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Routes as trad in D Minor Pinnacle

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
22 R Aardvark Original Start

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Chris George, 1974

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

Trad 18m
18 Aardvark

Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975

Trad 18m
28 Cadenza Direct

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

FA: Alec Campbell, 1966

FFA: Dave Jones & Rich Heap, 1996

Trad 18m
20 Cadenza

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975

Trad 20m
24 The Philosopher

Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Trad 18m
25 The Philosopher Direct
Mixed trad 18m, 1
27 Les Memoires d'un Ane

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Mixed trad 18m, 3
14 Quaver

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

Mixed trad 30m, 1
20 Semi-Quaver

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.

  1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into Quaver. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of D Minor.

  2. 10m (20) Up arete left of D Minor - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994

Mixed trad 30m, 2, 3
15 X Minuet

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964

Trad 33m
14 D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

Trad 35m, 2
17 Crescendo

Essentially the right arete of D Minor. Start 2m R of D Minor. Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Trad 35m
18 Cantata

Good line up right side of D Minor Pinnacle. Start below bulging crack on arete right of D Minor.

  1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge.

  2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974

Trad 35m, 2
19 Cantata Variant Start

The little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

Trad 30m

Showing all 14 routes.

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