Routes in Asia for selected grade

Corner crack 50 odd meters further up the trail from You or I, opposite the access to the Menhir plateau bouldering section.

Stem the corner or use the crack. Good finger to hand sized crack to protect.

Rack: Finger to hand sized pieces.

Anchor: Tree at the back or the crack

Natural anchor: Tree.

Further up along the trail after the Corner Crack, on the right.

Along the series of horizontal cracks, and over the mild roof.

A stack of boulders with cracks formed between the pile, opposite the Cobra boulder.

Hand and fist cracks.

Around the corner from Mongoose Cracks. Between the GRIT traverse and the Mongoose crack. A short thin finger crack below the tree growing out of the rock.

First Ascent, Flaky. easy to get to from any hotel. Tsushima far from touristy. Great rock, great climbs. for info email gavinolm@hotmail.com

The easiest way to get on top of the stack. Access this section by walking around the ME Boulder from the south of it. This section is essentially the upper part of the Inner Chimney route on the ME boulder.

Protect in the hand and finger crack with nuts or intermediate sized cams (finger and double finger sized). One or two placements.

Top Anchor: Cracks. Same as for the main chimney.

Immediately left of the Bare Necessities routes, on the featured wall with the trees above.

The line in middle of that wall with finger crack. The crack can take finger sized nuts or cams. Use one odd tricky chicken heads to further protect, as needed.

*Mess up that chicken head sling, and the fall is directly to the ground.

Immediately left of the Bare Necessities routes, on the featured wall with the trees above.

The line in middle of that wall with finger crack. The crack can take finger sized nuts or cams. Use one odd tricky chicken heads to further protect, as needed. Mess up that chicken head sling, and the fall is directly to the ground.

The same route could be used to set up about four-five ropes, with the trees as the anchors.

Gear: Smaller sized cam/s or nuts. Slings for the chicken heads. Not a very gear-intensive route. One cam or couple of small nuts should be more than adequate.

Anchors: Trees.

Exiting: Please, please leave TATs behind or learn to use ghost anchors to save the trees. Or climb out and top out through the vegetation.

Facing: West

FKA: April 24th, 2022. Sohan supported by Latha BM & Charan H.

Around the corner, facing Bangalore.

Amrit had soloed this line sometime back, and plans to put some bolts to be able to lead the line.

An intermediate graded line.

Crack & roof

To the right of the Vajra line, over the slab, protect the thin horizontal crack (finger or half finger sized cams or pink tri-cam), and over the roof, the slab and crack.

After the roof and the slab, connect to the Nehru’s Fault.

Rack: Half-finger sized pieces to hand-sized pieces.

Anchor: Same as that of Nehru’s Fault

Route courtesy: Sohan, June 2022

The offwidth on the Zen Garden boulder, facing north.

Starts in a chimney left of a tree. Through the tree to the offwidth.

This face of the Zen Garden boulder is covered by thick vegetation.

Rack: Slings for the tree, and #4, #5, #6 (optional) cams. Large hexes and small gear for the anchors.

Anchor: Boulders and cracks below the boulders

Natural Anchor: Boulders

FKA: Caleb Daniel and Amrit Appaden, Apr 2021

Up the south-east corner of the Zen Garden. Long easy looking slab.

Seam crack starting behind a tree. Protect using the seam and climb on the slab. The seam extends only half-way up. Use the trees and get creative with slinging the protrusions in the rock (if you need to).

Exit: Either down climb or walk around to the left or right and hike down

Facing: West

Rack: Micro-nuts (offsets), and full rack for the anchor.

Anchor: Boulder and cracks. Boulder is too large to sling. But a large hex, #3 cam, and a #1 cam (to the right) would suffice.

Natural Anchor: Boulder

FKA: Amrit Appaden

Through the series of two boulders in the chimney, and the tree.

Deceptively NOT a scrambling line, especially on the last boulder before the tree. Excellent route for a first lead, as the protection is excellent, especially at the crux on the second boulder, to the right.

Gear: Hand and fist sized pieces.

Anchor: Tree

FA: Gujju Razzak with Charan H and Sachith. June 11th, 2022.

Off-width to squeeze chimney

Solo it out. Or protect with wide gear. Or crashpads below

Anchor: Hip Belay

The stunning looking long chimney.

No protection possibilities until you get to the near top.

Place small finger sized pieces before topping out through the slot.

FKA: Amrit Appaden, supported by Sonakshi Mittal and Sohan. July 23rd, 2022.

Chimney/Offwidth

Immediately to the right (10 meters) of the Decepticon Boulder.

Single move Chimney crux till the deep fist jam, and then the route is quite done. Easy climbing to the tree for the top anchor.

Rack: One #3 cam, and cordage for the tree.

Top anchor: The tree

Natural Anchor: The tree

Documented by: Prakhaar Gaur & Sohan, Oct 31st, 2021

Chimney/Offwidth

Immediately to the right of the Bhandup ka Popeye. Easy, but exciting top-out, especially if you don’t have wide-gear.

Starts as a squeeze chimney, then converts to an offwidth at the top. Most common top-out is by going over the edge to the right of the crack.

Possible to protect with smaller wide-gear or a couple of fist-sized pieces, if ok with running it out in sections.

Rack: Wide-Gear (BD cam# 4, 5, & 6 ideal) or Fist-sized pieces (doubles) with run-out.

Top-Anchor: Hand- and Fist-sized gear, and long anchor (30-foot cordlette)

Natural Anchor: None

FKA: Sohan & Kiran Kallur, Oct 23, 2021

As you walk along the base to the south, a couple of slabs separated by a channel filled up with mud.

Both sets of the slabs could be protected with gear or from the trees atop them.

One crack that takes purple or green BD cam, and then the tree anchor.

FKA: Akhil Menon with support from Amit Manikoth. July 31st, 2022

Might have to dig out the soil to find a placement, but largely a soloable line.

From the center to the tree.

It is possible to also follow the line from the left to the shrub to the left, along the ledge, as a separate line. The shrub is not very solid to create a top-anchor out of.

FKA: Narayan Pai. July 31st, 2022.

Three lines here; one of which could be led on gear, and the other two are currently soloed.

The leadable line is to the far left, thin cracks take finger sized pieces (cams only). Or maybe pitons. The take-off crux here, and then easy line to the top.

The weakest (5.5) take-off section is to the right. And then follows a series of weaknesses diagonally going left. And top out towards the left horizontal crack.

The third line follows to the right, closer to the edge, and then exposed but easy climbing to the tree.

Three top-rope lines could be setup, with one from the tree in the channel, and two on either side about 8-10 feet below in the horizontal cracks.

FKA: Sohan. July 31st, 2022.

Route by Srikanth, Dini, Raju K.H., & Pai (1985).

From the end of the third pitch of the Meghaduta traverse, if you need to exit quickly, this is another option. Else, the pitches below are 35-meter long.

Unprotected traverse through the diagonal crack system, which is more of a ledge.

Finger and Hand Crack

The short crack on the trail between Crack Jack and Holy Crack. On the approach to the Red Sea plateau via the path left of Slab Crack Boulder, located just below the main plateau.

Or if approaching from the Red Sea Plateau, on the trail between Holy Crack and the Holy Crack, look for the path going downhill through a jumble of boulders, and through a narrow passageway between the boulders, the path winds down and switchbacks.

About 50 meters from the Holy Crack. The crack is facing west. Another quick one-piece route. A satisfying route for beginner crackclimbers.

Facing: West

Rack: Hand and finger pieces.

Anchor: Crack runs all the way to the top and behind.

Natural Anchor: None / Hip Belay

Honestly walking around would be a lot easier, but it's a fun little adventure to chimney straight up instead. Access chimney from the top of the white slab. There are big boulders wedged in space at intervals up the chimney which is what makes it comfortable to do without a rope.

Hollow plates on the slab. P2 (traverse) has very limited possibility to put any protection.

Face and crack

Between Sweet smell of Guano and High Noon, with stiff take off on the face and then the crack.

Offwidth/Hand Crack As you walk up from the Higher Noon Plateau towards You or I, the off-width crack on the stand-alone boulder to the right of the trail.

*Mildly tricky top out.

One piece protection with hand sized piece before the top-out.

Anchor: Possible to build a top anchor with one or two hand sized pieces.

Exit by scrambling over the boulders and a thorny shrub. Same exit as for the Gobright chimney.

Route and name courtesy, Aravind

As you walk up the trail past the High Noon and where the trail turns right, the west face of the Simian boulder is featured with a wide chimney and a neem tree at the base. The chimney hosts a Bee-hive for part of the year.

The scramble through pile of boulders at the base is also good way to access the Holy Crack section of the Red Sea Plateau.

Rack: Hand sized pieces and below.

Top anchor: Tree.

FKA: Dave Gates by the way of soloing it out in his approach shoes! June 22,2022

5.6. 10 meters. Hands, chimney, fingers.

50 meters to the right the High Noon boulder (south-east), the most prominent crack system with a tree at the top, and a chimney at the base.

Couple of options to get into the crack, either through the Chimney at the base, right of the chimney (over an easy boulder), or from the left over a Rhino shaped feature with a crack above it.

Suggested to start left. The direct chimney or the right start reduce the grade to 5.4/5.

Bouldery start from the left, finger sized to small placements, then cut right, into the chimney, and through the hand crack, to the slab with finger crack, and past the tree. Suggested traverse right under the boulder to create the anchor. The crack at this point is more stable for top anchor.

Exciting little line, with moments while traversing right, and then all the way to the slab. Hard to believe that this little classic was undocumented or not shared up until March of 2021!

Facing: west

Rack: Up to fist sized pieces. Save the fist sized cam for the anchor.

Anchor: Cracks under the boulder at the top out.

Natural Anchor: Boulder

Name provided by Vikram Murthy

Second part of Stauntons Cafe.

Horizontal cracks and slab - The kind of line one usually encounters when going ground up on long routes.

Traversing in nature. Only ground-up climbing, no top-rope possibility. Bring up the second and walk off.

Start immediately to the left of B-Cheek. From behind the Rhino’s horn likefeature. Get atop the horn, protect the horizontal crack, and angle left. Thin jagged crack below the tree takes small offset nuts Traverse left from the crack along the slabby face under the tree to the horizontal crack on the adjacent boulder.

Facing: North-west

Rack: Finger sized pieces and small nuts. Fist sized and intermediate sizes for anchor under the boulder above thetree.

Anchor: Cracks under the boulder.

Natural Anchor: Theboulder.

Route courtesy - Sohan

Start on the other side of the zawn by stretching across. Follow crack system seaward to cliff face and up.

Slab and cracks 30-feet to the north of You or I boulder.

Slab with cracks to protect. Old school Bangalore Slab climbing. There is one more easy line, immediately to the left, and around the corner. About 10 feet to the left.

Facing: South

Rack: Mid sized cams and nuts

Anchor: None

North ridge

South-east ridge

North-west face

East ridge

The east facing line is one of the easiest chimneys encountered so far around Yedumadu, and easy to protect. The left most yellow line in the image below.

The first 15-feet is back-and-foot wide, then a narrow ledge to stand up on, and place the #6 cam, that protects the transition to the next wide ledge. Bump the cam up and run out the last eight-nine feet to the top out through the squeeze chimney section.

Facing: West

Rack: One #6 Cam to protect the line, and a couple of #3/#4 cams for the anchor. Anchor: Cracks above

Natural Anchor: Boulder or the tree behind it, 30-foot long cordage.

FKA: Sohan supported by Kyra (Mar 2021)

Vinayaka set is in fact three high boulders stacked up next to each other and forms two chimneys between them. With multiple lines for both lead and top ropes. Located about 30-feet south-west of the Redeemer rock. Or about 40 feet east of the Vedauwoo Boulder.

Multiple ways to access.

1. Via the Cobra section of the Yedumadu South Trail, the top of the boulders comes up to the right just before you reach the Redeemer rock.

2. Or walk east from You or I, along the south-facing boulders, for about 100 meters.

West rib

Center of the west face

Left edge of the north face

East ridge

East ridge

South ridge

East face of the south ridge

From Dvujnoj pass

North-east rib

This climb is found on a mushroom boulder 30m before the rook area off to the right.

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