A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Crowder's Mountain State Park
140 in Crag
- 1.1. Practice Wall 12 in Area
- 1.2. Unemployment Wall 8 in Area
- 1.3. David's Castle 22 in Area
- 1.4. Nuke the Whales Wall 2 in Area
- 1.5. Red Wall 20 in Area
- 1.6. Fortress Wall 7 in Area
- 1.7. Middle Finger Backside 4 in Area
- 1.8. Middle Finger Wall 5 in Area
- 1.9. Two Pitch Wall 5 in Area
- 1.10. Car Wall 5 in Area
- 1.11. Gumbies Roof 3 in Area
- 1.12. First Wall 2 in Area
- 1.13. Hidden Wall 28 in Area
- 1.14. Rawlhide Wall 3 in Area
- 1.15. New Policy Wall 1 in Unknown
- 1.16. trundalasaurus 13 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Crowder's Mountain State Park 140 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 35.234987, -81.273294
description
Crowders Mountain is a state park located in western North Carolina. In fact, it's not too far from South Carolina. The rock is of a quartzite that is similar to the rock found around the state. Its easy approach and proximity to Charlotte make Crowders a popular place on the weekends, and not just for climbers (which leads some locals to call the place "Crowded" Mountain).
The rock quality is pretty good and offers something for everyone. There are numerous top-roping opportunities as well as sport and trad with ratings ranging from 5.5 to 5.13. Cliffs generally face east or west, so finding sun or shade is pretty easy (depending on the time of day), though the thick foliage can make finding sun more difficult.
Lambert and Shull's Selected Climbs in North Carolina is a great book for the area; however, it is not comprehensive. There is plenty to do here, however, since it's easy to top-rope quite a bit.
access issues
Keep in mind, this is a state park. Permits are required for climbing and rangers regularly visit the crags and check up on climbers. Permits are free and easy to fill out, so please do this to avoid hassles. Also, there is a gate that opens and closes daily. Please be aware of the time and make sure you leave before closing time.
approach
Crowders Mountain is about 30 miles west of Charlotte.
Take I-85 to Exit 13 and make a left off the exit. After this, it depends on where you want to climb. Directions are different for the Hidden Wall and the rest of the areas. Please go to the respective areas to find directions to them.
ethic
Top rope, trad, some sport.
1.1. Practice Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 35.232403, -81.275166
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ burn crack | 5.10c | ||||
| 2 | ★★ skunkpie | 5.12a | ||||
| 3 | Klingon Traverse | 5.12 | ||||
| 4 | black flag direct | 5.13b | ||||
| 5 | Black Flag | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 | Gastonia Crack | 5.4 | ||||
| 7 | ★ Playground | 5.9 | ||||
| 8 | The Wall | 5.10a | ||||
| 9 | ★ Brick in the Wall | 5.10d | 79ft | |||
| 10 | Another Brick in the Wall | 5.10d | ||||
| 11 | Mike's Crack | 5.5 | ||||
| 12 | ★ So It Goes | 5.8 | ||||
1.2. Unemployment Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Callin in Sick | 5.11 | ||||
| 2 | Shaved Dog | 5.8 | ||||
| 3 | Brown Nosin' | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 | Street People | 5.10 | ||||
| 5 | Soup Line | 5.8 | ||||
| 6 | Interview | 5.10 | ||||
| 7 | Get a Real Job | 5.10 | ||||
| 8 | Zuma Groove | 5.8 | ||||
1.3. David's Castle 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 35.233318, -81.274499
1.3.1. Main Wall 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rocky's Roof | 5.10 | ||||
| 2 | Psychotic Reaction | 5.10c | ||||
| 3 | ★ Two Steps | 5.10 | ||||
| 4 | Between the Betwix | 5.10 | ||||
| 5 | Golden Shower | 5.9 | ||||
| 6 |
★ Electra
Starts just left of an obvious chimney, aka Caterpillar 5.7, and is filled with great face climbing. Tricky mantle move off the start spices things up before the first clip. Nice powerful moves to solid holds and good foot work characterize this route well. | 5.10d | 50ft, 5 | |||
| 7 | ★★★ Caterpillar | 5.7 | 80ft | |||
| 8 | ★★ energy czar | 5.10d | 59ft, 5 | |||
| 9 | ★★ Butcher of Baghdad / Energy Czar Variation | 5.11d/12a | 59ft, 6 | |||
| 10 | Instant Karma Direct | 5.10d | ||||
| 11 | Karma | 5.10b | ||||
| 12 | Temporary Tradition | 5.11a | ||||
| 13 | ★ Pink Flamingo | 5.11a | ||||
| 14 |
What Else is There to Do?
Natural anchors. | 5.7 | 69ft | |||
| 15 | Sadistic Rhythm | 5.9 | ||||
| 16 | Four Play | 5.4 | ||||
1.3.2. Backside 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nuclear Cottage Cheese | 5.9 | ||||
| 2 | ★ Overhang Direct | 5.8 | ||||
| 3 | ★ The Dish | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 |
★ Ooga Chocka
go right of main crack and lead to second set of ancors and clean down FA: 2007 | 5.8 | 490ft | |||
| 5 |
★ The Nose
use less make it hard its a fun climb on a expoesed face | 5.5 | ||||
| 6 | Stupid Roof | 5.10b | ||||
1.4. Nuke the Whales Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Nuke the Whales | 5.6 | ||||
| 2 | Orange Corner | 5.5 | ||||
1.5. Red Wall 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | silence the critics | 5.12b | ||||
| 2 | ★★ desperately seeking juggage | 5.11c | 43ft, 3 | |||
| 3 | Target Practice | 5.8 | ||||
| 4 | Opinionated | 5.9 | ||||
| 5 | Spring Fling | 5.8 | ||||
| 6 | Spring Swing | 5.8 | ||||
| 7 | ★★ Beer Wolf | 5.9 | ||||
| 8 | Spring Fever | 5.7 | ||||
| 9 | Spring Break | 5.8 | ||||
| 10 | Red Wall Chimney | 5.3 | ||||
| 11 | Welcome to Crowders | 5.12a | 39ft, 3 | |||
| 12 | T.K.O. | 5.12a | 39ft, 3 | |||
| 13 | Red Red Wine | 5.11b | ||||
| 14 | ★ Scramble My Feedback | 5.10a | ||||
| 15 | 911 | 5.8 | ||||
| 16 | Master Beta | 5.10c | ||||
| 17 | Axis (Bold as Love) | 5.11c | ||||
| 18 | Fashion | 5.12b | ||||
| 19 | ★★★ The Gimp | 5.10d | ||||
| 20 | Tom Tom Club | 5.9 | ||||
1.6. Fortress Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Big Crack | 5.5 | 45ft | |||||
| 2 | ★ Direct | 5.9 | 45ft | |||||
| 3 | ★ Fortress fingers | 5.10b | ||||||
| 4 | ★ Finger Crack | 5.7 | ||||||
| 5 | Aerial Act | 5.10d | ||||||
| 6 | ★★ Eye Sockets | 5.10 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 | Gumbies Go Home | 5.10d | ||||||
1.7. Middle Finger Backside 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Pick-a-dilly Prow | 5.11b | ||||
| 2 | ★ Pleasent Dreams | 5.8 | ||||
| 3 | ★ The Bear | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 | The Bear Variation | 5.9 | ||||
1.8. Middle Finger Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Middle Finger | 5.7 | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Pocket of Like'n | 5.7 | 110ft | |||
| 3 | Flexible Flyer | 5.9 | ||||
| 4 | The Balcony | 5.5 | ||||
| 5 | The Iron Curtain | 5.7 | ||||
1.9. Two Pitch Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cambodian Holiday | 5.9 | ||||
| 2 | ★ Two Pitch | 5.4 | ||||
| 3 | ★★★ Eat A Peach | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 | ★ PreDestination | 5.8 | ||||
| 5 | Trash Compactor | 5.5 | ||||
1.10. Car Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Entertainment For Men | 5.9 | ||||
| 2 | Flat Tire | 5.10 | ||||
| 3 | Beer Can Alley | 5.8 | 2 | |||
| 4 | firestone | 5.10 | ||||
| 5 | Scorched Earth Defenses | 5.10+ | ||||
1.11. Gumbies Roof 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Aerial Act | 5.10d | ||||
| 2 | Eye Sockets | 5.10+ | ||||
| 3 | ★★★ Gumbies Go Home | 5.10d | ||||
1.12. First Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | safety Dance | 5.5 | ||||
| 2 | Beer Can Alley | 5.6 | ||||
1.13. Hidden Wall 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rockafari | 5.10 | ||||
| 2 | Belly Crawl | 5.9 | ||||
| 3 | Genesis | 5.8 | ||||
| 4 | The Bolter Problem | 5.10c | ||||
| 5 | Perplexus | 5.11c | ||||
| 6 | Waspafarian | 5.10b | ||||
| 7 | Top That | 5.8 | ||||
| 8 | Top That Direct | 5.10b | ||||
| 9 | Anthrax | 5.11d | ||||
| 10 | Elastic Rebound Theory | 5.11c | ||||
| 11 | the whining | 5.11d | ||||
| 12 | Dixie Fury | 5.12a | ||||
| 13 | Mudbone | 5.12b | ||||
| 14 | slabsters lament | 5.12b | ||||
| 15 | slabsters lament direct | 5.12c | ||||
| 16 | the terrorist | 5.13a | ||||
| 17 | the snag | 5.12b | ||||
| 18 | Black Sand Beaches | 5.11d | ||||
| 19 | ★ toxic shock | 5.11d | ||||
| 20 | ★ Toxic Shock Direct Finish | 5.9 | ||||
| 21 | ★★★ Pteranodon | 5.11a | ||||
| 22 | Freuhlein | 5.11a | ||||
| 23 | Not See | 5.11b | ||||
| 24 | Spitter | 5.12b | ||||
| 25 | Doug's Dihedral | 5.11c | ||||
| 26 | the carnivore | 5.12c | ||||
| 27 | thratcher | 5.13a | ||||
| 28 | Path to Extinction | 5.10 | ||||
1.14. Rawlhide Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Cromagnon Crack | 5.5 | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Rawlhide | 5.10 | ||||
| 3 | Arboricide Var. | 5.11 | ||||
1.15. New Policy Wall 1 route in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
There is a trail branching off directly behind FASHION that angles down and right from Red Wall. Follow this for about a 100 ft. until you reach a small buttress. The first three anchors all share the set of bolted anchors above New Policy.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ One To The First Power
Start a few feet right of This Ain't No Place For You Algebra and climb up the easiest path veering right. This route offers fun face climbing and a few dihedral moves. Though the climbing is easy, small gear from .1-.4 greatly tames potential runouts. Clip the anchors of New Policy and rapp. | 5.8 | 50ft | |||
1.16. trundalasaurus 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ plane above your head | 5.10a | 30ft | |||
| 2 | ★★ dewey used to love it | 5.10c | 40ft | |||
| 3 | Meaty Okra | 5.9 | 100ft | |||
| 4 | Interview | 5.10 | 120ft | |||
| 5 | Callin' in Sick | 5.11 | ||||
| 6 | Christmas Present | 5.8 | ||||
| 7 | ★★ Trundalsaurus | 5.10+ | ||||
| 8 | Tyrannosaurus Rox | 5.10 | ||||
| 9 | ★★ Passing Out Wolf Tickets | 5.10 | ||||
| 10 |
★★ Overlooked and Underrated
Climb up the boulder and onto the wall. Veer up and left following the line of bolts. There's a bit of a runout between the last bolt and anchors but it is quickly tamed with a small cam. | 5.9 | 50ft, 5 | |||
| 11 | ★★ No Experience Necessary | 5.6 | ||||
| 12 | ★ Just Like Old Time | 5.8 | ||||
| 13 | Dewey Used to Love It | 5.10 | ||||
