Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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30 | ||||||||
30 | ★★ Living With a Hernia | 10m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Oct 2014 | |||
10 days, two knee bars and two heel-toes. Mostly layaways and underclings.
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29 | ||||||||
27 29 | ★★ Jet Lag | 18m, 8 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.
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29 | ★★★ Masada - with Rob McLeod | 28m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
I really like this one. Great line, great climbing, great history. 4 days.
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28 | ||||||||
28 | ★ Slime Time - with Ingvar | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Maybe 3 days? Quite good, and not particularly slimy. One slippery hold. Reachy though - there's a move at the start that is about 23 for me and looks 32 for Dave Jones.
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28 | ★★★ India - with Kate Dooley | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Nov 2015 | |||
TR'd it one day and led it placing the gear the next - it had 2 fixed wires so gear wasn't that hard to place. The bit up to the crux - about 24 - is really insecure and great climbing. The crux is interesting but the dyno for a gravelly fingerlock is not heaps of fun if you blow it. The top bit is easy (Gordy fell off it te he). Not a three star route though.
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29 28 | ★★★ Cobwebs | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...
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27 | ||||||||
27 | ★★★ Exodus 2.5 | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Oct 2014 | |||
Really great, just lacking a good finish really. Finishing up Copyright is probably a better route all round.
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27 | ★★ Body Recession - with Kate Dooley | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Oct 2014 | |||
Two days
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27 | ★ Genug - with Gordon Poultney | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling
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26 R | ||||||||
26 | ★ Heimweh | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.
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26 | ||||||||
26 | ★★ Hit the Deck | 18m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Interesting and varied, good but not great.
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26 | ★★ Letting Go | 15m, 1 | Arapiles | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | ||||
26 | Fitzroy Street | 12m, 4 | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
The 21 version
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26 | ★★ Exodus lI | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Oct 2014 | |||
I really like this one! Great underclinging with not much for your feet. Saw Dave solo it and I think I was more nervous than him.
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers Direct | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 29th Apr 2015 | |||
I really like this one. Best route on the wall (that I can do!)
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26 | ★★ Crystal Vision - with Paul Hoskins | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st May 2015 | |||
Paul onsighted this, of course.
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25 | ★★ Vanya Going Underground | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 22nd Oct 2015 | |||
Really, really good but really, really hard.
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26 | ★ Clap Hands | 15m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
The bottom bit is quite good. Second shot.
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26 | ★★★ Ergonomics | 20m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
Just as well Dave got to this first. I was going to do it on the RP placements. Wouldn't have been so popular!
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26 | ★★★ Yesterday | 27m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
I think this is borderline 27. I'm always so impressed when people onsight this as it's hard, sustained and technical till close to the end.
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26 | Tribulation | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | |||
Not that great
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26 | ★★★ Denim - with Brendan Emmerson | 45m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 10th Nov 2015 | |||
TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.
I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.??? |
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26 | ★ Fists of Fury - with Dave J | 20m | Arapiles | Average | Mon 27th Oct 2014 | |||
26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | Average | Wed 29th Apr 2015 | |||
The slopey traverse in is crap, the DS much better.
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26 | ★★ Industrial Muscle - with ingvar | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Apr 2015 | |||
Two star 23 - awesome - to a ledge and then dyno for a thread off slopes.
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26 | ★★ The Fortress - with Paul Hoskins | 18m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Apr 2015 | |||
A bit slimy now, but I did it with three dynos, so that's always fun.
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26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille - with gordon poultney | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Very cool past the pillar.. I wish the chip was bigger! Nearly fell off every move after the crux to the top. Was too pumped to put the wire in so it was pretty exciting!
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26 | Hot Finger | 10m, 3 | Arapiles | Average | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
More like 24?
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26 | ★★ Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - with Kieran Lawton | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Nov 2015 | |||
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.
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V5 | ||||||||
V5 | ★★ Outrageous Coincidences | Arapiles | Mon 27th Oct 2014 | |||||
25 | ||||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.
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26 25 | ★ Gay Olympics | 20m, 3 | Arapiles | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Thin and very hard.
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26 | ★★ Golden Gaytime | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars. One or no stars
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24 25 | ★ Alone in the Dead Zone | 15m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | |||
Good actually, but too thin for me these days.
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25 | Temporary Imbalance - with Paul Hoskins | 20m | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Sun 11th Oct 2015 | |||
Too short.
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25 | ★★ Blockade - with Gordon Poultney | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Oct 2015 | |||
Great climbing and great rock once you stop traversing right and left and actually go up.
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25 | ★ Cliff Richards - with Paul Hoskins | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Average | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | |||
25 | Cuddly Fat | 20m | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Crap with a chipped hold.
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25 | ★ Feral Fee-box | 12m, 3 | Arapiles | Average | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★ Cumelittle | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
Not sure why people bother with this. If you're going to do one 24 at Arapiles, make sure it's not this one. Sonic Boom is good! Do Sonic Boom instead! Go for a walk! Read an improving book! Phone your Mother!
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25 R | ||||||||
25 | ★ Imagination LHF | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
I think Chrispy led this by accident - it's a very bold lead, not sure if the gear would keep you off the ground. Impressive!
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25 | ||||||||
25 | ★★ The Undertaker | 18m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
Oh so greasy! I find this super hard, the climbing's good but so slick. At least you're unlikely to hurt your fingers...
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25 | More Moves | 10m | Arapiles | Average | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Looks good but doesn't really come together
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25 | ★★ Girls on Bikes - with julian saunders | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Top crux is very reachy. Climbing is good, but not awesome.
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25 X | ||||||||
24 | ★★ Breezin' - with dave jones | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
A really good wire at half height, then that's it.
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25 | ||||||||
25 | ★★ Placements - with estherenita, Wendy Eden | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
This route is excellent! Really interesting and hard for.. quite long enough.
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25 | ★ Mixed Metaphor | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.
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25 X | ||||||||
25 | Small Wall | 8m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | |||
Quite good, a wild solo.
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25 | ||||||||
25 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane Direct Finish | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | |||
Good, but the original doesn't need improving. A thin technical move.
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25 | ★★ Non-Stop | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
25 | Stage Right | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Average | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.
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25 | ★★ The Low Down - with Ken | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
25 | ★ Sonic Boom | 12m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
Remarkably good!
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25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - with Paul Hoskins | 18m, 5 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.
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25 | ★ The Flashing Blade | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 29th Apr 2015 | |||
I've never really liked the bottom half, but the top is good if you go direct.
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25 | Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting - with Martin Tatton | 15m | Arapiles | Average | Wed 29th Apr 2015 | |||
Technical
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25 | ★★ Bienenstich (Bienerstisch) - with Kieran Lawton, Gareth Llewellin | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2015 | |||
Great climbing, technical crux at start. After the bolts I remember small opposed wires, small cam, #3RP, medium cam (red or yellow camalot). Looks like 32!
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station - with Gareth Llewellin | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | |||
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.
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25 | ★★ No Exit | 65m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Backed off second pitch - I'll try taking a big cam for the pocket. Seemed committing pulling over the bulge.
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25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm - with Gordon Poultney | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Nov 2015 | |||
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.
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24 | ||||||||
24 | I Dunno Direct Start | 10m | Arapiles | Average | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Just one move. If you can do it, it's a great route. If you can't, it's rubbish.
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24 | ★ Entangled | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Remarkably worthwhile as a second pitch to Astral Plane. Thin crux past old bolt.
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25 | Evading Infra-Red | 35m, 1 | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Very thin hard start. Worthless.
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24 | ★ Look Sharp | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
OK, a hard crank then insecure.
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24 | ★★ Hunger - with Stuart Williams | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | Average | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
I thought it was awful - harsh rock and ugly climbing - but I see Steve's post saying it was great. May be worth revisiting. Anchor was crap 20 years ago.
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24 R | ||||||||
24 24 R | Private Assassin - with Esther | 10m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
I fell off the last move in light rain. Fortunately the cam held or I would have been mush.
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24 | ||||||||
24 | ★ Abbie Normal | 24m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 11th Oct 2014 | |||
24 | ★★ Horrorscope | 16m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | |||
I think it's good. It's not long but the climbing is interesting.
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24 | Llareggub Variant | 15m | Arapiles | Average | Thu 30th Oct 2014 | |||
24 | ★ The Hunchback of Natimuk | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 30th Oct 2014 | |||
Good. Nathan Hoette eliminated the knee bars at about 28.
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24 | Angles Up - with Paul Hoskins | 20m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | |||
24 | ★ Epic Demic | 22m | Arapiles | Average | Fri 16th Oct 2015 | |||
A bit brittle and crimpy.
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24 | Bonsai Banzai - with Martin Tatton | 13m | Arapiles | Average | Mon 19th Oct 2015 | |||
Looks good but not worth the bush bash
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24 | ★ Revolution Rock Low Start | Arapiles | Average | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
24 | ★ Kor | 10m | Arapiles | Average | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
Not bad on TR, really hard to place the gear on lead. Greasy.
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24 | ★ Dynamic | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★★ Big Brother Direct Finish | 20m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★★ Big Brother Variant Finish | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★ Pattern Juggler Direct Start | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
25 | ★ Colour Scheme | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | |||
Not quite as good as it looks sadly. Still good, but it looks like it's going to be great.
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24 | ★ The Real Thing | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★★ Dreadlots | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★★ Cayenne | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Sep 2014 | |||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars as I recall.
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24 | ★ It'll Never Fly - with Edwin | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Sep 1991 | |||
Good fun but HAGF is the better route if you have the juice.
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24 | ★ Indoctrination | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Oct 2014 | |||
Needs rebolting. The start is crimpy and not that great. It's a better route to do the start of Claw and join the traverse at about 4m. Gear is not totally bomber with a shallow cam pretty much all between you and the ground.
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24 | ★ Out of the Blue - with Martin Tatton | 70m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | |||
The roof is good climbing, the crux is mantling onto the slab over the lip! Worth a star.
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23 24 | ★★ Fault Line - with Paul Hoskins | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 1st May 2015 | |||
It was a long time ago, but seemed more like 23
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24 | ★ Deep Throat - with Wayne Webb | 15m | Arapiles | Average | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
A bit thin on gear
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23 24 | ★★ Jilted | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.
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24 | Nurse, Increase the Sedatives | 10m, 1 | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | |||
25 | ★★ Strolling Right Hand Variant | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | |||
This one's quite good. Placements is better though.
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24 R | ||||||||
21 |
★ Mental Debris
- with
Gareth Llewellin, Shaggy
1
21
lead by
me
2
3
| 40m, 1 | Arapiles | Average | Thu 12th Nov 2015 | |||
Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!
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24 | ||||||||
24 | ★ Les Ordures Blanches - with Wendy Eden | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 13th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | ★ Strange Tenants - with Paul Hoskins | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 15th Nov 2015 | |||
24 | Mixed Blessing | 50m, 4 | Arapiles | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.
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24 R | ||||||||
24 | ★ Petro-Fy | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Yes would be a very dangerous lead.
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24 | ||||||||
24 | ★★ The Philosopher | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Chad broke his ankles going for it on this one. Don't go for it unless you know your gear is good.
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