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Ascents in Arapiles as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 900 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
Trad
18 Cassandra Mixed trad 40m, 5 Arapiles Good Mon 29th Sep 2014
Good climbing but greasy rock.

 
20 Indecisivity Mixed trad 15m, 5 Arapiles Good Mon 18th Jan 2016
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?

 
25 Mixed Metaphor Mixed trad 25m, 5 Arapiles Good Wed 8th Oct 2014
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.

 
26 Fitzroy Street Mixed trad 12m, 4 Arapiles Don't Bother Tue 7th Oct 2014
The 21 version

 
23 Vogon Destructor Fleet - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 20m, 4 Arapiles Good Mon 2nd Nov 2015
Three tricky sections.

 
22 Hyperspace Bypass - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 20m, 4 Arapiles Good Mon 2nd Nov 2015
Thin bit in the first half then R and L up the wall

 
24 Mixed Blessing Mixed trad 50m, 4 Arapiles Average Tue 30th Sep 2014
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.

 
25 Station to Station - with Gareth Llewellin Mixed trad 22m, 4 Arapiles Very Good Sat 24th Oct 2015
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.

 
22 Cecilia Mixed trad 25m, 4 Arapiles Good Wed 4th Nov 2015
26 Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - with Kieran Lawton Mixed trad 30m, 4 Arapiles Very Good Thu 12th Nov 2015
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.

 
24 Free Will - with Geordie Webb Mixed trad 20m, 4 Arapiles Very Good Sun 25th Dec 2016
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.

 
25 Debutantes and Centipedes Mixed trad 15m, 3 Arapiles Very Good Mon 29th Sep 2014
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.

 
26 25 Gay Olympics Mixed trad 20m, 3 Arapiles Average Tue 30th Sep 2014
Thin and very hard.

 
26 Golden Gaytime Mixed trad 30m, 3 Arapiles Good Tue 30th Sep 2014
Good but not two stars. One or no stars

 
22 Spasticus Autisticus (Spasticus Autisticus (Not Autisticus Spasticus)) Mixed trad 17m, 3 Arapiles Average Wed 8th Oct 2014
I find this quite hard, and not that much fun. Others seem to like it.

 
27 Body Recession - with Kate Dooley Mixed trad 15m, 3 Arapiles Very Good Thu 30th Oct 2014
Two days

 
23 Tough Titties Mixed trad 20m, 3 Arapiles Good Thu 22nd Oct 2015
Thin and hard start

 
25 Feral Fee-box Mixed trad 12m, 3 Arapiles Average Thu 5th Nov 2015
20 Goodbye To All That - with kieran lawton Mixed trad 35m, 3 Arapiles Very Good Wed 11th Nov 2015
A bouldery start, then it's a bit uninspiring crossing Scorpion, but the top bit is excellent

 
18 Great Sleeping Weather - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 3 Arapiles Good Sat 26th Mar 2016
Good fun, three interesting sections

 
24 Petrol Solutions Mixed trad 30m, 3 Arapiles Good Thu 5th Nov 2015
Good climbing, bolts are probably suspect and there's a silly #4RP behind a loose looking flake at the top. At the moment, a good one to toprope off the chains.

 
23 Purple Denotes Bruising Mixed trad 10m, 3 Arapiles Average Wed 8th Oct 2014
This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.

 
26 Wackford Squeers Mixed trad 30m, 3 Arapiles Average Wed 29th Apr 2015
The slopey traverse in is crap, the DS much better.

 
23 24 Jilted Mixed trad 15m, 3 Arapiles Very Good Wed 4th Nov 2015
Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.

 
23 Lunatic Mixed trad 25m, 3 Arapiles Classic Sat 14th Nov 2015
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.

 
26 Industrial Muscle - with ingvar Mixed trad 30m, 3 Arapiles Very Good Tue 28th Apr 2015
Two star 23 - awesome - to a ledge and then dyno for a thread off slopes.

 
23 Fault Line Direct Mixed trad 25m, 3 Arapiles Good Fri 1st May 2015
Add 10 grades if you're short, and 100 if you're Wendy's size

 
24 Spring Offensive - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 20m, 3 Arapiles Classic Fri 10th Oct 2014
Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.

 
25 Henry Bolte Mixed trad 30m, 3 Arapiles Good Wed 29th Apr 2015
I've never really liked the bottom half, but the top is good if you go direct.

 
26 Hot Finger Mixed trad 10m, 3 Arapiles Average Thu 5th Nov 2015
More like 24?

 
24 Allez Mixed trad 25m, 3 Arapiles Very Good Tue 10th Nov 2015
A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.

 
25 Spasm in a Chasm - with Gordon Poultney Mixed trad 25m, 3 Arapiles Classic Thu 12th Nov 2015
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.

 
26 Heimweh Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Mon 29th Sep 2014
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.

 
19 21 Blind Profit - with Wendy Mixed trad 30m, 2 Arapiles Average Tue 30th Sep 2014
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.

 
20 Brit Milah Mixed trad 12m, 2 Arapiles Average Tue 30th Sep 2014
Okay but not worth a star.

 
24 Look Sharp Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Tue 30th Sep 2014
OK, a hard crank then insecure.

 
28 Slime Time - with Ingvar Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Tue 7th Oct 2014
Maybe 3 days? Quite good, and not particularly slimy. One slippery hold. Reachy though - there's a move at the start that is about 23 for me and looks 32 for Dave Jones.

 
22 Fingersmith Mixed trad 16m, 2 Arapiles Average Wed 8th Oct 2014
23 Throw Me No Beers Mixed trad 12m, 2 Arapiles Average Fri 10th Oct 2014
Bolts probably need replacing now

 
18 Dude Boobs - with Claudio Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Average Fri 10th Oct 2014
Good position, climbing is average

 
17 Discord Direct Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Sat 11th Oct 2014
20 Toad in the Hole Mixed trad 12m, 2 Arapiles Average Thu 30th Oct 2014
super greasy

 
26 Wackford Squeers Direct Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Mega Classic Wed 29th Apr 2015
I really like this one. Best route on the wall (that I can do!)

 
18 Interlude - with Abby Watkins Mixed trad 35m, 2 Arapiles Crap Sun 11th Oct 2015
The climbing is quite good but there are major loose blocks on this that mean I would not do this route again or recommend it to others.

 
25 Cliff Richards - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Average Fri 16th Oct 2015
20 Brit Milah Mixed trad 12m, 2 Arapiles Average Thu 22nd Oct 2015
20 Antique Road Show - with estherenita Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Thu 22nd Oct 2015
Top section is great, bottom crux is not that much fun - but maybe I could just climb it better!

 
24 Cumelittle Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Don't Bother Thu 5th Nov 2015
Not sure why people bother with this. If you're going to do one 24 at Arapiles, make sure it's not this one. Sonic Boom is good! Do Sonic Boom instead! Go for a walk! Read an improving book! Phone your Mother!

 
23 Riot or Wrong Mixed trad 9m, 2 Arapiles Good Thu 5th Nov 2015
Tried to lead it when the bolt was gone - fiddly gear. Got pumped and tr'd it.

 
18 Eurydice Mixed trad 65m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Tue 10th Nov 2015
A bit greasy but good.

 
17 Swinging Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Wed 11th Nov 2015
Seem to do it differently every time. Always engaging

 
19 Touch-Type Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Average Tue 17th Nov 2015
19 Renunciation Mixed trad 30m, 2 Arapiles Average Tue 17th Nov 2015
18 Brown Thumb - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Sat 12th Dec 2015
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.

 
17 Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Average Sat 26th Mar 2016
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.

 
15 I am a Banana Expert - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Good Sat 26th Mar 2016
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.

 
22 Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 10m, 2 Arapiles Average Sat 9th Apr 2016
24 23 Walking Simulator Mixed trad 12m, 2 Arapiles Good Wed 18th May 2016
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.

 
23 Got It! - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 27m, 2 Arapiles Average Wed 29th Apr 2015
24 The Real Thing Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Wed 4th Nov 2015
23 Myself - with adam demmert Mixed trad 10m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Mon 30th Nov 2015
Nice climbing with all the hard moves in the top third. Easier than BM, might be 22?

 
24 23 Despatched - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 40m, 2 Arapiles Mega Classic Sat 24th Oct 2015
24 If you ask me! I kicked out the RP above the roof and lost it - slumped onto a #1 RP. Went back and did it later. One of the best 24's at the mount. Don't bother with the second pitch, it's rubbish.

 
26 Denim - with Brendan Emmerson Mixed trad 45m, 2 Arapiles Good Tue 10th Nov 2015
TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.

I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.???

 
24 Astral Plane Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Mon 29th Sep 2014
Good but not two stars as I recall.

 
22 Easy Does It Mixed trad 12m, 2 Arapiles Good Wed 8th Oct 2014
Tricky and pumpy at the top

 
23 Beside Myself Mixed trad 30m, 2 Arapiles Good Wed 8th Oct 2014
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.

 
23 A Plaything For the Missus Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Fri 10th Oct 2014
Bolts need replacing

 
25 Small Wall Mixed trad 8m, 2 Arapiles Good Tue 14th Oct 2014
Quite good, a wild solo.

 
21 The British Beat Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Don't Bother Wed 23rd Sep 2015
Horrible slick slab. Glad I did it when I was too young to know better and don't have to do it again.

 
21 Great Working Dog Stories - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 40m, 2 Arapiles Good Thu 22nd Oct 2015
Second pitch is quite cryptic! Had me stumped for quite a while.

 
21 19 Pestilence Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Average Wed 4th Nov 2015
I did this before the bolts went in, thinking it was The Garden's Full of Furniture - the upper section probably is. Start is reachy and hard for 19 unless you come in from Scourge

 
25 Stage Right Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Average Wed 4th Nov 2015
23 Pulpy Kidney - with Rob Oliver Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Average Thu 5th Nov 2015
Has new bolts, yay.

 
25 Trojan Mixed trad 86m, 2 Arapiles Classic Thu 5th Nov 2015
Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.

 
25 The Low Down - with Ken Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Wed 11th Nov 2015
20 21 Aussie Logic - with Cate Webb Mixed trad 23m, 2 Arapiles Good Thu 12th Nov 2015
Distinctly easier if you are tall. Nice climbing. I wander R of the upper bolt too. Needs brackets.

 
22 Drivetime Mixed trad 8m, 2 Arapiles Good Fri 13th Nov 2015
23 Fever Pitch Mixed trad 30m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Sat 14th Nov 2015
22 21 Yesterday's Rooster Mixed trad 22m, 2 Arapiles Good Sat 14th Nov 2015
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22

 
22 21 Mr Buffalo Mixed trad 25m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Tue 17th Nov 2015
Very technical, spent most of the time thinking! Very nice rock, take small cams. Might be a good link from Honeycomb.

 
23 Nuns Love It - with Andrew Clark Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Good Mon 2nd Sep 2013
Good climbing, funky moves but the bolts are in the strangest places and seem like they would be hard to clip.

 
24 Use Me and Abuse Me Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Average Wed 8th Oct 2014
The bolts flex alarmingly

 
26 The Fortress - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 18m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Wed 29th Apr 2015
A bit slimy now, but I did it with three dynos, so that's always fun.

 
25 Bienenstich (Bienerstisch) - with Kieran Lawton, Gareth Llewellin Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Thu 22nd Oct 2015
Great climbing, technical crux at start. After the bolts I remember small opposed wires, small cam, #3RP, medium cam (red or yellow camalot). Looks like 32!

 
24 Deeply Techo - with Enga Lokey Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Good Thu 5th Nov 2015
After the alcove I stopped at every move looking for gear as I wasn't convinced about the nest below.. I fell off slapping the jug at the top and went most of the length of the route. The gear was fine!

 
27 Genug - with Gordon Poultney Mixed trad 15m, 2 Arapiles Good Sat 14th Nov 2015
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling

 
23 Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 35m, 2 Arapiles Good Thu 9th Jun 2016
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.

 
23 Roadside Attraction Direct Start - with Marty Mixed trad 20m, 1 Arapiles Don't Bother Tue 31st Dec 1991
21 20 Pilot Error Mixed trad 12m, 1 Arapiles Good Fri 26th Sep 2014
Bolt is not good right now!

 
21 Across the Andes by Frog Mixed trad 20m, 1 Arapiles Average Mon 29th Sep 2014
Don't really remember this but it looks a little dangerous.

 
24 Entangled Mixed trad 25m, 1 Arapiles Good Mon 29th Sep 2014
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.

 
25 Evading Infra-Red Mixed trad 35m, 1 Arapiles Don't Bother Tue 30th Sep 2014
Very thin hard start. Worthless.

 
23 Sagittarian Mixed trad 12m, 1 Arapiles Average Tue 30th Sep 2014
Start is pretty horrible, but finish past the bolt is nice.

 
22 A New Toy Mixed trad 15m, 1 Arapiles Average Tue 30th Sep 2014
26 Letting Go Mixed trad 15m, 1 Arapiles Tue 7th Oct 2014
22 Blasphemy Mixed trad 15m, 1 Arapiles Good Tue 7th Oct 2014
I like this one.

 
21 The Bolt - with Edwin Mixed trad 13m, 1 Arapiles Average Tue 7th Oct 2014
24 Hunger - with Stuart Williams Mixed trad 20m, 1 Arapiles Average Wed 8th Oct 2014
I thought it was awful - harsh rock and ugly climbing - but I see Steve's post saying it was great. May be worth revisiting. Anchor was crap 20 years ago.

 
21 Feel It Closing In Mixed trad 12m, 1 Arapiles Good Wed 8th Oct 2014
Really quite tricky

 
21 Wrap-around Sunglasses Mixed trad 15m, 1 Arapiles Don't Bother Wed 8th Oct 2014

Showing 1 - 100 out of 900 ascents.

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