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Nodes in Skyline Walls

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Node
Skyline Walls

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Skyline Walls Area

20 Piece of Shit

Start as for F. Traverse L past F and up the Intransience face (see the Cecilia Wall area).

19 Frontispiece

Start at the far L end of Skyline Walls about 20m L of Copyright. Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the Intransience face.

19 R Trademark

Start just R of F. The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.

23 Thin Air

Start 1m R of T. Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face.

26 Fists of Fury

Bouldery, intense climbing on underclings left of Exodus II. Start on left side of wall beneath right-trending crack weakness, or alternatively 1m right of this. Boulder up to fixed wire in roof, surmount hanging 'slab' and undercling rightwards into easier territory. Basically a 10 move boulder problem. Bring your biceps.

26 Exodus lI

Well chalked line left of Copyright. Climbs like an overhung limestone power route. Boulder into the line and onwards via obvious double-undercling crux (and bolt) to a horizontal break on the left. Take a breath, then easier face climbing to the top.

27 Exodus 2.5

At the top of the crux of Exodus II, break right to a 2nd bolt, then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

26 Mass Exodus

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

V5 Outrageous Coincidences

R to L boulder traverse

V5 Outrageous Coincidences (Exodus Finish)

R to L traverse starting on the obvious jug pocket and mono. Finish as for start of Exodus, the high jug.

26 Copyright Direct

Takes the line immediately right of Exodus II and left of Copyright. Boulder start to underclings (common theme here), then left to gain base of thin crack, and up. A more sustained version of Exodus II.

22 Copyright

An exhausting undertaking up the major line on the wall (left-trending crack). Once graded 20! Steeply left to left leaning flake and poor rest. Step left then up.

19 Bit Torrent

Start as for Copyright and continue up crack direct to top half of Bootleg.

19 Bootleg

Start just R of Copyright. Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the thread to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bit Torrent is better.

16 Boot Off

After the bouldery start of Bootleg, continue up wall right of that route. Some poor rock and gear.

23 Revolution Rock

Start 10m down R of Copyright in small gully. Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left and up to an old wad of cord to lower off. There is also a few more FHs 2-3m R of this line - anyone know what this is?

24 Revolution Rock Low Start

Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets.

21 Rasputin

Located on the level down and right of the Exodus ledge. Starts up poorly protected corner with hard climbing and poor rock to ledge. Continue up corner to roof, then exit right past bulge and then L to finish up arete.

23 Clash

Starts just right of Rasputin. Short problem past ancient fixed wire. Climb groove to the wire, then using a flake, up to roof and onwards to ledge. A good anchor can be found on the wall above this or there are chains at the top of Tres Hard.

25 I'm a Mess

Climb the faint groove past bolt (FH) to gritty, grey roof. Traverse right across this on slopers to jugs, then up final headwall. Fiddly pro.

25 Tres Hard

Starts right of I'm A Mess. Up faint groove to sharp pockets (FH), then stretch right into base of flared crack weakness and follow this to chains at top. Powerful.

25 Playing With A Different Sex

Starts 2m right of Tres Hard and climbs seam/crack weakness to hanging slab. Join the dots up the slab, then up easier grey tower to finish. A high side runner in Tres Hard was the only gear in the first 3/4 of the route on the first ascent. Retrobolted with Roland's permission, 3 bolts plus trad gear.

11 Freckled Duck

Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of Tres Hard.

24 Guns of Brixton

Further right along the ledge are two prominent chalked lines easily identified by their limestone-like appearance of large pockets and underclings. This route starts 1m left of On High and climbs less travelled territory to shallow corner. Joins On High near the top.

23 On High

Well chalked bouldery start to large undercling, then up into groove, finishing above little roof. Well protected and classic climbing.

25 Non-Stop

Right of On High are two large pockets on the lip of a roof. Up to pockets, then over bulge and up leftwards through more pockets to layback flake. Continue directly.

25 Cuddly Fat

Just right of Non Stop at slight corner. Layback up vague corner then left across good holds to an obvious pocket. Reachy crux via a dubious hold, then left to the hollow jug and finish up crack weakness.

19 Hassan

Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.

14 Next Horizon

3m right of Hassan is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

16 Cream Puff

Start 2m R of NH. Grotty corner.

24 Slip, Slop, Slap

Start 5m R of NH where the wall bulges considerably. Boulder up past 2 bolts and some trad placements.

26 Blast Off

Starts 5m right of Slip Slop Slap. Stick clip 1st rusty bolt (place back up wire just above it) then boulder strenuously up through initial bulge onto face. Try not to look at the state of the 2nd bolt as you make reachy moves past it. Gain lip of roof and stretch out right into cleaner rock. Ignore the old fixed RP. Belay possible on block above.

24 Smithereens

3m right of Blast Off and 5m left of black rock. Stick clip runner to start, then boulder into crack above.

Upper Tier
22 Moins Hard

The next 3 routes are on the upper level, access by scrambling down gully from the top to fixed rope and plank. Directly above Tres Hard is this slightly less hard crack.

25 Wastemaster

Located on small wall above Non Stop, a few metres left of the descent scramble. Climbs crimpy wall past two bolts and trad placements veering left near the top past a poor pocket.

26 Pull My Strings

Located a few metres right of the descent scramble, about 7m R of Wastemaster. Stick clip the bolt then up the wall.

19 R Into Darkness

The looming arete in the gully climbers left of Starless Buttress, covered mostly in Lichen. Line goes direct up the right side of the arete, find whatever gear you can. Committing final move up overhang to jugs.

Showing all 39 nodes.

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