Routes in Africa for selected grade

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start as for Modell Robber but climb out left through the small roof and finish up left of the arete. "Best of its grade in Rocklands"

Originally graded 6b+. 8a.nu suggests that it might be harder.

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Sit-start with large rail and climb up the face.

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Sit-start with jugs and climb up the arete.

6B+ originally but majority of ascents on 8a.nu suggest 6c.

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Previously known as Tears for Fears

Brenda Marx

Sit-start with flake / jug, move right and throw up right.

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Sit/crouch start with both hands on the good edge. Climb up to the poor undercling and along the crack to top out.

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25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of 'Chocolate Éclair'. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of 'Freak On'. Dry in all weather.

Sit-start with small holds, move up to good holds then to sloper with left hand and finish up on jugs.

#sd

Sit-start with large rail, climb up left, throw up to lip and mantle

Beautiful route between Nemesis and Twisted Sisters, with interesting but pumpy moves and one decent rest. Now has new anchor bolts installed. In memory of Jason Spindler!

Start with jugs to the left of the small cave, traverse right and finish up corner.

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From the large undercling climb diagonally left up the face. Top out as sunset traverse.

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From the large edge traverse right along the lip

To the right of Braai Lord, sit start and move up blunt prow using slopers. Defo harder if you're short

Zoe Duby at 04:09

Sit-start and climb up to the right of the arete.

Climb the arete.

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Sit-start on the right and climb diagonally left through the roof.

Sit-start with large sidepull, climb up right and throw for the top. You can also traverse in from the right along the rail.

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Sit-start and climb straight up the hueco face

Stand start on the right and move through the roof to top out on the far left.

Really awesome boulder problem, most aesthetic line in the area - Guy Paterson-Jones

Sit start on the sea side of the boulder, near the tree stump, with your hands in the rail and your foot near the lip. Climb under the boulder to finish on the up side. This is an awesome warm-up - with no hard moves in 8m of roof/ cave climbing. (Named after the voyage in Star Wars Episode 1)

Sit start from the obvious hold, move up left then climb up right. Don't use the pedestal for the feet.

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Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with small jug, climb up to the lip and finish up the slab.

Take Arthur's Horror as far as the big block belay below the final pitch. Take the obvious flake up from here and step right to small ledge. Continue up rightwards to a point below bolt. This route thrillingly makes its way up to the right of the bolt, edges leftwards above and up (fixed peg pro), to awkward moves on final few feet of cliff. You'll love every second! Downgrade to E2 6a in 2022.

Sitstart on RH arête and climb through the big pocket. Tend left before the finishing straight up with a RF mantle.

Start as The Dirty German but move to good crimp and dyno up.

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Start with pocket and climb out right on pockets.

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Sit-start, traverse the long crack out left with a hard move at the end then traverse the ledge back right and finish up high above where you started.

Sit-start with large jug and climb up the high arete.

Start as for Guns & Buckets. Immediately after the big roof with the twin cracks, veer slightly right and pull through on mega jugs until established on the headwall. Continue easily up to the anchor.

Sit-start with flake and climb up the face.

Climb the left side of the cracked slab.

Stand start on the left side of the boulder, traverse across the middle of the face, and finish up the same moves as Rooster Tail. Pumpy!

12mm hangers. Climb what looks like solidified mud to the large "shark-tooth" under the roof. From here, a bouldery move gains the headwall. Continue up for a fantastic finish right of Fleurs chains.

Start as for Jaws. Veer right immeadiately after pulling the big roof to finish at the chains of Guns & Buckets

Sit-start with low jug and climb rightwards up the wall.

Awesome. Starts on 'Rude Bushmen' or 'Welcome to Ovamboland', then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

Up the middle of the boulder, traverse left on crimps, then same top out as Treehugger

Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of 'Dexter's Lab'. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.

Sit start low under corner, off the rocks. RH on good edge right of the arete, left hand at same level left of the erete. Wrap left hand on edge low and to left of the arete, climb the corner using edges on both sides of the arete to finish out right of arete and top out.

An independent line starting just right of Mystique. Follow the plum line of expansion bolts to a set of chains left of Jaws' anchor.

Highball. Crouch start below and right of the horizontal crack on a pinch and an edge, moves left following the crack and then goes straight up.

Start matched low in The Shark's mouth at the end of the toothy rail. A fun traverse along the razor sharp teeth end in big moves to the shark's nose.

Start to the left of Dump Truck, on wide crimps. Staying left of Dump Truck, go up through a couple of powerful moves and an easier top-out.

Sit-start with crimps and climb up past a hole.

Same start position as Tiny scissors, difficult traverse requiring finger strength and tension to finish up Little Knife, using the slightly hollow but good flake as an undercling. A couple of excruciatingly sharp holds but fun movements!

Start as The Vice but finish out right along the rail.

A short and powerful line. Often overlooked, but worth climbing. Many ways to pull the crux. Always seems desperate.

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30m+ route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the compression arete.

A tall, classic stand-alone line up arguably the cleanest face on the plains area. Start crouched, matching on lowest usable crimp rail. There are multiple ways to solve the problem above and become worthy of the legendary Ring.

Sit-start with good hold and climb up right.

Climb Girl on Our Mind but move left and climb up right of crack

Sit-start under small roof, move to a flake and climb up right.

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

Stand-start on the good holds in the middle "corner" of the boulder. Find th only decent hold up and right from there, get your right foot high and mantle hard to the top.

Start left hand in pocket and right hand on good side pull, moves right and up on slopers, crimps, and small feet. One of my all-time favorites at Lukenya! On the backside of the boulder - needs at least two pads and a decent spotter to avoid the nearby boulder in a fall.

Permadraws at the top. There are 7 bolts - where there are two bolts near each other, perhaps only clip the bottom more safer one.

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

Stand-start on small crimps, work your way left then up on small but positive holds. Cool movement, and not as bad for your fingers as the name suggests!

Starts just left of Fleur. Pull through a small roof and climb up to a hanging piece of rock dubbed "the anchor". Perch here for a rest before climbing up and right to join Fleur for the last few moves to the chains.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Crouch-start with rail and climb up on good edges.

Sit-start from a squarish hold under the arete. Powerful first move up to a crack, then easier but fun moves up the arete to finish.

Aka something related to mental and disease. Up the face to the left of the cave perched boulder, on the side facing Mombasa Road. Sit-start on the lowest reachable holds then work up and slightly right before a heady top-out.

Sit-start on top of Boulder K and climb through the small roof.

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Start as Orange but climb out right on crimps

Sit-start with fragile hueco, climb out right and up using incut crimp.

Steep line first opened on natural gear.

Sit-start with shelf and mantle into Looking for Freedom

After a bouldery start, head up and right. Once in the big roof, you will climb the Cape Fear flake (on its left hand side) to pull through at the obvious break at the lip. A few more moves leads to the anchor. A very fine route.

Start on top of the flat rock and climb straight up.

Sit start, climb up and top out without using the rock on the right

On the back side of the boulder. Starts on big jugs, moves left on good hold and heel-hooks until a big move up and over the bulge. FA proved that knees can legitimately be used in climbing, despite jealous naysayers.

Sitstart on jug rail at lip of roof, climb straight up to the obvious round two finger pocket, TO.

Beautiful line going up the arete, avoiding Razorback holds until the jug for the topout. Sit start low to the left of the arete, come round to the right of it to a good crimp, then a big move up the slanting crack. Keep it together and go for the finishing jug before the same topout as Razorback.

Sit start on low rail. Make big move up to the crimp and commit to the top out.

Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.

Starts from the boulders just above the lower pool. There is a dyno start with the route going left and finishing up and around the corner. The old bolts still need to be removed and must not be used at all.

Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Airy at the top.