Discussion: Development of Crag

Development of Crag

is anyone still doing development here?

Are the projects open or still closed?

Cheers Damo, was just about to post the same thing. I stumbled upon this place today when i was out looking for cliffs, some fantastic lines ... so many cool corners. The 3 star corner seam project looks fantastic. There's a bunch of good lines about 500m further south that we're looking to develop. Could be a great little area with some distinctive lines

The guy who knows most about this place is John lattanzio "wogdog" unfortunately he is overseas for about 3 more weeks

Projects are still closed - cuz no one will belay WogDog down there Chris, John would love you guys to bolt some more climbs. Go for it !!

Great question. Also, what's the deal with grading routes? I have found a little gem in my area that i have uploaded to the Crag but there are a few routes that I cannot nail the crux and probably never will (I'm guessing around grades 26-27). Should I hazard a guess at the grades or leave it to someone else? And in relation to dogging/topping with rest; does this give me the right to grade the climb or do I need to wait until I do the route clean (which should be this weekend by my calculation!!)?? Cheers guys.

Basic convention is...You cant name it unless you get it clean on lead, top roping, dogging don't count, also if you can't climb it, how can you grade it as you haven't done the moves..just leave it to the eventual FFA...if you reckon you will never do it, just mark as open project..someone wil jump on it and do it clean.

Thanks Rod.

Re grading, thecrag can accept a grade range, so regardless of whether something is a project or whether you've just done the FA but aren't sure of the grade, then you can enter something like "26-28". After it's had a few more ticks / feedback then you can re-edit and make it more exact. Our philosophy is partial info is better than none.

Over-grade if unsure James. Sandbagging is not fashionable any more If the routes you found are bolted already, then you'd better try to find the FFAs and ask for names and grades, right? If is trad go for it: climb, name, grade.

Over-grading seems so unlikely at Nowra. At least keep the sandbagging consistent, or there will be mass panic when the +2 grading formula only becomes partly applicable.

Yes and probably my post is in the wrong place too. I was referring to a question James asked related to a crag he discovered near Mckay. Not applicable to Nowra. We are just mixing things up :-{

I have tried to find the FFAs over the past 6 months but have had no luck. I guess if they turn up somewhere they can always re-name and grade the routes if they wish.

This is a little cynical, but in my experience writing retro guides for old areas (mostly trad) if you ask around for info often not many people respond. But if you go a head and take some pics and make up some names and grades, suddenly everyone is up in arms and complaining that route X is really called route Y - and voila! you've got the info you wanted

A bit of cautious controversy can be a good thing, and get the original FA's motivated to join up and start doing there own editing

James you should probably open a new thread in regards of your little crag and invite route setters to come forward with infos. Would be great if you take photos, make topos and add accurate route descriptions to attract interest. It also would be a good idea to post pictures of hardware, this could give some idea of when bolts and anchors were installed and also about safety, since the crag is a sea cliff. IMO

Will do, thanks.

Ask yourself a few questions: Is the route mostly vegetation? Is the route often underwater? Would the route make the average person run a mile before bolting it? If the answer to all three questions is yes - then it is probably a John Lattanzio route.

Re Caprocornia, All the projects there are closed projects bar one, the extension to Face the Music. Haven't had an opportunity to get back to them.

James, with regards to grading it's my understanding that the convention (certainly in trad circles) and this is how I do it,is to give the route an aid grade. If you do the first ascent with a rest then the grade has an MO attached eg; 20MO, if you use the gear to get past a hard move then it has an M1 attached, eg: a 20 with this kind of move may be graded 18M1.

Thanks for the info John. Have you looked at doing any lines in the Northern Section?

Hi Damian, Have looked at some lines there but have really only concentrated on the Southern Sector. Feel free to develop that sector, should be a great range of routes there. Cheers John

Howzit John, Perfect conditions at the moment - hopefully you haven't got too much work to distract you.

Hi Matt, yeah keen to get back onto Nowra sandstone after 8 weeks on European limestone.

Hi John one last question about Capricornia.

Do you want the area still not shown up on the crag or it doesn't matter?

If it is ok i will put the location up on the crag.

Thanks Damian