Ascents of Beelzebub

In the "they don't make 'em like this anymore" category.

Awkward old school climbing. ie offwidth corner crack.

with Susy

About 25 years since I've been on it. Didn't do the DS this time.

Surprisingly good

The starting traverse is easy, though thought must be given to rope drag and how to protect your second. (Double ropes really help!) Slightly committing moves up the layback crack, and then a thrutchy but interesting crux start to the wide crack above. A BD #4 cam will fit the crack in the vicinity of the terrible bolt, but there's also small nut protection available in a crack to the left of the bolt.

Interesting route. I climbed the face past the bolt. I think I would crack climb to the right on lead.