the face. | 4m | |||
Left Dolmen
Left side of 'The Dolmen'. Very loose rock! | 9m | ||||
Centre Dolmen
Up the vague right-leaning dihedral in the centre of the face. | 9m | ||||
V0 R | Right Dolmen
Nice rounded slab to more featured, albeit chossy, steeper section up high. | 8m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ Right Toadstool
Huge reach (or poor intermediates) up and right from obvious cracked undercling. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★★ Centre Toadstool
Awesome steep jugging. | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Left Toadstool
Fun jugging, left of the small cedar. | 4m | |||
V0 | Right of Crack
Start on opposing crimp sidepulls then easily up to crux topout. | 3m | |||
VB- | Crack
One move wonder - shame it isn't twice as high. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Orange Arete
Elegant side pulling on jugs. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Layback
Right arete is off. Harder than it looks. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Right Flame
Sustained thin climbing on the right of the lovely patina face. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Left Flame
Left side of the lovely patina face. Crux is leaving the ground. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Flames Arete
Classy start then easier to finish. 'Flaming Flake' is off. | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Flaming Flake
The grey flake just left of 'Flames Arete'. The tree is on at the start for your left foot. | 5m | |||
V0- | Flaming Crack
Did someone eat too many chilis? The groove and jugs just left of the tree. | 5m |
Showing all 28 routes.