Ascents in Far North having Beta

Drama Queen V7 (Chattanooga TN) one session to figure out crux beta

Drama Queen V7 (Chattanooga TN) 1st try of the day

Almost flashed this! Past the crux and bumped to a shit part on the undercut and my hand slipped.

pretty sweet unlocked the sloppy traverse at the end

i dont think its a v7

A nice sandbag, and my anti-style. Recipe for a shut down, but I’m hooked. Must be pretty damn good

3 laps, some good links and got all the beta. Feels hard

Really good!

Still feels harder than India!

Crux section must have been beamed in from the blueies. very fine crimp and pocket pulling. The onsight burn was very shortlived but that's show business.

Unexpectedly climbed all the hard stuff to the trad section but didn’t bring any gear, so had to whip. Have done the trad part numerous times before.

Not that great

This route is really, really good - I'm staggered more people haven't tried it. Eventually figured everything out, although took a few goes to actually figure out where the holds were.

Went left at the 4th bolt into AHLBB because we couldn't see any holds at all straight up. Still 26 though, even doing it that way (the move up and left are both hard anyway) ... would love to hear from Gordy if he was able to solve it going straight up from the scoop-of-no-progress just after the 4th bolt.

Really cool, technical route. 2nd day, 6 shots total. Nearly blew it up high in the "easy" section 4 separate times. Very marginal ascent but I'll take it

hard ?!

Too short.

Great climbing and great rock once you stop traversing right and left and actually go up.

How hard is this really? Utterly desperate.

Good route apart from the crux! The rest is about 22.

Top rope. Wowser!

FFA. Get on it.

Got it first go. Pisser

The hardest 24 at Araps according to HB. Set up a toprope and did the move. Hopefully I get a chance this trip. A great line on awesome rock.

I hope this stays as the most sandbagged 24 at Araps instead of being upgraded. probably harder than most 25s around and some of the 26s. Went first lead attempt without inspecting the gear, however this could have been a good idea. Got to the crux where I was sure a blue hex would slot in but found it to be too big for any of the gear I brought with me. I ended up stacking a red and blue hex which seemed to not be going anywhere, committed to the crux move and sent. stoked! A bum rock classic!

Finger went pop! Retreated and called it a day.

Solved all beta 2nd tie in and then climbed crux clean from bolt through to top jugs.

A cheeky trad 25(?) to close the year out. 2 tie ins for beta, 3 to send (a low percentage body wiggle crux).

Feel like there isn’t really a difference in difficulty here with pre placed gear… and cleaning the roof between attempts would be a pain in the arse. Happy to walk away with a pink point and a giant crack gobie as a prize.

Very cool roof trench with minimal off widthing!

hard roof to finish

seconded Kim 1979

Wandery but good.Took me two days, that was when I realised I wasn't going to do all the Moorhead '81 routes in a year!

A bit brittle and crimpy.

This route looks amazing, but I wasn't that taken with it. The bottom's a bit loose feeling and the top's awkward (meaning I couldn't do it very well).

Looks good but not worth the bush bash

Finger shredding, but worth it for the pockets. One nails move. Worth a new bolt, the old dangerous one is bashed in

Not quite as good as it looks sadly. Still good, but it looks like it's going to be great.

This route was kinda dissapointing. It's only hard in 2 places and has some grotty, iffy rock. Barely a 1 star route. The start would be really dangerous on lead - if you fell off the crux, you are going to crater into the white slabby corner or the ground. If you get through the crux, there's still no gear anyway. The top bit that the guide says is run out is at least safe.

So glad to be on the blunt end of the rope ... I think there were maybe 3 really good pieces in the whole route. there were a surprising number of other not quite so good pieces but plenty of committing bits and Alan didn't come off to test drive them. And this was first done pre cams and sticky rubber! A bloody out there lead for 24, sustained with multiple cruxes.

bring your feet and some GRRRR

Very tricky and committing traverse crimping on slick pebbles.

I rapped in to inspect the semi-rotten carrot and found it 'just' ok. Is that a flash? Meh. Be careful.

Probably 24 R realistically.

Fuck this thing is good. Technical, sustained, Ballancy, just the right amount of holds and awesome position. With a bomber peice on the small middle pocket (0.5 alien??) it doesn't seem too unreasonably dangerous. Only just slipped off 4m in mantling the first roof then managed to get the top rope send on the second try.

ground up attempt, got tunnel vision at the roof after being all the slab scariness, missed a hold and blew it. doh!! pulled straight back on and finished it. pretty good climbing with just enough gear. pink tri-cam was super useful.

Useful climb for shaving off calloused finger tips

Brutal dual pockets. Decided to save the fingers.

2 belayers, BIG swinging whips and bash-in carrots. Lots of fun. Unfortunately sat after the crux because the route was 60% moss and I was pumped and scared

Nice. Epiced a bit cleaning it getting a rope stuck in a crack...