Node in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating.

Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.

1. 35m (20) Up long slabby crack to beneath a short steep corner. Make sure you set good directional pro here as the crux wires can be susceptible to outwards force. Cruxy moves up the corner to a ledge.

2. 15m (20) The intimidating steep crack through the bulge above climbs beautifully. You'll reach a cave with a rap anchor (50m to the ground).

3. 50m (-) Don't bother with this, rap off instead. Up mossiness then into a polished chimney which leads to Flinders Lane.