Routes in The Watchtower Faces for selected grade

A good roof but rarely climbed. Apparently requires sliders, small cams may work.

Line left of Able-bodied, Boulder over small roof as for that route to get gear in the obvious flake then head left on little pockets to thin break and gear. Straight up past 2 ring bolts. More gear and a tricky sequence getting established on the slab upper wall and then to anchor on right.

Might be a tad undergraded...

Start at the 3rd belay of Watchtower Crack then take the steep bulge 3m L of p4 of WC. Approach up any one of Watchtower Crack, Stumpy Tail or Arachnus, or rap in from the top.

What is life if not a gamble?

As for Tjuringa, move left at the first break. Straight up the streak until level with the Tjuringa flake. Left again into the final few metres of Bad Cheques.

The smooth wall right of the 'Tynee Tips' arete past a bolt. Finishes as for the traverse of 'In Lieu'.

Solo the slab to the right of In Lieu, to arrive at the break below the carrot. A few mighty hard moves get you past the carrot, utilising the pocket.

Some have bailed after finding the carrot too hard to clip... but it turns out that isn't the crux!

A bit contrived but fun climbing, steep and juggy. Up Cruel Britannia to the bolt out left, past this and left just above the lip to a long move over the blank section. Easy for the grade if you go to the rest on Cruel Britannia, and hard if you don't.

Armless. Start at right-most end of Cat Cracker ledge, just left of old conifer. Burly flake to first roof, R (into The Conception) and up to main roof, R again for 2m to roof flake.

The climb originally started up the easy, thin diagonal crack 1 metre right of Manx, now Manx RHV, but it is now done via the initial wall of Hard Nipples, which makes the climb more consistent. The climb originally went free up the diagonal crack and then aided up to and through the roof. The old pin can be easily backed up with a small cam.

Link-up straightens out the line, start up Indoctrination past its bolt and continue straight up into Socialist Working Class Solidarity past its 2nd bolt. The difficulty then eases off about 10 grades for the remaining 75% of the route.

Something of a mirror image of Indoctrination. Desperately hard.

Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.

The thin undercut seam above the cave left of the start of Watchtower Crack gets a star despite the fiddly gear to start and the pathetic rap sling. The very bold second pitch is rarely done and is written up separately (Pumping Part II), in the Right Watchtower Face section.

One of the most outstanding routes at Arapiles. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, passing one carrot and a fixed hanger where the piton used to be. The old piton on the second pitch came out in the hands of some unsuspecting climbers and completely broke the placement when it did. Thus it was replaced with a bolt which makes it much more tame. Both grade 25 pitches are graded to take into account seriousness.

1. 25m (25) Up the face then left and up to flake. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

2. 15m (25) Jug out roof past carrot and fixed hanger and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay in little cave.

3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

A direct finish on Bad Cheques, once you get to the obvious pocket before going right, head up left boldly via delicate slab moves to the hope of gear, which is marginal if you find it. once you get to the overlap head hard right to the Bad Cheques anchor.