Routes in Middle East for selected grade

1. 1 FB trad

2. Trad

3. 1 FB trad

Right of "Merlins Wand". Descent is by rappelling with double ropes. AAC article with topo.

Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches.

The North Face of Mashanig

#1 17, 55m Up the bushy chimney stepping right onto a ledge and cruxy slab to belay. #2 15, 35m Wandering. Zig zag between ledgelets following balancy line of least resistance trending left of ominous rooves above. #3. 21, 20m. Up the scrub, right of overhanging squeeze chimney to layback sequence (crux) then left to a semi-hanging belay. #4 15, 30m Traverse left and up to base of overhanging offwidth on R. #5, 18, 20m. Offwidth brings you to base of final headwall riven by steep flaring cracks. #6 13, Traverse left and up gully line above col. #7-12, Up to grade 15. South-facing corner of east ridge to summit. A squeeze chimney, a few tricky mantles and ledge climbing lead to victory.

#39. Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'.

Bolts in difficult sections, making the first 4 pitches sport climbing-like. Need to protect in others.

Fun overhanging moves on good holds.

Overhanging, missing 1st bolt

An amazing slab with lots of heels movement on it . Small ledges ends to the chain in the anchor

Sustained and pumpy climbing with hard to find feet takes you past a V-shaped flake then up and right past a series of cracks before heading right around the bulge.

a classic line . 3 stars

Starts on the grey slab left of 'Code of Ethics'. Very technical face climbing. Not yet in the most recent (2021) topos.

Strong moves between holes on the wall and a small traverse to left and the anchor .

Two easy bolts lead to a steep boulder problem, then continue up easier climbing to the anchor.

Crimpy.

First route on the left side of the cave, to the right from 6c/+. LHV

On the edge of the third cave , directly goes up to the chain anchor

Hard crux at the end.

A massive route that climbs the entire cliffs face. Climb up the vertical face encountering a mini crux on sloping edges. climb a few easier bolts to a ledge which you could bivi on. Rest up and when ready fire the last 40 feet of power-crimping on beautiful rock (real crux). If not for the ledge rest it would be an incredible mega-endurance route. This route is LONG so bring either an 80m rope or two 60m to get off. Because it is not very overhanging, cleaning on rappel is ok!

Shares start with "Red Pillar", then breaks right.

After the first few moves, do a physical traverse to the right and continue more or less straight up via the left side of the little roof. Possible link-up to the upper half of Diamond Mine.

1. 6 FB

2. 3 FB

3. 21 FB

4. 15 FB