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Ascents in Africa by Vanessa Wills

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 117 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Toxo Tiana Toxo tiana
6a Unknown Sport 30m Average
6a+ Rosalinda Sport 30m Good
If only the rock wasn't as sharp in this area

 
Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Festival Across the road
6b+ Sachsen-yousseff Sport 99m Don't Bother
First pitch only, then we bailed. Rock dangerous, many loose blocks- and I can tolerate choss!

 
Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Left
6a+ Undercut start to slab Sport 20m Good
Very Nowra start, and a bad warm up

 
Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Right
5c La taranga Sport Good
My poor fingers

 
5c La gartuela Sport Good
A bit sharp on the warm down

 
Wed 5th Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Left
6a+ 6b Donne moi Sport 30m Very Good
Rather pumpy while trying to find the huge hidden pockets

 
6c+ Jalufa Unknown 30m Classic
Did the crux and succumbed to a reach issue that essentially had a dyno for me on the second attempt. Marvellous climbing, very varied.

 
5c+ Unknown 12 Unknown 31m Good
Ok, with nice but runout moves up a massive hollow flake to anchors

 
6b+ 6c Gualajob Sport 30m Very Good
Stupid foot slip on some slimy limestone

 
6a+ 6b Corpino Sport 30m Very Good
Not too sharp, and nice pockets

 
6c Tjazmatalas Unknown 30m Good
One hard move with out good reach, had to use some rather sloppy intermediates.

 
7a+ Santé suriana (Sant Sarrana) Sport 30m Very Good
Had a top rope from where dave came down, but on sighted through the crux correcting several mistakes with a great deal of pump.

 
6c 6b Corpino Sport 30m Good
A bit escapable I think

 
Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Upper Tier Ansamer
6a Enfants gates Sport 25m Good
Tough start

 
5c Balafon Sport 25m Average
Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Right
6b 6a Amour Sport 33m Good
Hard start up r facing corner

 
Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Petite Gorge Petite Gorge Left
6b+ Tamazirt Unknown 55m Average
First pitch only as warm up

 
6b Unknown 13 Unknown 31m Good
Rather run out in places

 
7a Ensalada Metalica Unknown 30m Classic
Amazing series of pockets up blunt overhanging arete

 
Fri 28th Feb 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Upper Tier Winter Gardens
7a+ Afrique Physique Unknown 25m Classic
Not sure if this was the route, but in the middle oft he 7a+section. Interesting slab then rising traverse right on overhung wall. Starts just left of boulder pile at highest part of wall

 
6b 6c+ Plaisir Unknown 90m Average
Sharp at end of day

 
6b Mets la jambe (Jardin D'Hiver) Unknown 22m Very Good
Steep little wall and a good kneebar

 
6c+ Unknown 11 Unknown 22m Good
Interesting up seam and pumpy overt he bulge

 
6b+ C'est plus dur qu'a doite (Unknown 12) Sport 25m Good
Cruised the underling start and almost came unstuck through juggy overhang

 
Fri 28th Feb 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Main Gorge Pilier Du Couchant
6a+ La Classique Sport 290m, 12 Very Good
Alt leads with dave, did in 6 long pitches. Some really interesting sections. Glad we took a rack! The guide says only quick draws but it's old school with bolts pitons and long run outs and difficult route finding.

 
Fri 28th Feb 2014 - Haut Atlas
Gorges du Todgha Main Gorge Plage Mansour Plage Mansour Left
5b 5c Interrogation (Unknown 6) Sport 30m, 8 Average
5b Trop Unknown Average
Just another line of bolts

 
6a+ Amigo Mia (Unknown 9) Sport 10 Good
Interesting start and end

 
6a+ Incha Allah Sport Good
Rock a bit sharp

 
Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
North side Jbel el-Kest Idaouganif Adrar umlil Tower 3
E2 5c Leaving las vegas Trad 40m Good
Last quick route. Nice but not E2. Lots of rests.

 
Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
North side Jbel el-Kest Idaouganif Adrar umlil Tower2
HVS 5b HVS 5b The Lion King (The Lon king) Trad 200m Classic
We found nice white rock again!

 
Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
North side Jbel el-Kest Afantinzar Eagle crags Lower eagle
VS 4c VS 4c Pink Lady Trad 230m Good
Not that classic climbing, though pleasant view. Was rather chilly when we did it

 
Tue 25th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
North side Jbel el-Kest Sidi M'Zal Tizi gzaouline crag
HVS 5b Flashpump Trad 20m Average
Quite pumpy, average rock.

 
VS 4c Chasing rainbows Trad 34m Good
A bit ledgy

 
HS 4b HS 4b The lion tamer Trad 30m Good
Nice middle section

 
VS 4c VS 4c Cirque de soleil Trad 30m Average
Rock a bit flaky and start disconcerting

 
Fri 21st Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Anirgui Lower crag
S Southwest ridge Trad 300m Good
2pitches, soloed rest. Nice and airy ascent and start of a 1000m ascent enchainment

 
Fri 21st Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Anirgui Upper crag
VD The angels crest Trad 160m
Did 1 60m pitch in steepest part, soloed rest.

 
Fri 21st Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Anirgui Jebel el kest
3 South ridge Trad 500m Classic
Along with se ridge lower anergui and angel crest traverse to summit jebel el kest, and long descent, a great day out

 
Thu 20th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge East bank
E5 6b Sentry Duty Trad 30m Good
FFA.

 
E5 6b E5 6b Sentry Duty Trad 30m Good
Marred by some blocky rock low. Some preplaced gear on top rope practice went into this. Nice upper 2/3

 
S Ca Va Trad 30m Good
Much nicer than expected, getting to anchors for cleaning other routes.

 
Tue 18th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Goat
VS 4c VS 4c Goat evaporator Trad 30m Good
Quite a nice corner

 
E3 5b Cristal Trad 30m Very Good
If only there was more rock this quality.

 
Tue 18th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Outlaw
VS 4c VS 4c Will Scarlet Trad 15m Good
Nice little route. But back to friable rock

 
VS 4c Outlaw Trad 15m Good
Efficiency mode

 
Mon 17th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Entrance wall
HS 4b Tumbleweed Trad 25m Average
Mon 17th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Touareg tower
VS 4c Original route Trad 30m Average
Can't remember much due to concentrating on a no climbing muscle......

 
E4 6b Too Close to Zero Trad 30m Good
It was freezing and spitting rain and my gear consisted of rps and microcams

 
Sat 15th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
North side Jbel el-Kest Afantinzar Ksar Rock Cannon Tower
HVS 5a Kingpin Trad 30m Good
End of day lap to retrieve ropes

 
S Desert man Trad 55m Good
Ledgy

 
VS 4c Morocco coco Trad 65m Good
Quick run up the rap rope

 
HVS 5b Iron maiden Trad 55m Good
Nice moves

 
MVS 4b MVS 4b Sahara Trad 55m Good
Amazing jugs, I just don't trust them. It's not arapiles

 
E1 5b E1 5b Pelez Trad 35m Good
Nice moves. Average rock

 
Fri 14th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Tafraoute Granite Painted Rocks The Blue Rocks
5b+ 5+ Azules de Vergara Trad 20m Good
A novelty, le fissure bleu with tourist audience

 
Thu 13th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Tagditch/ Tamaloucht Thyme buttress
E4 6a Sultans of swing Trad 20m Good
Tried to lead it and wimped out. It actually wasn't that bad. There are harder 20s at araps.

 
VS 5a VS 5a Banshee Trad 12m Good
Choss start then ok laybacking

 
S Banshee 3 Trad 12m Don't Bother
Not my best fa. But while we were in the area......

 
VS 4b Banshee arete Trad 15m Average
FFA. Second dave. Ok rock until the top

 
E2 5b E2 5b Thyme crack Trad 40m Very Good
A pleasant crack and a fresh sling and Biner to lower off as a bonus

 
Wed 12th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Iguerdane Blue spring Main wall
VS 4a VS 4a Call to pimms Trad 10m Average
Crux is quite height dependent. Hardest move on this wall for me.

 
VS 4c VS 4c Thetwits Trad 10m Average
HVS 4c HVS 4c Wo is chris Waddle and what is the fast show? Trad 10m Average
E1 5a E1 5a Fear of shakespear Trad 10m Average
Not sure how it scores E1, perhaps if leading rather than solo

 
HS Meterologicos Mit Paula (Meteorological smith Paula) Trad 10m Average
VD Securitat Trad 10m Average
VS 4c VS 4c Aloe aloe Trad 10m Average
Wed 12th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Iguerdane Blue spring Blue spring crack pinnacle
MVS 4a Blue spring crack Trad 9m Average
About 5 m of climbing

 
VS 5a VS 5a Edison's revenge Trad 9m Good
Tricky move to get established without landing in cactus

 
HVS 4c Hop Trad 8m Average
Essentially a solo

 
S Jump Trad 8m Average
S Bee sahara Trad 11m Good
Exposed for such a short route

 
E1 5c Travel bug Trad 20m Very Good
FFA. Great moves, rock and protection

 
Tue 11th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Entrance wall
S Trader Vic's Trad 25m Average
Solo up

 
VS 4b Rockin zebra Trad 25m Average
Solo down, perhaps I should have done the other way around

 
Tue 11th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge East bank
E4 5c Casino royale Trad 30m Average
The rock was a bit scary. Tr it after we did tresonga as same abseil point. Pumpy.

 
E2 5c Tresonga Trad 30m Good
Not bad for a wide crack, though a bit grimy.

 
Tue 11th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Touareg tower
MVS 4b MVS 4b Jarrad Trad 30m Good
Quite a nice route, about Grade 14

 
Sun 9th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Lion's Head Crag G
VS 4b Unchained melody Trad 51m Average
FFA. Under a chain anchor which may get repeats

 
HVS 5a Secateurs Trad 80m Good
FFA. 2 good pitches up amazing juggy quartzite

 
HVS 5b Bimocco direct finish Trad 20m Good
FFA. Seconded dave up the steepish layback corner

 
Sat 8th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Oumsnat Palm tree gorge Touareg tower
E2 5b Salif keita Trad 30m Average
Slightly suspect rock and some cacti

 
E3 6a Scimitar Trad 30m Very Good
Interesting moves and spaced but solid gear. Maybe should have led....

 
E2 5c E2 5c Baba maal Trad 30m Good
Nice moves but some suspect rock

 
VS 4b Farouks fundamentals Trad 30m Good
Not bad for the grade

 
VS 4c VS 4c Crocodile dundee Trad 35m Average
Definitely not worth 2 stars.

 
E2 5b Thierry le frond Trad 30m Good
FFA. Our first morocco fa.and a nice obvious line to boot

 
Fri 7th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Tizgut Tizgut gorge East wall
E2 5c E2 5c Tagine Trad 120m Classic
Linked p1 and most of 2. Fell of fat overhanging hand jam and lowered to no hands rest. No way I was going to do the first 15 m again. Scary. The rest of route was excellent

 
E2 5b E2 5b Tizgut crack Trad 100m Very Good
Led p2. Pretty nice but easier than a pipes 18. It is a joe brown route however.

 
VS 4c VS 4c Salus Trad 70m Don't Bother
Not sure how this gets 2stars.

 
Thu 6th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Tafraoute Granite Aguerd oudad Black wall
6a The black wall Trad 30m Classic
30m with every move at the grade, and spicy bolting

 
Unnamed offwidth start Trad 30m Good
Our rest day sports climbing- and I end up on an offwidth!

 
Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Bishops
HVS 5a HVS 5a There goes everything Trad 15m Average
Some dodgy rock and a bit run out

 
Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest Tifghalt White tower
HVS 5a HVS 5a The white tower original route Trad 170m Classic
Led p 2,4 lovely white quartzite reminiscent of Electra but much better gear!

 
Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Roadside
E4 Dead arm on the panic button Boulder 20m Don't Bother
3stars! You have to be joking, flaky rubbish.

 
E2 5c E2 5c Above and beyond Trad 12m Very Good
Really nice short finger crack

 
E4 6a Hello picasso Trad 20m Good
Some nice moves, didn't trust rock

 
Wed 5th Feb 2014 - Anti-Atlas
South side Jbel el-Kest tagmout Robin Hood Rocks Bishops
VS 4c Lyin eyes Trad 15m Good
Nice crack

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 117 ascents.

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