Routes in Uncle Charlie for selected grade

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start as for Punks up the leaning diagonal, but traverse off R at the second bolt to chains on the arête. The first bolt is very high and a committing clip for those at this grade.

Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December). Start at the bottom R side of the Punks wall. It's the line just L of the arete with the carrot bolt.

The easiest way to sample the awesome front face of Uncle Charlie - if you like grade 25 traversing, that is. If you wish to climb this during nesting season (August to December), please approach via Uncle Charlie's Right Nostril, not the Left.

Start as for PBS.

1. 15m (21) As for PBS, but belay as soon as you hit the chimney (just beside the peregrine's nest...)

2. 30m (25) R, and up short sickle/corner to gain the R nostril. R to piton, then hard undercling R to rest. Continue traversing R into India, past a bonus bolt in Ethiopia.

Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!

Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.

The pencil thin crack (originally with a manky fixed wire, now with a bolt). After the crack sneak out left and finish up Virginia. One bolt plus trad. Start 5m L of Spasm.

Climb nearly all of Yes Please past it's bolt but instead of escaping left under the roof, do a move right and continue up the wall past two more bolts. There's a stance left of the last bolt, from here traverse right along the horizontal break that leads to the last headwall of Spasm. Finish up this (sideways #7 rock in pocket) to glory. Offers superb sustained climbing if head right from last bolt to undercling on spasm and past both it's dynos. 3 bolts plus a handful of wires (or small-med cams).

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though).

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.