Discussion: Risk of rope cutting fall for the second on the 2nd pitch!

Fixed Gear Risk of rope cutting fall for the second on the 2nd pitch!

There's a real risk of a rope-cutting fall on the 2nd pitch, if the second falls off right after unclipping the ring bolt (which also happens to be the crux of this pitch). If this happens, they will pendulum right (facing the cliff), into space under the belay ledge, and there's a sharp edge on that side of the ledge that the rope will run along. Peter Flegg and I discovered this situation (and shat our pants) when we did the route in 2003.

I think the best solution will be to add another high belay bolt to the 2nd belay, just above the lip of the higher roof and a full reach out to the left (facing the cliff). That way the leader, after gaining the belay, can clip that (new) bolt with a directional for the second, which will redirect the rope from running along the sharp edge under load, should they fall off after unclipping the RB. The exciting lead experience will be preserved (the new bolt would not be clippable until after the leader is already on the belay ledge), and the second will still take a pants-filling swing if they fall off the crux, but at least that swing won't involve a potentially cut rope.

Sadly I'm a long way from the Blue Mountains these days so can't do this work myself, but if there are any experienced locals who are up for some community service, hit me up - I'd be happy to pay for the hardware.

Good idea, but most people won't work out what the bolt is for unless an instruction manual is attached to the belay. Maybe the edge could be buffed back a little?

From 16yo memory that seems implausible, but I'd encourage locals to go and check it out themselves and determine the best course of action. Wish I'd had my 2003 experience before 2001, when I rebolted the route... #hindsight2020

And agreed that it wouldn't be at all obvious what the bolt is for, though at least thecrag (and other guidebooks) could describe why it's there. If climbers don't RTFM that's on them.

Is this something the belayer could protect by rigging a tarp over the sharp edge in question?

Keeping in mind it’s been almost 20 years since I last did the route, my recollection is that the edge is too sharp and undercut for a tarp to be much good. Like I say, the best bet will be for someone to go check it out and report back here with a more up-to-date assessment.

Doing the direct route avoids this ledge

Correct, but it also avoids some of the best (and certainly the hardest) climbing on the entire route.