Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Toxo Tiana Toxo tiana | ||||||
6a | Unknown | 30m | Average | |||
6a+ | ★ Rosalinda | 30m | ★ Good | |||
If only the rock wasn't as sharp in this area
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Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Festival Across the road | ||||||
6b+ | Sachsen-yousseff | 99m | Don't Bother | |||
First pitch only, then we bailed. Rock dangerous, many loose blocks- and I can tolerate choss!
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Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Left | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Undercut start to slab | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Very Nowra start, and a bad warm up
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Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Right | ||||||
5c | ★ La taranga | ★ Good | ||||
My poor fingers
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5c | ★ La gartuela | ★ Good | ||||
A bit sharp on the warm down
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Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Left | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Donne moi | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rather pumpy while trying to find the huge hidden pockets
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6c+ | ★★ Jalufa | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the crux and succumbed to a reach issue that essentially had a dyno for me on the second attempt. Marvellous climbing, very varied.
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5c+ | ★ Unknown 12 | 31m | ★ Good | |||
Ok, with nice but runout moves up a massive hollow flake to anchors
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6b+ 6c | ★★ Gualajob | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stupid foot slip on some slimy limestone
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6a+ 6b | ★★ Corpino | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not too sharp, and nice pockets
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6c | ★ Tjazmatalas | 30m | ★ Good | |||
One hard move with out good reach, had to use some rather sloppy intermediates.
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7a+ | ★★ Santé suriana (Sant Sarrana) | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had a top rope from where dave came down, but on sighted through the crux correcting several mistakes with a great deal of pump.
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6c 6b | ★★ Corpino | 30m | ★ Good | |||
A bit escapable I think
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Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Upper Tier Ansamer | ||||||
6a | ★ Enfants gates | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tough start
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5c | Balafon | 25m | Average | |||
Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Right | ||||||
6b 6a | ★★ Amour | 33m | ★ Good | |||
Hard start up r facing corner
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Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Left | ||||||
6b+ | Tamazirt | 55m | Average | |||
First pitch only as warm up
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6b | ★ Unknown 13 | 31m | ★ Good | |||
Rather run out in places
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7a | ★★★ Ensalada Metalica | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing series of pockets up blunt overhanging arete
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Fri 28th Feb 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Upper Tier Winter Gardens | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Afrique Physique | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not sure if this was the route, but in the middle oft he 7a+section. Interesting slab then rising traverse right on overhung wall. Starts just left of boulder pile at highest part of wall
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6b 6c+ | Plaisir | 90m | Average | |||
Sharp at end of day
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6b | ★★ Mets la jambe (Jardin D'Hiver) | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep little wall and a good kneebar
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6c+ | ★ Unknown 11 | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting up seam and pumpy overt he bulge
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6b+ | ★ C'est plus dur qu'a doite (Unknown 12) | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Cruised the underling start and almost came unstuck through juggy overhang
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Fri 28th Feb 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Main Gorge Pilier Du Couchant | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ La Classique | 290m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alt leads with dave, did in 6 long pitches. Some really interesting sections. Glad we took a rack! The guide says only quick draws but it's old school with bolts pitons and long run outs and difficult route finding.
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Fri 28th Feb 2014 - Haut Atlas | ||||||
Gorges du Todgha Main Gorge Plage Mansour Plage Mansour Left | ||||||
5b 5c | ★ Interrogation (Unknown 6) | 30m, 8 | Average | |||
5b | Trop | Average | ||||
Just another line of bolts
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6a+ | ★★ Amigo Mia (Unknown 9) | 10 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting start and end
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6a+ | ★ Incha Allah | ★ Good | ||||
Rock a bit sharp
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Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
North side Jbel el-Kest Idaouganif Adrar umlil Tower 3 | ||||||
E2 5c | ★★ Leaving las vegas | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Last quick route. Nice but not E2. Lots of rests.
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Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
North side Jbel el-Kest Idaouganif Adrar umlil Tower2 | ||||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★★★ The Lion King (The Lon king) | 200m | ★★★ Classic | |||
We found nice white rock again!
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Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
North side Jbel el-Kest Afantinzar Eagle crags Lower eagle | ||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★ Pink Lady | 230m | ★ Good | |||
Not that classic climbing, though pleasant view. Was rather chilly when we did it
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Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
North side Jbel el-Kest Sidi M'Zal Tizi gzaouline crag | ||||||
HVS 5b | ★ Flashpump | 20m | Average | |||
Quite pumpy, average rock.
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VS 4c | ★★ Chasing rainbows | 34m | ★ Good | |||
A bit ledgy
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HS 4b HS 4b | ★ The lion tamer | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Nice middle section
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★ Cirque de soleil | 30m | Average | |||
Rock a bit flaky and start disconcerting
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Fri 21st Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Anirgui Lower crag | ||||||
S | ★ Southwest ridge | 300m | ★ Good | |||
2pitches, soloed rest. Nice and airy ascent and start of a 1000m ascent enchainment
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Fri 21st Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Anirgui Upper crag | ||||||
VD | ★ The angels crest | 160m | ||||
Did 1 60m pitch in steepest part, soloed rest.
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Fri 21st Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Anirgui Jebel el kest | ||||||
3 | ★★ South ridge | 500m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Along with se ridge lower anergui and angel crest traverse to summit jebel el kest, and long descent, a great day out
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Thu 20th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge East bank | ||||||
E5 6b | FA ★★ Sentry Duty | 30m | ★ Good | |||
FFA.
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E5 6b E5 6b | ★★ Sentry Duty | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Marred by some blocky rock low. Some preplaced gear on top rope practice went into this. Nice upper 2/3
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S | FA ★ Ca Va | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Much nicer than expected, getting to anchors for cleaning other routes.
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Tue 18th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Goat | ||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Goat evaporator | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Quite a nice corner
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E3 5b | ★★★ Cristal | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
If only there was more rock this quality.
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Tue 18th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Outlaw | ||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Will Scarlet | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice little route. But back to friable rock
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VS 4c | ★ Outlaw | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Efficiency mode
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Mon 17th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Entrance wall | ||||||
HS 4b | Tumbleweed | 25m | Average | |||
Mon 17th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Touareg tower | ||||||
VS 4c | Original route | 30m | Average | |||
Can't remember much due to concentrating on a no climbing muscle......
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E4 6b | FA ★ Too Close to Zero | 30m | ★ Good | |||
It was freezing and spitting rain and my gear consisted of rps and microcams
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Sat 15th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
North side Jbel el-Kest Afantinzar Ksar Rock Cannon Tower | ||||||
HVS 5a | ★★ Kingpin | 30m | ★ Good | |||
End of day lap to retrieve ropes
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S | ★ Desert man | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Ledgy
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VS 4c | ★★ Morocco coco | 65m | ★ Good | |||
Quick run up the rap rope
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HVS 5b | ★ Iron maiden | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves
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MVS 4b MVS 4b | ★★ Sahara | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Amazing jugs, I just don't trust them. It's not arapiles
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★ Pelez | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves. Average rock
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Fri 14th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Tafraoute Granite Painted Rocks The Blue Rocks | ||||||
5b+ 5+ | ★★ Azules de Vergara | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A novelty, le fissure bleu with tourist audience
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Thu 13th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Tagditch/ Tamaloucht Thyme buttress | ||||||
E4 6a | ★★ Sultans of swing | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Tried to lead it and wimped out. It actually wasn't that bad. There are harder 20s at araps.
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VS 5a VS 5a | ★ Banshee | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Choss start then ok laybacking
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S | FA Banshee 3 | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
Not my best fa. But while we were in the area......
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VS 4b | FA Banshee arete | 15m | Average | |||
FFA. Second dave. Ok rock until the top
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★★ Thyme crack | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A pleasant crack and a fresh sling and Biner to lower off as a bonus
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Wed 12th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Iguerdane Blue spring Main wall | ||||||
VS 4a VS 4a | Call to pimms | 10m | Average | |||
Crux is quite height dependent. Hardest move on this wall for me.
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VS 4c VS 4c | Thetwits | 10m | Average | |||
HVS 4c HVS 4c | Wo is chris Waddle and what is the fast show? | 10m | Average | |||
E1 5a E1 5a | Fear of shakespear | 10m | Average | |||
Not sure how it scores E1, perhaps if leading rather than solo
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HS | Meterologicos Mit Paula (Meteorological smith Paula) | 10m | Average | |||
VD | Securitat | 10m | Average | |||
VS 4c VS 4c | Aloe aloe | 10m | Average | |||
Wed 12th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Iguerdane Blue spring Blue spring crack pinnacle | ||||||
MVS 4a | ★ Blue spring crack | 9m | Average | |||
About 5 m of climbing
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VS 5a VS 5a | ★ Edison's revenge | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Tricky move to get established without landing in cactus
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HVS 4c | Hop | 8m | Average | |||
Essentially a solo
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S | Jump | 8m | Average | |||
S | ★ Bee sahara | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Exposed for such a short route
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E1 5c | FA ★★ Travel bug | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Great moves, rock and protection
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Tue 11th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Entrance wall | ||||||
S | Trader Vic's | 25m | Average | |||
Solo up
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VS 4b | Rockin zebra | 25m | Average | |||
Solo down, perhaps I should have done the other way around
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Tue 11th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge East bank | ||||||
E4 5c | Casino royale | 30m | Average | |||
The rock was a bit scary. Tr it after we did tresonga as same abseil point. Pumpy.
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E2 5c | ★ Tresonga | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad for a wide crack, though a bit grimy.
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Tue 11th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Touareg tower | ||||||
MVS 4b MVS 4b | ★ Jarrad | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Quite a nice route, about Grade 14
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Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Lion's Head Crag G | ||||||
VS 4b | FA Unchained melody | 51m | Average | |||
FFA. Under a chain anchor which may get repeats
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HVS 5a | FA ★ Secateurs | 80m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. 2 good pitches up amazing juggy quartzite
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HVS 5b | FA ★ Bimocco direct finish | 20m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Seconded dave up the steepish layback corner
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Sat 8th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Touareg tower | ||||||
E2 5b | Salif keita | 30m | Average | |||
Slightly suspect rock and some cacti
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E3 6a | ★★ Scimitar | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting moves and spaced but solid gear. Maybe should have led....
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★ Baba maal | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves but some suspect rock
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VS 4b | ★ Farouks fundamentals | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad for the grade
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VS 4c VS 4c | Crocodile dundee | 35m | Average | |||
Definitely not worth 2 stars.
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E2 5b | FA ★ Thierry le frond | 30m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Our first morocco fa.and a nice obvious line to boot
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Fri 7th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Tizgut Tizgut gorge East wall | ||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ Tagine | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked p1 and most of 2. Fell of fat overhanging hand jam and lowered to no hands rest. No way I was going to do the first 15 m again. Scary. The rest of route was excellent
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E2 5b E2 5b | ★★★ Tizgut crack | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led p2. Pretty nice but easier than a pipes 18. It is a joe brown route however.
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VS 4c VS 4c | Salus | 70m | Don't Bother | |||
Not sure how this gets 2stars.
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Thu 6th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Tafraoute Granite Aguerd oudad Black wall | ||||||
6a | ★★★ The black wall | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
30m with every move at the grade, and spicy bolting
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★ Unnamed offwidth start | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Our rest day sports climbing- and I end up on an offwidth!
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Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Bishops | ||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a | There goes everything | 15m | Average | |||
Some dodgy rock and a bit run out
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Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest Tifghalt White tower | ||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ The white tower original route | 170m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Led p 2,4 lovely white quartzite reminiscent of Electra but much better gear!
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Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Roadside | ||||||
E4 | Dead arm on the panic button | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
3stars! You have to be joking, flaky rubbish.
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★★ Above and beyond | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice short finger crack
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E4 6a | ★ Hello picasso | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves, didn't trust rock
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Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas | ||||||
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Bishops | ||||||
VS 4c | ★ Lyin eyes | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice crack
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