Routes in Africa for selected grade

Around the corner on the same boulder as Six Inch Punch. Stand start matched on the sloping rail with a heelhook. Make a move to a good pocket and top out.

Same start as 3 on the low, big jugs. Traverse left and up on jugs. From final jug, make a big move to a small hold, then up to large lip on right. (Or top out if you're bold!)

About 5m left from the low, big jugs or 4m right of the deep corner. Climb up to blunt lip. Follow the lip on small holds until the big lip (same top as 4).

Start on the right end of the next small cove. Traverse left keeping feet above the low quartz line. Finish to the left of the small peaked roof.

The same small cove, but start on its left end. Seated start on poor holds. Traverse right to the middle, then up and right to finish right of the small roof.

A line at the top of the gully behind THAT LITTLE FAGOT.

1. [25] 15m Start at the bucket right of the bolt. Up to a bolt (RP2 and RP1). Left past the bolt and then follow the line to the top.

About 50m right of Coming Of Age are three parallel, rightward tending cracks like giant Velociraptor claw marks. The route climbs the middle crack.

1. Climb the crack past two overlaps to the roof. Reach out right and pull round the roof and onto a small, bulging slab. Make a semi-hanging stance here. Combining this and the next pitch could work but rope drag might be a problem.

2. Climb the steep crack to the big roof. Hanging stance in the corner.

3. Rail right and pull through the roof in the crack. Follow the crack until it runs out and then continue up on the grey face to the top. Descent: Scramble up and left into the big Panic Sloot Gully and thence to the top.

Start on the extreme left of the Wild Sky ledge. Climb up diagonally left to the first small roof (the protruding block is just to the left). Traverse right, then up the wall via berserk moves to a jug. Move left beneath the second small roof to a huge jug and then up the wall to exit slightly right on white rock.

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right-hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

1. 25 m (21) From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.

2. 15 m (25) The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.

3. 20 m (18) Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.

4. 50 m (18) Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.

5. 35 m (21) Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

Instead of wandering back and forth, climb straight up using long reaches.

Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Start 20m right of Snake In The Grass. At this point, the large roof on the left ends and another starts on the right about 2m higher up.

1. 20 m (25) From a projecting, good edge at head height, pull up past three rails into a short brown corner. A hard move (past an old peg) gets one to the roof. Traverse left until the roof almost peters out and crank up to the next rail. Move 2m right, up to the next rail, and back left to another old peg. From here head 3m diagonally up and right across a face to a hanging stance left of a bulge.

2. 15 m (21) Climb up and then right to a recess. Continue straight up to a wide rail under a roof. Traverse right until able to pull through the roof at its narrowest point. Stance just above in a vague corner.

3. 25 m (23) Step left and head up through a stepped series of roofs to a hand jam rail below the last roof. Head right over the void until able to pull up onto the face. Continue up to a spacious ledge.

4. 35 m (21) Climb up on the good orange rock, just right of a black scrappy corner, to another ledge. Move right until below a corner and featured arete about 10m higher up. Continue straight up to this corner, and then climb to the right on the featured arete until you reach the walk-off ledge. Descent: Stroll rightwards along the walk-off ledge until you can scramble down below the Black Ice Wall. Perhaps one day some strong blokes will find a way from the walk off ledge to the summit.

📷 Hilton and Tinie on the FA

Pitch 1: 15m Grade 21 Start a bit right of safari and climb up and a bit left at the top to a stance under a left of a roof

Pitch 2: 25m Grade 24+ Climb through the break in the roof a bit right of the stance and continue up the face to the big tea cave ledge where you can walk off

Pitch 3: 8m Grade 19 From the big slot cave stand on a cairn to the left to reach the high rail and do a hard move and the scramble to another big ledge below the huge roof

Pitch 4: 20m Grade 25 Start left of the big flat rock and climb up to the roof break, which has a green triangle jug in the beginning, at the lip go left to a jug and then up right to 2 pegs and continue a little way up to a stance

Pitch 5: 15m Grade 20 Climb up to the top

NOTE: one can also walk in from the tea cave level and do pitch 3 and then do the money pitch (4) From the big ledge above and lower off the pegs like a sport route And rap off tat down Pitch 3 then walk back to the tea cave

About 20m downstream of 'Sea Of Madness' and 'The Cruise' is a lower short buttress.

1. 12m 25 Climb up the middle of this short buttress.

Note: Small friends and bolts.

The crux was done with a slightly extended pre-placed yellow alien to make it safe.

A superb route on a steep wall. Start as for Adam. Pull through the small triangular roof and continue up the wall keeping to the left of the Think Twice corner. Move left and then up to the bolt. Finish up the break.

Excellent single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of Cat's Pyjamas. Almost 5 star. Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge.

Specialist gear required.

A fixed runner was used as aid on the first ascent. The first free ascent awaits! The first ascentionists were UK climbers of the 'Hot Rock Global Challenge Team'.

Start as for Powderfinger. Pull through the roof between White Rider and Powderfinger. Thin moves past a peg lead to good rails. Finish as for White Rider.

An alternative third pitch to Whinge taking the blank face left of the arete.

NB: This route requires very small micro nuts and was head pointed on pre-placed gear.

1. As for Whinge

2. As for Whinge

3. 25R/ X Start about 4m to the left of the arete at a good rail. Climb up a few meters to some small crimps in a thin rail. Traverse right on hard, very thin moves to an undercling flake and then climb up and left to better crimps. Continue directly up a vague break to a good rail where one moves right to join the arete.

4. As for Whinge

5. As for Whinge

Right-leaning finger crack.

Climb the wall just right of Fall Out to the ledge. Follow the discontinuous crack right of Fall Out to a rail. Move right and up a diagonal crack to exit.

This route starts just behind the large tree on a ledge in the center of the cliff.

An excellent sport route that awaits a second pitch! Climb up a tricky intro to tackle a bulge. From above the bulge, mantle to an easy slab before one final steep section with thoughtful climbing. Be careful of some crumbly holds and rock, and at last visit a quite incredible amount of baboon poop at the base.

Longer than 30 m so have a 70 or 80 m rope if planning to lower off - you can abseil back to ledge with a 60 m rope though if you bring your partner up from the top.

1. [17] 8m

2. [25] 22m

3. [25] 28m

A beautifully striking crack that looks like it's going to be a pleasant outing of casual jams.

Right of QUINTESSENCE.

1. 10m 25 Start as for QUINTESSENCE and step right at the overlap. Up left of the peg, finish straight up.

Climb the wall, through the overlap and up the crack to a stance

This is an eliminate between Direct Insult and Angel Dust. The moves are harder than Angel Dust, but are better protected. Start as for Angel Dust. Climb the crack and continue straight up past the big rail, and then directly up the wall above keeping to the right of Angel Dust. The finish is marked by a short crack.

1. [20] 40m

2. [25] 30m

Start from the "nose" stance after the 3rd pitch of Lost Tribe.

A direct, sustained and wild route with good gear and continually engaging climbing. It was established with repeats in mind and has occasional bolts. A must-do. Gear: Double rack of cams from black alien to #2 camalot with triples of blue to grey alien equivalents. Singles of cams #3 and #4. Single set of nuts from DMM #1 to #9 plus a set of offset nuts to #7 DMM equivalent. Micro nuts not necessary. Supplementary Wild Country superlight rocks (the single-stem ones) are useful but not essential.

Start about 15m right of the massive pillar of YOU ONLY LIVE TWICE, beneath a short, wide crack formed by a fin 10m up. This is just left of a cluster of large boulders. The eventual aim (on pitch 6) is the impressive, overhanging arête which dominates the top half of the wall.

1. 24 45m. Jikkels. An intricate and sustained journey. Take all the gear, except cams #0.75, #1, #2 and #4. Follow the vague break, place the #3 cam on the right, then run it out rightwards past the fin to jugs. Traverse 2m left into the main break then up to a small ledge where the crack ends. Traverse left across a smooth wall to a narrow dihedral. Problem-solve gear in a bizarre hole, then climb left and down to jugs just left of the arête. Climb straight up (tricky) to the overlap in white rock above. Keep going to the big hollow flake (crux), move slightly left then up to a jug, then rail right and up to a bolt. Step right and climb the vague corner. Traverse right just above the small roof to a thin crack then straight up to a good ledge (bolted anchor).

2. 25 45m. Stikkels. Take all the gear, except cams #1 to #3. The aim is to break through the obvious notch in the roofs about 15m right of the stance. Climb up on the right to a rail. Step left and jettison the #4 cam about 5m directly above the stance. Traverse 3m right then up and left to a flake. Up this to hollow blocks then up to another large good flake. Don’t go up or left to the choss. Instead, traverse right about 4m then a big crank straight up to a ledge with a small grotty tree/bush. Traverse right then up to a hidden bolt on the right beneath the roof. It’s about 21 to here. Make a long reach to get hands above the roof, then keep cranking until feet are above the lip. Step left to a perch. Continue easily up and left about 8m to a small ledge – small cams.

3. 23 45m. Frikkels. Classic like Boven. Take double small cams to #0.5, single cams above this to #1 and all the wires. Climb the easy but runout ramp on the right then step left onto a big ledge (good bivi for 2, uncomfortable for 3). PSYCHO REPTILE climbs up and left and then back right into the steep, left-facing, narrow dihedral. Instead, climb up and diagonally right past a bolt to a vertical crack. Up this then step right at a second bolt. Up to a third bolt, then back left to a jug. Straight up to a small perch (PSYCHO REPTILE re-joins here). Do a runout traverse right to easier ground, then up to a ledge (PR goes right from here). Traverse left and climb up to a bolted stance on a large block.

4. 21 45m. Bring route-finding skills. Take double small cams to #0.5, single cams above this to #4 and all the wires. Save cams #2 to #4 for the stance (especially if hauling). Up to a bolt, then climb diagonally up and left. Follow the path of least resistance by trending up and left, always on good clean rock, until a bolt is visible about 6m above. Climb up and right, then traverse left to the bolt which protects a few moves on a hollow flake. Climb up then left onto a leftwards-diagonal ramp. Finish up an easy short, right-facing corner to an amazing ledge (good bivi for 4). Stance off cams in the top rail.

5. 25 45m. The Business. Simply amazing. Take all the gear, except blue and black aliens. Keep a few small cams for the stance. From the left end of the ledge climb over ledges to the obvious crack. Follow this over a (solid) bulging block then step left to a foot perch just below the big roof (shared with YOLT to here, which then goes right). Climb the crack above and follow it leftwards into the dihedral to eventually make heart-breaking crux moves to exit onto a good ledge.

6. 21R 30m. Beware of loose rock. Take all the gear to cam #0.5, singles of #0.75 to #3 and all the wires. Cam #4 not necessary. Climb the chossy corner above the left end of the ledge until just before it slabs out. Place good kit and traverse right on hollow yellow lichen rock, then up to the right edge of a ledge system that goes into the alcove up and left. Avoid the alcove – instead traverse right then trend up and right to a good rail in welcome solid rock. Traverse right then up to a small ledge with a large cammed flake. Continue up right to belay on Giggle Ledge - an outrageous sloping perch on the arête. YOLT comes into this ledge from right of the big arête.

7. 21 20m. Grey Groove. Take all the gear to cam #1, singles of #2 and #3 and all the wires. Save one each of cams #1 to #3 for the stance. Exit the ledge up and right (shared with YOLT). Instead of moving right on that route to bird shit ledges, climb the grey groove on the left wall. When this dies, step left to the arête and make wildly exposed moves up to a ridiculously awesome perch.

8. 22 50m. The Emotional Pitch. It’s better than therapy. Take all the gear. Move about 5m left then up to an obvious dihedral capped by small roofs. Up the dihedral, then rail right at the roofs and mantle onto a small ledge. Climb the blunt arête just above the left edge of the ledge. Up and left then up the smooth wall past a bolt and crucial flake to a big rail. Rail right then up to a rest with an obvious crack above. Swim up the jams and funkiness just left of the detached (but solid) pillar. At a big jug traverse right over the top of the pillar, then climb the crack above. Exit this leftwards to obviously easier ground. Swing onto a crazy horn, then slightly left and up to hero jugs. Let it all out, and be sure to look straight down to the start of the route. Rail right on the narrow ledge to the arête, then scramble up 5m to the next ledge. Traverse back left to belay above the hero jugs.

9. 19 15m. Climb a few meters up the bushy break on the left. Move left onto a rounded prow and climb this to the massive top-out ledge. Coil the ropes and put on approach shoes. Walk off about 40m leftwards through the bush to a big, open terrace. Keep traversing left until able to scramble easily up to the summit.

Variations: P3 can be dodged (grade 20) by climbing PSYCHO REPTILE’s’s pitch just to the left. P5 can be dodged (grade 21) by continuing rightwards up YOLT, then breaking left into the greenish hanging corner to Giggle Ledge. A less aesthetic version of P7 (similar grade) is to continue up YOLT’s corner to a rail which then goes hard left to the awesome perch.

Climb up the wall, through the overlap to a bolt. Up jugs to finish.

The big block on the approach path.

The hardest trad line at AG, this steep left-trending crack gets finger thin and then transitions to a vertical crack at the crux. Shares anchor with Anbessa. So far, unrepeated.

1. [12] 23m

2. [25] 35m

Excellent single pitch high up on the cliff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FZ4iTP48pY

Rap in to the ledge and climb the white slab/face to the left of 'Bumping Weight Tosser'. Wanders around a bit to contrive gear

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

1. 45m 16 Climb a few metres up the corner and then move right on to the face. Climb tending leftwards to the base of a short corner crack. Climb this and finish up and right to a stance.

2. 35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance, then climb trending slightly leftwards to a reasonable ledge.

3. 35m 15 Climb the water worn scoop above trending right at the top to exit on to the mega Grassy Ledge. Walk about 10m to the right.

4. 20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. VARIATION 40m 21 (not recommended – lots of bird shit): Start further right and climb the recess that leads to a ledge just left of the big roofs (as for BLUE MOON and WOW FUCK). Rail left for 5m until able to pull onto the face. Climb diagonally up and left over bird-shit until able to step left to the pegs on pitch 5. Either take a hanging stance here, or, if you have enough gear, continue up the rest of pitch 5.

5. 45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing.

6. 25m 25 From the front of the jumbo ledge, below the 1.5m high step in the ledge (i.e. from the lower ledge), climb easily up the leftward diagonal crack to a two foot roof. Move through this and up the crack above to stance above the next overlap. There is good gear below the crux sequence.

7. 35m 20 Move left then up and right into a thin crack. Climb up a bit and then head leftwards to the base of a clean corner system. Climb the corners to exit left to a long ledge. Scuttle left to belay about 3m beyond the obvious off-width crack.

8. 40m 20 Climb up about 5m to gain a crack. Climb this to stance at the highest ledge.

9. 45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Step left at the top of the slab to below a roof crack. Up this keeping right at first then exit left to the ledge. Stay roped to scramble rightwards up the stepped ledge system and then up to the top.

Notes:

1. In the interests of the quest for consumer climbing on the big blue mountain, this RD is a stand-alone version of a pretty direct variation of existing routes up the craggy section of the main wall with a few new pitches thrown in for good measure. HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2, 3, 8 and 9) and SOMETHING OF VALUE (pitch 4 and first half of pitch 5). The second half of pitch 5 and pitches 6 and 7 are independent of other routes.

Takes the steep crack through the bulge left of Snake Charmer.

Scramble up to the platform. Straight up the face to the roof. Pull through the roof (micro cams for pro) to the short, fierce crack. Continue up the featured recess then step 1.5m left and straight to the top.

Consensus grading required. Height, finger size and faith in small gear might affect how hard it feels.

See details: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108135069/hyenas-secret

Varied climbing, with a short, fierce section on the crux pitch.

1. 10m (18) Climb the Bust Up crack to the small ledge on the left.

2. 15m (22) Start by an old peg and climb up ~3m to a thin rail. Traverse left to the next old peg and follow the crack system up and very slightly right to reach the stance shared with Daddy Long Legs (peg under a small overlap)

3. 15m (25/26) Follow the crack on the right side of the stance to the left end of a narrow roof. Pull up to some underclings and traverse ~3m right and then up to a thin rail (micro cams useful). A hard move up to the next rail and then a long pull to a pocket above the narrow overlap. Head diagonally left to the wide rail below the main roof at the height of the Bust Up flake. Abseil point (hex and cam) in situ.

The pegs on pitch 2 were from a potential alternate start to Bust Up attempted by Greg Mosely and Andy Killick in 1971!

A physically and mentally demanding voyage…

Start on Dingiswayo but continue up the big corner and then fight through the slick, undercut open book (take care with cams as the rock is hard and slippery). At the roof rail left to where the finger crack continues up to the final roof. At this point, there is a very narrow horizontal slot for micro cams that are strenuous and fiddly to place. Embrace the run out and traverse left across the tricky face for ±3m to a good foothold and horizontal seam for micro nuts – these features are at a point below a good undercling in the final roof. Head up to the roof, and at the undercling and pull back right through the roof on great holds. Notes: Double ropes recommended. Consensus grading needed – cruxes are about grade 24, but the overall experience is considerably harder.

Takes a direct line, between SOV and TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC. Start 5m right of SOV below an overlap which turns into a short, right-facing corner higher up.

1. 35m 22 The One-More-Time Pitch. Climb 5m to the small roof, then rightwards into the overlap. Climb up to another small roof and rail right, then up the rightfacing corner above. The crack pinches out here so traverse 3m right to a crack. Up this to just below where it dies, then traverse 4m back left to rejoin the original crack line. Climb this to a ledge shared with SOV.

2. 40m 18 Up then slightly left from the stance, through some steep rock, to a ledge. Traverse right to a small amphitheatre with a short corner on each side and a big roof above. Climb up to the apex of the left hand right-facing corner, layback round the small roof to under the big roof. Rail left to a ledge.

3. 40m 17 Traverse 10m left. Climb a shattered pillar to the next ledge. Head diagonally right then up to the grassy ledge.

4. 40m 21 Rolling Stones Pitch. There are big roofs above the right hand half of the ledge. A massive corner with three roofs breaks through to the left of the biggest roofs. Climb the recess to a ledge beneath the corner (shared with WOW FUCK). Climb the corner, railing right under the first and second roof. Just after the second roof, traverse right across the face to an outrageous foot ledge on the skyline. Climb up the prow then step back left into the corner (now above the final roof). Climb this to a good small ledge.

5. 50m 18 Step right and make thin moves up to a big rail. Traverse about 8m right to a vertical crack, up this then rail right to another vertical crack. Up again then step right to belay beneath the middle of 3 cracks (the right hand diagonal crack in a yellow wall is TBP, SOV breaks through the roofs about 20 or 30m left).

6. 35m 25 Legoland pitch. "This 'aint no sport route". Savour the warm-up moves in the corner until able to step left around the arête onto a slab. Climb up the small trapezoid pillar on the left then pull through the bulge to a rail. Breathe through your arse as you move up and left to a bolt. Diabolical crimps lead horizontally left to a rest beneath the next bolt. Climb up past the bolt and traverse thankfully left to juglets. Up to the big ledge. Walk left to below the large right-facing corner. TBP goes up the face with 2 bolts to the right.

7. 35m 23 Knifeblade Pitch. Climb the corner, past a peg. Traverse right to a small ledge. Climb the crack above the left hand side of the ledge & follow the break curving up left. Traverse left until able to easily climb up to a good ledge.

8. 60m 21 Walk 5m right to a sheltered alcove. Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope.

9. 30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.

Notes:

1. A well-protected route. Pitches 6 and 7 are bold, but safe. Bolts (60mm, M10 stainless steel, placed in 2005) and peg (BD knifeblade, 2005) placed on abseil.

2. Gear: double rack of small cams, small wires on pitch 1, #3 Camalot on pitch 7.

3. Pitches 4, 6 & 7 cleaned and inspected on abseil and mostly top-roped before being led. Pitches 6, 7 & 8 opened, subsequently freed.

Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it!

Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face.

1. 28m (24) Start as for Incy Wincy Spider. At the first rail, move left and then up over easy ground aiming for the bottom part of the darker grey face. At this point, there is a sickle-shaped flake up and right (very loose). Traverse 1m left at the finger rail and then straight up the steep face to the next set of rails. Move 1.5m left and follow the right side of the vague arête, then up the short slab to the narrow ledge. Stance at an old peg and ring.

2. 15m (25) Bring small and micro cams for this pitch. Place a high wire on the Bust Up pitch, and then move back down and left across the blunt arête. Follow the good holds just left of the arête until the wall blanks out. From the undercling, traverse ~2m left using two small uncut holds and then up to a large side-pull below a handrail. Head straight up past some large pockets to a rail below the roof (and garden above). Move slightly right to a hanging stance with a good foothold.

Pitch 3. 20m (22) Traverse right, under the Bust Up roof flake, and all the way to join the last few moves of Uber Huber. Abseil from fixed gear to the start of the route. If you want to top out, traverse right then join Bust Up.

This route breaks through the roof right of the caves found on the lower walk in. Climb through the roof right of the caves and up to a cubbyhole.  Powerful moves take you out and around the next roof. Continue to the top.

The route starts on the right-hand side of the main amphitheatre, in a crack system on the left-hand side of a pillar, above some trees. The line traverses the grey ramps above Apollo, and breaks through the roofs to the right of that route and below a prominent 'V'.

1. Scramble up to where the climbing begins steepening.

2. Climb the crack, moving left past a horrendous layback and make a hanging belay where a line of incut holds lead out left.

3. Traverse left. Move around some flakes and step down onto a block to continue traversing left until possible to move and back right to a blocky stance.

4. Climb up for 5m to where a finger-rail allows a traverse left into a corner. A tricky move up and left gains a rest, from where further traversing 15m left allows climbing up and back right to a stance.

5. Climb up on the right. Pull through a small bulge. Move up and traverse right to a stance.

6. Stand up on the block and pull up to the handrail. Rail left and pull through the roof on layback holds. at the next rail traverse left to a small stance.

7. Traverse left and move up to the roof. Climb out to the lip past two pegs, and continue to a stance.

8. Climb up on the right. Continue straight up and traverse right along the slab. The final two pitches are as for Apollo.

9. Climb into the chimney and continue up, exiting left. Walk across to the top of the ramp on the right.

10. Move up and traverse right onto the main face. Climb the jugs tending rightwards to the top.

Descent: scrambling and two rappels down the gully between the main and the right-hand turret leads directly back to the start of the traverse line.

A steep, sustained pitch up to the Bust Up ledge.

Start as for Black Widow but at the first rail continue straight up. Follow a slab to the right of the loose flake (slight run out) to a curved series of side pulls. Traverse ~1.5m left until able to pull up to the good rail. Step right and pull up to the next set of rails. Move left to the large undercling and blast straight up to the far right end of the Bust Up ledge. Consensus grading required

Wild at Heart, 25 Start: Hope Buttress has two big grey open books in the top half. We are interested in the right hand one. From the clump of pines walk up the left side of the valley between Hope and Charity Buttresses. Avoid the first broken band of rock and on the ledge above it head out left to the very long overhang. The route starts about 8m before the left-hand end of the overhang at a cairn.

1. [21] 15m

   Get off the ground at the big white dot on the rock. Meander up and left to stance at the lip of the overhang on the left at the cascade of creepers.

2. [20] 20m

   Go through the right-hand break in the overlaps above. Continue up to the big ledge system at the base of the beautiful, blunt orange arête with the yellow-white streak.

3. [25] 25m

   Start up the yellow-white streak on orange rock up to the roofs. Continue up directly on grey rock through the overlaps and then up the grey arête to a ledge.

4. [25] 40m

   Start at the back of the ledge then head out rightwards to gain the arête proper. Continue up the arête to the top (world-class).

This route is hard to beat Sustained, stylish moves in a superb position guarantee it a place at the top of the best there is at Lukenia. It climbs the orange wait of the obvious prow on the right of Window Buttress. Start 6m right of Dream Twister at a corner crack which is easily climbed for 3m to a small ledge on the right. Make the most of this - it is the last rest on the climb. Two small wires (#2 and #3 RP's), can be rigged here to protect the tricky move up to the first bolt. The route veers rightwards below the first bolt then up to the obvious bulging grey wall which is the crux of the route (bolt on right). Above the grey wall, the climb continues with difficulties to the third bolt. Steep, delicate climbing leads directly above to the top.

Climbs the wall to the right of Signing Off.  Start on the small ledge just to the left of the tree and follow the thin seam past a peg and a fixed wire to an abseil point on the tree above.  (Bolted now).

• Can be easily approached by rapping in from the top off the Signing Off  big tree.  Just brush of the holds on the way down as heavy rain brings down dust. Opened  trad style, then retro-bolted Feb 2010 by Gerald. Probably best to belay off “big ledge” level to right of Signing Off.  Scramble up large crack to left and place gear for belay or belay from ground and hope you don’t fall before first bolt…

• Find this from the top by following a vague path along the grassy slope till you get squeezed between a small rock face on the right and the tree with the embedded rock on your left.

This route takes one of the most direct lines at Blouberg, to the left of the WALL OF WHITE LIGHT. The start is 30m to the right of ANOTHER DAY IN HELL and about 10m left from the start of THE DELICATE SOUND OF THUNDER. A small beacon marks the start. The route takes a more or less direct line transecting ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. It tops out to the left of the huge, trapezoidal roof which is easily visible from the ground, virtually at the top of the face and just to the left of the start. It is basically an independent line, but shares the bivy stance with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. To keep the line direct it has two short sections which are common to that route.

1. 27m 20 Climb the clean line directly to the large ledge system above. Avoid the grassy corner on the right at 12m by staying on the face to the left of it.

2. 40m 22 Climb an obvious orange groove a few metres to the left of the start and climb through the overhang above. There is a peg visible at the overhang at 10m. Once through the overhang, continue up towards the right beneath a small roof to easier ground and then to a blocky stance topped by an overhang. Move right 2m and climb though the overlap to a rail (in common with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL. Continue up leftwards (crux). Move diagonally left a few metres (tricky) and then up to a point where you can traverse to a perch just left of a prominent right-facing corner beneath a large roof.

3. 50m 20 Move left 2m and up underneath a small overhang. Step right onto the ridge and continue up easier rock to a steep broken section at 40m. Pull through this on good jugs to a large ledge (bivvie common with ANOTHER DAY IN HELL).

4. 35m 21 ANOTHER DAY IN HELL takes the first diagonal break to the right starting at the end of the ledge. Continue past this for 3 - 4m and then take the obvious break heading for the scooped section of the wall 25m above. Fantastic climbing, protected by a bolt, brings you to a crux section, where an RP affords reasonable protection. Prior to this point there is a peg on the right. Move through this crux section (the good handhold on the left is now broken off), to a hanging stance off a big block. Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined.

5. 25m 24 Move right 5m to a point below two pegs 10m above. Place good pro in a rail and continue up to the pegs. A crux move past the pegs brings you to easier ground. Climb diagonally up left to a good stance.

6. 35m 23 Above is a shallow, right-curving corner with a peg visible but the route does not take this corner. Walk left about 5m to where the ledge ends, to a perch stance and climb the obvious orange corner directly above for 12m. When the corner peters out, do a delicate move right and then gingerly climb on to a large precarious-looking block. A tricky move (for short people) brings you into a leftleaning crack. Continue up this until it peters out after 5m, to a crouching position. Move up left onto lichen covered rock and then diagonally right to a good stance.

7. 35m 22 Some tricky moves up to the left bring you into a right-curving crack system (often has bird shit) topped by a roof. At the roof rail right (slippery) and then climb up to a small stance under a small roof.

8. 40m 25 Continue up the broken corner-crack to the roof above. A hard move up through the left brings you into an orange corner. Climb this to a rail underneath an overhang. Rail left to an amazing stance on the skyline. This pitch has three bolts.

9. 50m 17 A chossy start brings you onto lichen-covered rock. Continue up the obvious line more or less straight to the top. From here the scramble off is straightforward and fortunately not too bushy.

Notes:

1. The route is well-protected, apart from pitch 4, which is runout and may be protected using an RP.

2. No special gear is required, however a set of RP's will prove useful.

3. The corner of pitch 8 was originally aided.

4. Bivi sites: at the top of pitches 3 and 5 there are excellent bivvies. The opening party also bivvied uncomfortably at the top of pitch 6. The bivvi site at the top of pitch 3 has a drum and there is at least one mattress, chalk and a duvet jacket. Please leave these articles in situ for the benefit of future ascentionists.

Start as for 'Field of Opportunity' Just right of the arête is a short groove/mini corner. Climb up the thin crack, move past the blank section, and shift right at the top.

Just right of the main TMM pillar is a smooth wall undercut towards the right with a peg in the first rail.

1. A hard boulder problem gains the peg. Continue up the corner on the right of the flake to a ledge. Scramble up to the highest block under the roof on the right.

2. Combined tactics give access into the crack. Straight up to the next ledge.

3. Continue up the same crack to the top.

Climb the crack line 3m left of 'Horse Latitudes' .

Note:

Bolt replaced in 2005

A steep, sustained pitch, which mirrors Synapse. Access the left end of the Flakes Traverse (several route options)

Start as for Out to Lunch. At the first roof, rail about 3m right (120cm gear extensions useful) and pull through the break (shared with Cuckoos Nest). Continue up to the next rail, where Cuckoos heads up the crack to the left. At this point move right about 1m and up the steep face on side pulls, past a thin rail, to below an overlap. Traverse right on underclings and pull over the slight bulge to reach the vague corner, which ends at a finger rail. Traverse about 3m right to the Synapse anchor. Consensus grading needed, not technically too hard, but pretty pumpy!

The steep corner some 6m right of Matatu. Five fierce moves up thin crackline past bolt on right, leads to blank wall. Cruxy move right then easier step left below small roof. Over roof on good holds and to top.

Amazing line that starts from the regular route approach just before 3 step chimney. Pitch 1 - The big hard and scary chimney, bolted but big cams essential. Pitch 2 - Continue up the perfect hand crack / dihedral to slightly dodgy stacked towers of rock. Clip a bolt then go right under the roof to a stance at the end of the roof. The 3rd pitch is hard and has only 3 bolts. Start via a hard boulder problem to sustained laybacking and finger jams. Small feet. Pitch 4 - more of the same but easier to climb over a fig creeper and leftwards into an open chimney and then up the slab. Pitch 5 - Head right across the easy slab (bolts) and up to the obvious break in the roof. Hard moves into this and out the the right (bolts) lead to a belay on a ledge. Pitch 6 - Easy. Climb into the deep chimney and walk/shuffle along this to the rightwards ramp. Climb up this to the 1st bolted stance of the regular abseil route. A short scramble to the summit.

1st ascent was made ground up with aid and free climbing but the route is not fully free yet.

THE ROUTE IS NOT YET FULLY OPENED FOR OTHER PARTIES AND HAS THE BOLT HANGERS REMOVED TO PREVENT PEOPLE CLIMBING IT.

This was the first route opened at the "This and That" wall. It is three metres left of the scramble. Easy climbing on interesting holds leads to a single bolt below a contorted crux which is protected by smaller wires. Medium cams are required for the start.